Alibro
Well-Known Member
Will you have a go yourself or send it to a garage?Drove to work cursing the hippo.
Think my clutch failure denial has just worn off
weemac
Well-Known Member
Going to try it myself. Took inspiration from your guide, coincidentally.
Need to ease it through another week then I've got the entire bank holiday to tear it down.
Wish me luck. Will post the normal photo-fest on the project thread.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Good luck.Going to try it myself. Took inspiration from your guide, coincidentally.
Need to ease it through another week then I've got the entire bank holiday to tear it down.
Wish me luck. Will post the normal photo-fest on the project thread.
If you take your time it isn't too bad. For me the biggies were getting the IRD off and getting the gearbox out of the hole. Taking off the subframe makes the IRD easier and dropping the engine further than you expect got the gearbox out.
Have you an alignment tool for the new clutch?
weemac
Well-Known Member
Good luck.
If you take your time it isn't too bad. For me the biggies were getting the IRD off and getting the gearbox out of the hole. Taking off the subframe makes the IRD easier and dropping the engine further than you expect got the gearbox out.
Have you an alignment tool for the new clutch?
Nice one. Definitely planning to take my time. Want to clean and rust treat some of the areas I can't see or work on with the gearbox in place.
No alignment tool. Like you, I'll have to fashion one. Did consider getting hold of a battered mainshaft and cutting the splined end off to make a tool but reckon I'm over thinking it. Your method obviously worked well enough.
I did like your unbolting the ball joints from the wishbone to preserve the joints. Having just pulled and replaced the track rod ends, I have no inclination to fight those tapered fittings again anytime soon
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Ermmm, I didn't unbolt the ball joints at all, I unbolted the wishbone from the subframe at the front which is just one long bolt and the two bolts holding up the rear support and left them hanging from the wheel hubs supported with bungies.Nice one. Definitely planning to take my time. Want to clean and rust treat some of the areas I can't see or work on with the gearbox in place.
No alignment tool. Like you, I'll have to fashion one. Did consider getting hold of a battered mainshaft and cutting the splined end off to make a tool but reckon I'm over thinking it. Your method obviously worked well enough.
I did like your unbolting the ball joints from the wishbone to preserve the joints. Having just pulled and replaced the track rod ends, I have no inclination to fight those tapered fittings again anytime soon
weemac
Well-Known Member
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Bought another one. Td4. Total F1s is now 7!
Alibro
Well-Known Member
I can hear the screams of "SACRILEGE" all the way from the Trattors section.
Not that they care what goes on Freelanders but the thought of a black oval even existing.
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
On the subject of the M47 stat, not so much what I've done today, but more what a bit of a hero sorted for me today...
The coolant rail o-ring had been leaking for some time, and the original stat failed a long time ago. I'd been puttng both jobs off for some time given the difficulty. However, it had become pressing as I was loosing coolant and I have an iminent Lands End to John O'Groats run coming up. The R5 mod on it's own wouldn't cut it, so cue the legend...
Five hours of graft with undertray bolts that wouldn't shift. Original stat removed, cover replaced (with standard bolts put back rather than the difficult hex bolts).
I now have a toastie leak free freelander running well.
We were a bit concerned that the replacement o-ring wouldn't be up to the job, but I can confirm it's okay.
Moving the engine about was a strugle but my knowledgable friend was on the case.
Original stat housing with stat removed...
Replacing the hex bolts on the stat with standard bolts made a huge difference when putting it all back together.
Said hero grafting like a good un...
The coolant rail o-ring had been leaking for some time, and the original stat failed a long time ago. I'd been puttng both jobs off for some time given the difficulty. However, it had become pressing as I was loosing coolant and I have an iminent Lands End to John O'Groats run coming up. The R5 mod on it's own wouldn't cut it, so cue the legend...
Five hours of graft with undertray bolts that wouldn't shift. Original stat removed, cover replaced (with standard bolts put back rather than the difficult hex bolts).
I now have a toastie leak free freelander running well.
We were a bit concerned that the replacement o-ring wouldn't be up to the job, but I can confirm it's okay.
Moving the engine about was a strugle but my knowledgable friend was on the case.
Original stat housing with stat removed...
Replacing the hex bolts on the stat with standard bolts made a huge difference when putting it all back together.
Said hero grafting like a good un...
Attachments
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
It's amazing just how much faster re-assembly is, once a proper spanner can be used on the stat bolts.
You'll enjoy having a leak free cooling system.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
where did you get these from? Are they gel overlays or?
Removed propshaft today for replacing bearings and general inspection. Smartest thing I've done this time is spray some wd40 yesterday on them bolts.
Also, my 38 quid ToolTronix Electric Impact Wrench saved me some trouble and muscle soreness, took me less than 30 mins head to tail.
Also, my 38 quid ToolTronix Electric Impact Wrench saved me some trouble and muscle soreness, took me less than 30 mins head to tail.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Dropped Mrs Grumpy off at court this morning (jury service). Most journeys into/around town we won't see a Freelander, especially an F1 and especially a 3 door F1 - most over here are V6 or TD4 5 doors.
Anyway, today as I'm approaching the lights at the biggest intersection on the journey, there's a 3 door F1 parked up on the other side of the road. Looked in decent nick, but then spotted the cop car parked behind it, hub cap from another car lying by it and a few other bits of wreckage!
On my way back nobody was with the car, so stopped and had a look over it. The car (monocoque) looked real good, no signs of a major impact, but windscreen shattered in 3 places, airbags deployed and the front number plate was out of alignment and all the letters/numbers had been smudged/rubbed off. It had obviously hit another vehicle pretty hard, dunno if the screen was of something impacting it or the stresses through the body.
Hope everyone was OK, but 1 less Freelander on the roads here I did a stalk on it and its a 2002 1.8 ES imported from the UK in 2004.
Anyway, today as I'm approaching the lights at the biggest intersection on the journey, there's a 3 door F1 parked up on the other side of the road. Looked in decent nick, but then spotted the cop car parked behind it, hub cap from another car lying by it and a few other bits of wreckage!
On my way back nobody was with the car, so stopped and had a look over it. The car (monocoque) looked real good, no signs of a major impact, but windscreen shattered in 3 places, airbags deployed and the front number plate was out of alignment and all the letters/numbers had been smudged/rubbed off. It had obviously hit another vehicle pretty hard, dunno if the screen was of something impacting it or the stresses through the body.
Hope everyone was OK, but 1 less Freelander on the roads here
I did a stalk on it and its a 2002 1.8 ES imported from the UK in 2004.
