Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
funny how your legs aren't quite the same as your avatar picture in real lifeGlamorous? Aww shucks
Was a good day and a pleasure to help!
With the help of my glamorous assistant @callisr and a couple of attempts at the scrappers I got the inside stripped of anything worth saving and got the body lifted off
View attachment 148020
dam, they look really good with the body removed
come and take the body of mine would u please , oh and drop a new turbo in , will even buy the cake , snigger
will get my coat ,before i get sworn at , lol
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
Getting the body off is usually the easy bit you just cut off the fourteen securing bolts drive it gingerly to the scrappers and get them to lift it offdam, they look really good with the body removed
come and take the body of mine would u please , oh and drop a new turbo in , will even buy the cake , snigger
will get my coat ,before i get sworn at , lol
It's not really in any fit state to reattach though 
callisr
Well-Known Member
funny how your legs aren't quite the same as your avatar picture in real life
They are........it’s just that I was so excited to rip into the disco I forgot to epilady!
Replaced the R/O/S window frame. Cracking job done I have to say and I'm particularly pleased with my fabricated 1/4-light retaining bracket, which I knocked up from 1mm galvanised (luckily nobody else will ever see it). All channels on the replacement frame now cleaned off, Hammerite smoothed and internally wax-oiled, so should be good for a couple of years at least.
That being said...the snag!
Guess what? There appears to have been a change in design (or fitting tolerances) between Y and '03 which I hadn't anticipated. When it came to re-fitting the outer rubber door cap, all the cutaways are off by 5mm. This leaves three great holes for water to pour straight in :-(
I'm planning on retrieving the cap from the donor door, but I recall seeing its owner rip it off with some gusto, so at least the end rubber flanges will be damaged. Next alternative would be silicone sealing I guess.
It was all going so ****** well too!
That being said...the snag!
Guess what? There appears to have been a change in design (or fitting tolerances) between Y and '03 which I hadn't anticipated. When it came to re-fitting the outer rubber door cap, all the cutaways are off by 5mm. This leaves three great holes for water to pour straight in :-(
I'm planning on retrieving the cap from the donor door, but I recall seeing its owner rip it off with some gusto, so at least the end rubber flanges will be damaged. Next alternative would be silicone sealing I guess.
It was all going so ****** well too!
Do you have another one in the front to keep you dry getting to the one in the back
got a few bits done today
removed front passenger side strut
fitted new drop links both sides
found a fuel leak on the FBH plastic line, ordered a new brass coupling
removed one of the old turbo intercooler hoses
replaced a broken jubilee clip on the turbos horizontal pipe
filled in areas that were hidden behind panels with dinotrol
last picture, tested top front wishbones , was very surprised there’s no movement on the bushes, will keep an eye on them or later in the year may just drop a new set on there when i fit all new discs , pads and brake hoses
so will be concentrating on the passenger side to get everything back in, drivers side now at last finished with a new strut / drop link and valve block fitted
getting there one day at a time, lol
removed front passenger side strut
fitted new drop links both sides
found a fuel leak on the FBH plastic line, ordered a new brass coupling
removed one of the old turbo intercooler hoses
replaced a broken jubilee clip on the turbos horizontal pipe
filled in areas that were hidden behind panels with dinotrol
last picture, tested top front wishbones , was very surprised there’s no movement on the bushes, will keep an eye on them or later in the year may just drop a new set on there when i fit all new discs , pads and brake hoses
so will be concentrating on the passenger side to get everything back in, drivers side now at last finished with a new strut / drop link and valve block fitted
getting there one day at a time, lol
Spot1
Well-Known Member
Go on, just rub it in!
The T-Max arrived thank you! I've just painted the relay can with hammerite to stop the corrosion in it's tracks. Now just gotta get me a disco to attach it to....
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
I could have done you a deal on a late 300tdi auto before I ebayed itGo on, just rub it in!
The T-Max arrived thank you! I've just painted the relay can with hammerite to stop the corrosion in it's tracks. Now just gotta get me a disco to attach it to....
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Went for MOT and passed no advisories cost £45 and 3 bottles of cider as he was looking for the cat
First post for ages, moved house in Feb and been busy
cost £45 and 3 bottles of cider as he was looking for the cat First post for ages, moved house in Feb and been busy
brian47
Well-Known Member
Put the winter wheels away 'til next November/December. While it was up on a jack I got under it to feel for a certain little spigot. Well, that's saved me 300 quid or so, it seems that I don't have the CDL internals.
General maintenance, as you do or should do. Everything seems OK, "at the time of testing".
General maintenance, as you do or should do. Everything seems OK, "at the time of testing".
Nige4927
Active Member
Had an issue with vague wandering steering, got the wife to waggle the steering wheel while i got underneath, Drag link end is worn so ordered one of those.. then checking the UJ's on the steering column and the UJ that attaches to the shaft on the steering box was loose.. Tightened that and all good there, still quite a bit of play so I adjusted the steering box itself using the adjuster screw, this had not been moved in years and took some doing but managed to loosen the lock nut and added a 1/4 turn as recommended and wow what a difference... now she is almost perfect, drives like a completely different car. will be spot on when the new Drag link end arrives..
Nige
Nige
Did some work on the 300 TDI for its MOT which is up at the end of the month.
removed the old rear drop links and antiroll bar.
Angle grinders are great things - I did try and undo all the nuts and bolts - no joy.
ordered new/better antiroll bar, some new drop link bolts and some antiroll bar bracket bolts.
Reassembly will be easier than dismantling.
The V8 has very wet floors, So as we have some very warm weather doors and windows opened and the carpets are propped up for drying out.
I am not sure if this 3.9 has 14CUX or Gems, I think its 14CUX, going to have a look now and try and find ECU Mate connector.
ECU Mate will hopefully tell me what's going on with spluttering on Petrol, spluttering is a bit random, sometimes it starts great and ticks over perfect, next time the EML flickers like a mad thing and its very spluttery, I switch it off take key out, reset alarm and it starts great and ticks over.
into the truck to find connector.
removed the old rear drop links and antiroll bar.
Angle grinders are great things - I did try and undo all the nuts and bolts - no joy.
ordered new/better antiroll bar, some new drop link bolts and some antiroll bar bracket bolts.
Reassembly will be easier than dismantling.
The V8 has very wet floors, So as we have some very warm weather doors and windows opened and the carpets are propped up for drying out.
I am not sure if this 3.9 has 14CUX or Gems, I think its 14CUX, going to have a look now and try and find ECU Mate connector.
ECU Mate will hopefully tell me what's going on with spluttering on Petrol, spluttering is a bit random, sometimes it starts great and ticks over perfect, next time the EML flickers like a mad thing and its very spluttery, I switch it off take key out, reset alarm and it starts great and ticks over.
into the truck to find connector.
