It took a bit of fiddling to know what gear it was in but I’ve since been told the wheel on the inside is broken so I’ve just ordered a second hand one.
They can simply be dirty inside and not making good contact

Edit: just seen your other post 😬
 
LIN & CAN are both data networks, different speeds and different functions. LIN is single wire, CAN is two. Which module is complaining? A 'short' to positive or ground just means there is no data, it doesn't always mean a physical short - it could also be a component has failed holding the LIN high or low.
 
LIN & CAN are both data networks, different speeds and different functions. LIN is single wire, CAN is two. Which module is complaining? A 'short' to positive or ground just means there is no data, it doesn't always mean a physical short - it could also be a component has failed holding the LIN high or low.
It could be the rf receiver that's intermittently dying then?
 
Yes, or the LIN line chafing on the body etc. Is it the one on the tailgate? if so, check the wiring through the flexible isn't damaged or corroded, also check the 12 & 0V lines are OK
I thought it was in the roof? Near the rear dome light cluster?
What should i be looking at in the tailgate?
 
If it won't unlock then it's the one on the tailgate that is about the size of an old tape cassette, if it's the keyless start not working, then it's the one above the headlining.
Intermittent faults can be the worst to nail down, try tracking the conditions when it doesn't work to try and calculate the best time to test when it isn't working (temperature / weather / time since last use / battery voltage etc.) I had one years ago that only faulted if the car was parked in a certain spot, turned out the reflected heat from the sun was warming the roof up in just the 'wrong' spot, causing the module to shut down.
 
If it won't unlock then it's the one on the tailgate that is about the size of an old tape cassette, if it's the keyless start not working, then it's the one above the headlining.
Intermittent faults can be the worst to nail down, try tracking the conditions when it doesn't work to try and calculate the best time to test when it isn't working (temperature / weather / time since last use / battery voltage etc.) I had one years ago that only faulted if the car was parked in a certain spot, turned out the reflected heat from the sun was warming the roof up in just the 'wrong' spot, causing the module to shut down.
It's both that don't work, or both that do work so unlikely to be both having an intense fault at the same time.
It stopped working yesterday at home.. opened and started the car as normal, moved it around then switched off and locked. Came to it a couple of hours later and it wouldn't unlock or start.. nothing else had changed eg weather, location etc not even gone over a bump to move something
 
Then you need to be looking for anything common to both receivers - power, data line, ground point... It's unlikely to be the key(s) as the two systems operate separately, I'm assuming you've checked the battery contacts in the key for corrosion and fit? If everything except the CJB/BCM is OK, then by elimination, that can be the only cause (other than the keys or interference) as it's common to both systems.
 
Went for a comfortable waft to the brother in law's, via a garden centre cafe. Still throwing the pressure switch issue with EAS about 5 to 10 miles from first start, but behaving perfectly otherwise.
 
Took my rear bumper off to sort the lower tailgate rubbing on it.
One clip that clamps the plastic bumper skin to the steel bumper itself had come loose and I repositioned the others so that's all good now. Made an access hole so I can manually open the lower tailgate if it fails electrically.
I've got the leaky number one injector problem back again, thought that was fixed and it has been fine for a good while to be fair.
I seem to have 2 issues with it, leaking compression air from around the threads on the head, that's had a good looking at and two new copper washers but that leak has returned and, secondly, it looks like the nipple on the injector that takes the spill back to the fip has an issue and is weeping fuel and letting air in. Its a bugger to start so I'm using the 110 until a used but good injector arrives this week.
Although the head seat was spotlessly clean and looked fine I'm going to have that seat recut I think and another new copper washer.
Wonder if the copper washers that were recommended on a p38 facebook site are rubbish, I've used 2 of the 6 supplied so far so it's them or the injector seat or possibly the injector itself, I did have to dress off a small burr on the injector where the washer sits the second time I tried to fix it and thought I had.
Book symbol is permanently on where as only cold damp weather made that happen and it disappeared once a little warth was in the cabin. New zebra strip sorted that last year but its on permently now regardless of the weather or cabin heat. Not investigated that yet.
 

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