@brian47

Just been and checked, looks and feels like a std 14mm 12 sided socket like this one pictured, from halfords advanced range. But being a landy, no guarantees yours is the same..LOL

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Cheers
 
You do realise it’s left hand thread and a 14mm fits

I'm aware that the bolt in the middle of the tensioner pulley is left-hand thread, but that isn't the bolt I'm talking about. The one I'm having trouble with is the bolt which holds the entire tensioner assembly to the engine block which is the issue.
 
I'm aware that the bolt in the middle of the tensioner pulley is left-hand thread, but that isn't the bolt I'm talking about. The one I'm having trouble with is the bolt which holds the entire tensioner assembly to the engine block which is the issue.

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I think you are on about the same bolt, still on mine it is a 14mm 12 sided bolt head.

Cheers
 
had a play with the rattle cans, front end tidy up after winter, bloody road salt,, new front fog light fitted, others were totaly fubar,
 

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Stupid rear seat release handle on the top of the rear seat has decided to snap......Damn thing.

Have to ring around the breakers....LOL.

Cheers
 
Bought another one:p, or maybe two :oops: just because I'm to tight to spend 45 quid on the circuit board that controls the electric windows :oops:
 
Well, it’s not my Disco, yet... went to test drive a D2 and was met with “We’re aware of the lights on the dash (3 amigos & HDC) and the drivers seat doesn’t move. There’s a couple of other things too but we’re going to get it in the workshop and sort it before sale”....

Took it for a drive (with caution) and added the drivers window, rear sunroof, fuel flap and remote fob not working, the blade also stayed in the ignition when I removed the fob....:eek:

Overall tho it’s in reasonable condition and the rear chassis is in good condition so let’s see what they say when they phone me in a day or two....
 
Yesterday does it still count ?..........Injector harness. The one on it is about 18months old iv fitted an all makes one made in China let's see how long it lasts. No oil past the o rings or in the loom but the injector connectors all had oil in.
 
gave the turbo actuator a few more turns of preload,

much much much improved response,.. seems it had become, like a lot of things with old age, a little saggy and loose.. . seems the wastegate wasnt quite tight as it is now spot on, possibly even a little bit tighter giving a shred more boost.
 
Used a clay bar on some of the paintwork, followed by polish and wax. Now realise that Java Black is slightly metallic.... only taken me 14 months to work this out....
 
So owned my D2 TD5 for 5 days now and totally in love.. Having given her a good going over i noticed there was a very slight oil leak from the front of the engine somewhere.. Investigating I found the camshaft seal was the culprit,, "see pic if you don't know what that is" I know these are just a push in fit but this was so loose it rattled.. anyway i managed a temp fix by adding an o ring over the old one, nice and snug fit now, i will be ordering a replacement cap to do the job properly though..

I did ask the forum what type of engine i had, but after some research on this cool forum I am pretty sure it either a P15 or P16.. as it has the external fuel return, and a water cooled EGR and 2 vacuum pipes to the EGR actuators. good news.. I have now blanked the EGR and looking forward to seeing the difference.
I am now searching ebay for a decent engine cover to hide the delete :)
Checked the MAF and its spotless, clearly not an original but looks very new.

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open
 
made up a tool to help replace front diff oil seal and used it :D.
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bit of a bugger on a Unimat 4 tho - doesnt like 3.5" stock Alloy bar ;)
 

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