Na they still leak but it takes away the droning noise from the roof rack lol
Na they still leak but it takes away the droning noise from the roof rack lol
discodrivercumbria
Well-Known Member
front wheels off ready to replace front springs and shocks, saw a bit of rust on inner arches so took the plastic inner wing trays off, bloody thing is gonna need welding on the inner wings!! 2 pin holes for now on passenger side, drivers side needs a clean and paint up, absaloute bags of ****e Landrovers, ive waxoyled the fooking thing every year ive had it, chassis as good as new, so not decided yet whether to fit springs and shocks, took running boards off aswell to freshen up, may just take nudge bar too, take full mats out, dog guard and load liner and fook it off, that would be the end of the green oval for me,!!!!
neilly
Well-Known Member
brian47
Well-Known Member
Just wondering, did you get one from the GOS website and how you got on with the purchase? I'd be interested to know what they're like to deal with.
brian47
Well-Known Member
It's truly amazing what you can achieve when you have the right tools.
Following my attempt last week or so to change the auxiliary drive belt tensioner which failed miserably, I bought myself a thin-wall multipoint 14 mm socket, actually it's a plug spanner socket for a motorcycle but don't hold that against me.
This time the job went like a dream, get the tools out, change the tensioner and put everything away again, all in about an hour.
I'd say that it was on the point of needing to be changed, the bearings in the idler wheel were begining to rumble when I spun it by hand.
One point to note, the bolt in the centre of the idler wheel is a left-hand thread, but the bolt holding the tensioner assembly to the engine block was a standard right-hand thread, unless my socket set was telling me porkies.
I might be getting a bit too long in the tooth for scrambling about in the gutter under the Disco, but I can still fix things standing up.
Following my attempt last week or so to change the auxiliary drive belt tensioner which failed miserably, I bought myself a thin-wall multipoint 14 mm socket, actually it's a plug spanner socket for a motorcycle but don't hold that against me.
This time the job went like a dream, get the tools out, change the tensioner and put everything away again, all in about an hour.
I'd say that it was on the point of needing to be changed, the bearings in the idler wheel were begining to rumble when I spun it by hand.
One point to note, the bolt in the centre of the idler wheel is a left-hand thread, but the bolt holding the tensioner assembly to the engine block was a standard right-hand thread, unless my socket set was telling me porkies.
I might be getting a bit too long in the tooth for scrambling about in the gutter under the Disco, but I can still fix things standing up.
Last edited:
Spot1
Well-Known Member
What's your plans for that @Marmaduke ?
Looks like it's got a couple of nice extras on it.... like that centre dash console....
Looks like it's got a couple of nice extras on it.... like that centre dash console....
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
I only bought it cos I'm to tight to spend 45 quid on the circuit board that controls the windowsWhat's your plans for that @Marmaduke ?
Looks like it's got a couple of nice extras on it.... like that centre dash console....
strip it and scrap it but I think that console might be going in mine
Spot1
Well-Known Member
but I think that console might be going in mine
Bugger.....
Is that a split charge system below it?
Bugger.....
Is that a split charge system below it?
yep, same system i installed , great bit of kit
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T-Max-Du...013621&hash=item43ea6b4264:g:9Q0AAOSwd0BVzFMw
Spot1
Well-Known Member
That’s on my watch list! Thank you @gstuart . That is unless @Marmaduke is selling that one?
ur very welcome , u never know if u throw in cake as part of the deal he might sell,
few pics of my T max installed
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
Make me an offer, I'm not a greedy man
if you lived closer you could have had the pair of mayhoosive batteries it's connected to as well
GJ1
Active Member
Replaced a sidelight bulb on my face-lift D2... what a faff....
1) Remove headlamp protector (dealer fit when new)
2) struggle with rivnut on wing as it is loose just spins so you can’t undo the screw retaining the protector.
3) remember you have to remove grille
4) remove other headlamp protector to allow you to remove grille
5) struggle with both spinning rivnuts on 2nd protector.
6) undo screw A and B on headlamp
7) scrap stage 6 as both screws turn but don’t undo
8) undo star bolts behind screw A and B to remove as a unit
9) realise that the super-glue repair you did previously on the lower bracket by the grill has seeming gone everywhere, therefore end up breaking bracket again.
10) remove headlamp to discover it’s totally covered up with wax oil following an under seal treatment and struggle to remove the cover for the bulb.
11) access bulb holder, to discover that the heat from bulb has distorted both the bulb holder and headlamp, doing a good job of fusing the two together.
12) eventually remove holder and bulb
13) replace with new.
14) check bulb works
15) to quote Haynes “assembly is the reverse of disassembly”
Cost of bulb £0.95
1) Remove headlamp protector (dealer fit when new)
2) struggle with rivnut on wing as it is loose just spins so you can’t undo the screw retaining the protector.
3) remember you have to remove grille
4) remove other headlamp protector to allow you to remove grille
5) struggle with both spinning rivnuts on 2nd protector.
6) undo screw A and B on headlamp
7) scrap stage 6 as both screws turn but don’t undo
8) undo star bolts behind screw A and B to remove as a unit
9) realise that the super-glue repair you did previously on the lower bracket by the grill has seeming gone everywhere, therefore end up breaking bracket again.
10) remove headlamp to discover it’s totally covered up with wax oil following an under seal treatment and struggle to remove the cover for the bulb.
11) access bulb holder, to discover that the heat from bulb has distorted both the bulb holder and headlamp, doing a good job of fusing the two together.
12) eventually remove holder and bulb
13) replace with new.
14) check bulb works
15) to quote Haynes “assembly is the reverse of disassembly”
Cost of bulb £0.95
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
I like your thinking, pm me your address and I'll try to get it posted tomorrowSay £45? Cover the cost of your window control board?
Spot1
Well-Known Member
I like your thinking, pm me your address and I'll try to get it posted tomorrow
PM sent. Thank you!
