Swann36
Active Member
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GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Hope its a quick and cheap fix.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Don't get me wrong, Rave is a great resource, but why does it just state the bleedin obvious so often.
"Release finisher from 6 retaining clips" - fair enough, its great to know there's 6 of them and where they are, but how do you release the finisher from them? Its just force, pulling the finisher away, but it would be nice to know that, rather than hope you're doing it right!
Same with "Release seat belt retaining strap" - how!
Anyway, I got the belt off the parts car, but its very dirty and moldy, so I've given it a good scrub and its drying in front of the heat pump.
I had started this yesterday, but stopped as I didn't have a big enough torx bit for the bottom bolt. I've got a set of 'female' torx sockets, but not male, just little ones from a screw driver set. After the warning from @htr about rounding/stripping them, I took off to the parts store today to get the right one. They only did sets at $40 and cash is tight atm so tried the local general hardware sheds with the same outcome. So pointless trip, but I did have a nice chat to a couple in a D3 I parked next to
Anyway, I gambled on an allen key and it worked OK. Hope it does the same when I come to the install it!
"Release finisher from 6 retaining clips" - fair enough, its great to know there's 6 of them and where they are, but how do you release the finisher from them? Its just force, pulling the finisher away, but it would be nice to know that, rather than hope you're doing it right!
Same with "Release seat belt retaining strap" - how!
Anyway, I got the belt off the parts car, but its very dirty and moldy, so I've given it a good scrub and its drying in front of the heat pump.
I had started this yesterday, but stopped as I didn't have a big enough torx bit for the bottom bolt. I've got a set of 'female' torx sockets, but not male, just little ones from a screw driver set. After the warning from @htr about rounding/stripping them, I took off to the parts store today to get the right one. They only did sets at $40 and cash is tight atm so tried the local general hardware sheds with the same outcome. So pointless trip, but I did have a nice chat to a couple in a D3 I parked next to
Anyway, I gambled on an allen key and it worked OK. Hope it does the same when I come to the install it!
htr
Well-Known Member
Second job for the weekend. My heater was not putting out a high level of heat. I'd fitted a new radio aerial lead a while back and thought I'd 'disturbed' the heater cables... So I had another look at the the heater controls - couldn't find anything amiss. So I put it all back together. Do you think I could find the 4 screws that secured the heater control panel - only 2 were there. I hunted around - thought gremlins had carried them off... or I was going bonkers [which is always on the cards!] . So I I put the 2 in I had and was getting ready to put the face plate on - I moved my work light and found it wouldn't stand upright. Guess what was on the magnetic base! 20 minutes! Sigh.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
If only you'd listened to htr in the first place.Don't get me wrong, Rave is a great resource, but why does it just state the bleedin obvious so often.
View attachment 185436
"Release finisher from 6 retaining clips" - fair enough, its great to know there's 6 of them and where they are, but how do you release the finisher from them? Its just force, pulling the finisher away, but it would be nice to know that, rather than hope you're doing it right!
Same with "Release seat belt retaining strap" - how!
Anyway, I got the belt off the parts car, but its very dirty and moldy, so I've given it a good scrub and its drying in front of the heat pump.
I had started this yesterday, but stopped as I didn't have a big enough torx bit for the bottom bolt. I've got a set of 'female' torx sockets, but not male, just little ones from a screw driver set. After the warning from @htr about rounding/stripping them, I took off to the parts store today to get the right one. They only did sets at $40 and cash is tight atm so tried the local general hardware sheds with the same outcome. So pointless trip, but I did have a nice chat to a couple in a D3 I parked next to
Anyway, I gambled on an allen key and it worked OK. Hope it does the same when I come to the install it!
Swann36
Active Member
I already have a front passenger door lock activator that is kaput (i can open & lock it from the inside , new lock arriving today) and yesterday i noticed that the drivers side rear door wouldn't lock at all, I can't move the handle or lock "button" ..ouch ...so after reading threads here and on freel.. this morning I've bought 2 more lock motors off amazon (being both rear doors) ..as it seems to me they must be close to all going kaput .. I'm looking now for a drivers door one but might wait till i've had a go at fixing front passenger one before ordering the final doors ..I went for the 30 odd £ solutions as from reading it seems the LR stealers ones go kaput just as fast unless I've missed something and figure that I'll need to learn how to do this again and again in the next 10years or so ..
