brian47 said:
The only thing that could be damaged by early oil changes is your wallet, Having said that, I change the engine oil and filters every year and the drive train oils every two years. But I am a low mileage user.
Click to expand...

i also replace the oils and filters every year , even if it's only done 2-3k :D
 
No so much 'done on' as 'done with'....

Jump judging at a horse trials:-

JJ.jpg
 
Re bled the brakes !:rolleyes: And wot a P*SS take that was !:mad::mad::mad::mad: Ended up putting 2lt off fluid thru the backs to get ALL the air out :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:
 
replaced both front shock, one had sheared its bottom fixing. Also traced and fixed the annoying oil leak its had over the last year. started with the rocker gasket and then found vacuum pump weeping. removed and replaced the rivets with nut and bolt and all seems dry. for now.....
 
Finally got round to fitting that condenser fan motor. Motor I got off ebay from US was a perfect substitute (even down to the fitting to fix the electrical connector onto the bracket on the fan cage)

Usual complications of rusted-in bolts aside, all went smoothly. Fan spins up nicely if I substitute relay with a bent nail, but not sure how best to test relay itself ....
 
joojar said:
Usual complications of rusted-in bolts aside, all went smoothly. Fan spins up nicely if I substitute relay with a bent nail, but not sure how best to test relay itself ....
Click to expand...

If you know of someone with a nanocom they can trigger the fan to test it.

Cheers
 
neilly said:
If you know of someone with a nanocom they can trigger the fan to test it.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Perfect, I'll ask my local indie to try it next time it's in for something I can't/won't touch.

Got me thinking: I wonder if the "occasional use" duty cycle is what does for these motors. You can imagine if they turned for a few minutes a week, say, that would tend to drive any bits of rust out of the motor before it gets to the point of seizing up.

Wondering now about a little electrical project along these lines
 
joojar said:
Perfect, I'll ask my local indie to try it next time it's in for something I can't/won't touch.

Got me thinking: I wonder if the "occasional use" duty cycle is what does for these motors. You can imagine if they turned for a few minutes a week, say, that would tend to drive any bits of rust out of the motor before it gets to the point of seizing up.

Wondering now about a little electrical project along these lines
Click to expand...

I have heard of a few peeps who connected a switch, to allow them to run the motor as manually.

Cheers
 
Replaced both front hubs, last ones lasted exactly 12 months!
New drive shaft oil seal fitted, cured weeping.
Freed off caliper pins, needed a lot of heat on the caliper brackets for that.
Deglazed front discs, by hand!
Juddering bakes "warped disc syndrome" now cured!
Found new track rod end had failed, again after just 12 months.
Jobs for this week:
Fit new front pads and caliper pins.
Fit new track rod end.
Check rear brakes, replace pads.
210000 miles now.
Shes not really doing too bad, but its bloody knackering heaving the front wheels on/off when doing the hubs!
 
markomate2 said:
Replaced both front hubs, last ones lasted exactly 12 months!
New drive shaft oil seal fitted, cured weeping.
Freed off caliper pins, needed a lot of heat on the caliper brackets for that.
Deglazed front discs, by hand!
Juddering bakes "warped disc syndrome" now cured!
Found new track rod end had failed, again after just 12 months.
Jobs for this week:
Fit new front pads and caliper pins.
Fit new track rod end.
Check rear brakes, replace pads.
210000 miles now.
Shes not really doing too bad, but its bloody knackering heaving the front wheels on/off when doing the hubs!
Click to expand...

What make parts did you use for hubs and TRE mate?

Wheels get a bit heavier each time don't they
 
Fixed the little rivnut in the bracket on the fuel cooler (hopefully) which the bolt holding the acoustic cover screws into.
As you can see from the pic, there's no room to do anything really; can't even get in there with a file to square off the hole to take the replacement type captive nut or anything else, and taking the fuel cooler off the engine just for such a stupid little job seemed to be a total waste of time, apart from which, that's the point at which things start to turn to worms.
I decided to try using some liquid metal type (e)poxy glue to stick the thing in place after degreasing it with some IPA.
Just have to see how it goes.

20170717_144607sml.jpg


And before anybody starts shouting at me, yes, I'm aware that there seems to be a bolt missing from the other mounting point for the fuel cooler bracket on the inlet manifold. I noticed when I finished the job, and to be honest, it hasn't fallen off .... yet.
Famous last words!
 
Started her for the first time in over 2 weeks. She's been parked in a car park all that time.
I pumped the air suspension up to ORM before leaving her, and she stayed up. Really confused as to how the suspension can stay up in ORM for 2 weeks, but drop in a few hours when in normal mode.

Anyhow - she started first time, no thick clouds of black smoke - all working as she should. Was almost surprised.

Actually get to use her for a couple of days this weekend then its back to hire vehicles again for a fortnight. Then I get to drive in convoy with it whilst my business partner drives it down to Devon with a trailer on the back.

Will almost be glad when these few weeks are over and I can go back to driving the disco every day!
 
private penguin said:
I pumped the air suspension up to ORM before leaving her, and she stayed up. Really confused as to how the suspension can stay up in ORM for 2 weeks, but drop in a few hours when in normal mode.
Click to expand...
That's not unheard of. When the bags are in their normal position there can be little cracks in the folds which leak, but in the ORM those fold can straighten out and as they do the little cracks can get sealed.
It's only temporary though, in the end they will fail completely.
 
arranged with the AA to transport my D3 back to Bristol Transmissions, as a speed sensor inside the auto box has failed, was only re-built 4 months ago:(:(
Had to eat humble pie today, as not gearbox at fault but collapsed CV joint on front driveshaft,
Excellent service from Bristol Transmissions and the AA for transportation and fixing promptly. Lesson learned, don't rely on electronic diagnostic at the expense of mechanical investigation first
 
Last edited:
markomate2 said:
Hi I bought these ones this time round!
https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/land-rover...el-bearing-hub-assembly-abs-sensor-tay100060/
Id like to have got the Timken ones but needs must etc!
Cant remember brand for the last ones I bought.
They were not too loose when I removed them, but the 3 Amigos had pinged during the week so I thought Id do them.
TRE
https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/land-rover...p38-track-rod-end-short-ball-joint-qfs000010/
Yes its a bit of a workout!
Click to expand...
Nice 1, mine looks to have had recent hubs when I bought it but I like to keep a mental note of where to look when I inevitably need to replace things :rolleyes:
 
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