Graculus
Well-Known Member
Do you have a link? I have a job for some of those...
Exhaust Heatshield Clips. £3.99 for 20. No idea if that's a good price or not, but needed them today !!
Graculus
Well-Known Member
At that price, I'll manage!
Spent a few hours today replacing the control valve in my aircon compressor, unfortunately it has to be removed completely - unlike the 3.0l which can be done in situ with some parts moved. Start to finish was just over 4 hours including degas / regas and a good 40 min vac. whilst I was putting the ARC pump and charge air hoses back - there's a boost pressure sensor behind the ARC pump, it looks like someone's been there before as the fixing was broken, no big deal to cable tie it up but for anyone contemplating the job, be aware it's there!
I thought I'd taken photos, turns out I'd taken some long videos of the inside of my pocket
Anyway, all 'cool' now - evap goes down to -1 deg. C. on fast cool with high side pressure of ~14.5 Bar@ 22deg. C. previously fast cool temperature actually rose to cabin temp and max pressure was 10.5 Bar. It was better on auto but took some time to cool down and never below 4 deg. C. at the evap.
Spent a few hours today replacing the control valve in my aircon compressor, unfortunately it has to be removed completely - unlike the 3.0l which can be done in situ with some parts moved. Start to finish was just over 4 hours including degas / regas and a good 40 min vac. whilst I was putting the ARC pump and charge air hoses back - there's a boost pressure sensor behind the ARC pump, it looks like someone's been there before as the fixing was broken, no big deal to cable tie it up but for anyone contemplating the job, be aware it's there!
I thought I'd taken photos, turns out I'd taken some long videos of the inside of my pocket
Anyway, all 'cool' now - evap goes down to -1 deg. C. on fast cool with high side pressure of ~14.5 Bar@ 22deg. C. previously fast cool temperature actually rose to cabin temp and max pressure was 10.5 Bar. It was better on auto but took some time to cool down and never below 4 deg. C. at the evap.
Did a test yesterday locking both P38's at motorway height. Both are 1998 GEMS.
Green P38 always reverts to standard height next start-up. Blue P38 seems to do as you suggest and stays at motorway. Only drove about a mile, so will try again next longer trip. Strange eh ??
LR feature or fault? I suspect it's a fault.
Got check main beam warning so changed bulb and still dead. Turned the key off and took it out and engine still running.
Seems I can only turn the engine off with the lights off or on dipped beam. Looks like I'm gonna be checking my wiring.
Got check main beam warning so changed bulb and still dead. Turned the key off and took it out and engine still running.
Seems I can only turn the engine off with the lights off or on dipped beam. Looks like I'm gonna be checking my wiring.
kurtjohnson10
Well-Known Member
I fitted a new valve block too an old chaps P38 ashe was about to get regally ripped by a local garage. Bless him he bought me a 4 pack of beer and a large bar of chocolate. I did not want anything
Normal relay in both?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Check the white connectors at the base of the A post left side. It could also be the height switch module is faulty.
Left footwell connectors removed & wires soldered many years ago.
Yes it does have self-leving bypass, but not timer-relay swap. There's was an extra ignition switched relay fixed to the fusebox case when I bought it. Whatever it was feeding was missing, so I used that relay to completely de-power the EAS & timer relay when parked which works well. It's easy to bypass so will try that tomorrow (was actually think the same earlier today).
Yes it does have self-leving bypass, but not timer-relay swap. There's was an extra ignition switched relay fixed to the fusebox case when I bought it. Whatever it was feeding was missing, so I used that relay to completely de-power the EAS & timer relay when parked which works well. It's easy to bypass so will try that tomorrow (was actually think the same earlier today).
Datatek
Well-Known Member
If the EAS is completely powered down, it will "forget" the setting is locked. A battery disconnect does the same.
Was thinking that, so will put up with the lack of that feature !! I like it not self-leveling.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Smooth 90 mile trip to the coast, lunch in the sun overlooking the port, then off to hospital to get my ears unbunged. For the first time in years, the EAS threw a wobbly. Strange one, it went to wade height, ignition off and back on and it returned to normal. No fault logged, it's never done that before, maybe it was all the speed humps in La Rochelle that it didn't like. No repeat on the 90 mile trip home.
Both mine do exactly that. Still cannot find the fault. If I see the flashing leds in time, then I hit the down button and they go back to standard. Cycling the ignition immediately usually resolves it. If I have to leave it at wade height (i.e. nowhere to stop), it then faults needing Nanocom to reset it.
On mine it's usually bumpy motorways, especially where the car gets into sort of floaty up & down oscillations above 60mph. Trouble is, I'm watching the road not the height switch, so I first notice when it beeps with soft fault.
Yep, mine will do that occasionally also..
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Got any pics without that disco in the way?So it turned up today. Not bad for 1250€
The clocks need resolder or repair. I'll resolder it and see what happens. If nothing changes it's going anyway
