They can simply be dirty inside and not making good contactIt took a bit of fiddling to know what gear it was in but I’ve since been told the wheel on the inside is broken so I’ve just ordered a second hand one.
Edit: just seen your other post
They can simply be dirty inside and not making good contactIt took a bit of fiddling to know what gear it was in but I’ve since been told the wheel on the inside is broken so I’ve just ordered a second hand one.
Just another day in being a proud owner of a Land Roverspent the day welding up the jacking point and wheel arch, just got to paint it now
Pride comes before a fallJust another day in being a proud owner of a Land Rover
Anyone know what Lin Bus A is? Apparently mine has a short
I had the dreaded key issue again.. i wonder which is the root cause? Rf receiver breaking the lin bus or damaged lin bus stopping the rf?Spunds like part of yhe can-bus system? @Saint.V8 played with that on his L322.
It could be the rf receiver that's intermittently dying then?LIN & CAN are both data networks, different speeds and different functions. LIN is single wire, CAN is two. Which module is complaining? A 'short' to positive or ground just means there is no data, it doesn't always mean a physical short - it could also be a component has failed holding the LIN high or low.
It's working this morning again after a sleepIt could be the rf receiver that's intermittently dying then?
Yes, or the LIN line chafing on the body etc. Is it the one on the tailgate? if so, check the wiring through the flexible isn't damaged or corroded, also check the 12 & 0V lines are OKIt could be the rf receiver that's intermittently dying then?
I thought it was in the roof? Near the rear dome light cluster?Yes, or the LIN line chafing on the body etc. Is it the one on the tailgate? if so, check the wiring through the flexible isn't damaged or corroded, also check the 12 & 0V lines are OK
It's both that don't work, or both that do work so unlikely to be both having an intense fault at the same time.If it won't unlock then it's the one on the tailgate that is about the size of an old tape cassette, if it's the keyless start not working, then it's the one above the headlining.
Intermittent faults can be the worst to nail down, try tracking the conditions when it doesn't work to try and calculate the best time to test when it isn't working (temperature / weather / time since last use / battery voltage etc.) I had one years ago that only faulted if the car was parked in a certain spot, turned out the reflected heat from the sun was warming the roof up in just the 'wrong' spot, causing the module to shut down.
Could actually be the driver pack playing up.Went for a comfortable waft to the brother in law's, via a garden centre cafe. Still throwing the pressure switch issue with EAS about 5 to 10 miles from first start, but behaving perfectly otherwise.