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
Did a cursory checck on the TD4 coolant today following a full flush and engine oil cooler change. I noticed that some fresh oil has appeared in the coolant expansion bottle. I'm not sure if it's residue left from the recently replaced cooler or if I've miss-diagnosed and it's something else. So prepping for the worst I'm just wondering, are the IRD fluid and auto box fluid coolers easy to replace? There seems to be little info on either.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
When I rebuilt my IRD I had a dickens of a job getting the old oil cooler off. I tried levering it off and turning it but bits just bent. In the end I left it on and let the guys who did the bearings sort it!
I didn't have Rave at the time, dunno if it says anything in there about how to get it off.
Rank Amatuer
Well-Known Member
Valeted my FL1 Sport with the intention of selling it soon.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Mine had oil scum floating on the coolant for years after I did the oil cooler. I still periodically remove the tank for cleaning, small traces of oil still appear occasionally.
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
I've had a bit of a look. The IRD cooler looks a bit of a pain. The auto box one looks pretty easy though. Hopefully I won't need to do either though.
I'm hoping this is the case with mine. I'll monitor it over the next few weeks. The water certainly looks tip top.
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
Coolant bottle off and cleaned following oil contamination. Leaking stat housing prepped for some sealant in an attempt to stop the o-ring leak. Top hose removed in readiness to fit the R5 stat. How on earth it'll go in the narrower auto TD4 hose though I do not know! That's for tomorrow morning.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
It's a tight fit, but it does fit, eventually.
Yesterday, I changed my centre silencer (TD4 2001). It was starting to unpeel its outer skin and there were a couple of small black pinholes appearing. I had a look online and gave myself a fright with the cost of a genuine one (due to the cat being part of the same assembly - a stroke of genius, that)! I then looked on eBay and ruled out the £68 one as it had no cat in the cat can at all, likewise other cheap ones which do appear to have a cat, but not a decent quality "three way" one like the original.
In the end, I went to these people:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133114587043
who were incredibly helpful, and did me a one-off 5" round "straight-through" silencer, 24" long in 304 stainless for £47 delivered.
I cut out the old one, saving the angled bracing plates, and welded the new one in. The pipes on the OE Landrover system appear to be low-grade 409 stainless. I used mild steel wire because that's all I had, so I expect the welds to rust in a few years, but I wouldn't have expected a cheap eBay system to last more than a few years either and at least I was able to keep the OE cat. If I was doing the job again, I might have made the new silencer a bit longer again, (say 26") so that the ends of the pipes pushed an inch or so into the perforated tube down the centre of it to keep the assembly a bit straighter, but overall, I'm pleased with the result and there's no discernible difference in noise from it.
In the end, I went to these people:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133114587043
who were incredibly helpful, and did me a one-off 5" round "straight-through" silencer, 24" long in 304 stainless for £47 delivered.
I cut out the old one, saving the angled bracing plates, and welded the new one in. The pipes on the OE Landrover system appear to be low-grade 409 stainless. I used mild steel wire because that's all I had, so I expect the welds to rust in a few years, but I wouldn't have expected a cheap eBay system to last more than a few years either and at least I was able to keep the OE cat. If I was doing the job again, I might have made the new silencer a bit longer again, (say 26") so that the ends of the pipes pushed an inch or so into the perforated tube down the centre of it to keep the assembly a bit straighter, but overall, I'm pleased with the result and there's no discernible difference in noise from it.
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ian mitchell
Well-Known Member
gave mine a once over for the mot at the end of month, found both track rod end`s I fitted
last year from s**t part had grease leaking from them,both of the rings had popped off letting the grease leak out.
managed to get the ring`s back on for now,and cleaned off excess grease,will look for some better ones later.
last year from s**t part
had grease leaking from them,both of the rings had popped off letting the grease leak out.managed to get the ring`s back on for now,and cleaned off excess grease,will look for some better ones later.
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
A semi sucessful day. After a battle getting the R5 stat into the TD4 auto top hose and finding the engine heating up quick and staying bang on the centre of the gauge I was very pleased, until I saw the rate that water was coming out of the coolant rail to stat housing joint. Bum.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Sorry to hear that the easy route didn't work out. I guess either coolant rail or stat has to come off for new o ring. Dunno which is worse to do. Well worth trying though. Guess I was extra lucky and the sealant made a new o ring.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Dropped my Nikon camera photographing spares to ebay!! Took me 4 hours to strip and repair the lens mechanism. God those screws are tiny.....
