domino
Well-Known Member
That's exactly what I said to him when he handed it over. I said it wasn't advisories, it's a feature list!
He wasn't amused.
That's exactly what I said to him when he handed it over. I said it wasn't advisories, it's a feature list!
He wasn't amused.
biketeacherdave
Well-Known Member
Replaced my rear boxes I picked up a week old complete system for peanuts at Xmas front pipe/cats, centre box and rears. I had previously swopped out my centre box due to a blowing hole in it at the welds thought I would do the rears today gonna save the front until another day.
As with my old centre box the rears were original landrover fitment
You can see
the
old against the new
were the right hand mounting bracket had rusted threw and the join were it fell apart as I gave it a wiggle
As with my old centre box the rears were original landrover fitment
You can see
the old against the newwere the right hand mounting bracket had rusted threw and the join were it fell apart as I gave it a wiggle
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Quick update re last two posts.
The CD performed faultlessly so I suspect previous 'jumping' simply due to condensation on the cd's.
Also had plenty of warm air, (from heater-ventilation system), on the last two run outs and I even heard the blowers blowing, (on at least one occasion), but still suspect problems with HIVAC System, (an AC re-gas at the very least).
There is also a strong smell of petrol from rear of vehicle since she has been 'allowed out' and suspect that there may be a leak from one of the unions close to the tank/pump.
Ironically I got my Grand Cherokee very cheap as it was squirting fuel all over the place, (and the LPG didn't work).
After checking numerous unions/fittings I finally tracked the problem down to the Fuel Pressure Regulator, (which wasn't), thus pressuring the fuel rail system well above that of the intended pressure and all of the unions couldn't cope!
The LPG just required a quick re-program via my laptop, (really wish I had LPG on my P38), but I am surprised that the fuel gauge needle hasn't dropped any further despite a couple of 20 mile journeys!
Also need to strip the Benelli as she is only running on two cylinders currently and my 'quick release' fuel pipe coupling has now arrived so I can finally remove the tank completely from the bike!
The CD performed faultlessly so I suspect previous 'jumping' simply due to condensation on the cd's.
Also had plenty of warm air, (from heater-ventilation system), on the last two run outs and I even heard the blowers blowing, (on at least one occasion), but still suspect problems with HIVAC System, (an AC re-gas at the very least).
There is also a strong smell of petrol from rear of vehicle since she has been 'allowed out' and suspect that there may be a leak from one of the unions close to the tank/pump.
Ironically I got my Grand Cherokee very cheap as it was squirting fuel all over the place, (and the LPG didn't work).
After checking numerous unions/fittings I finally tracked the problem down to the Fuel Pressure Regulator, (which wasn't), thus pressuring the fuel rail system well above that of the intended pressure and all of the unions couldn't cope!
The LPG just required a quick re-program via my laptop, (really wish I had LPG on my P38), but I am surprised that the fuel gauge needle hasn't dropped any further despite a couple of 20 mile journeys!
Also need to strip the Benelli as she is only running on two cylinders currently and my 'quick release' fuel pipe coupling has now arrived so I can finally remove the tank completely from the bike!
Just repaired the spare wheel well 'holes' , (two rust holes and the replacement of three of the circular panel inserts), and it looks very good - if I do say so myself!
I am planning to insert 2 x rubber grommets into the centre of the well - to provide drainage should there be any water ingress.
I have now realised that the Range Rover, (any variant), is not a 'mode of conveyance' - it is a 'life objective' !!!!!!!!!!
Also trying to repair my compressor pressure switch, (what a complicated mechanism), hoping to use a piece of rubber inner tube to replace the original diaphragm that has perished - thus stopping the compressor from running continuously!
I am planning to insert 2 x rubber grommets into the centre of the well - to provide drainage should there be any water ingress.
I have now realised that the Range Rover, (any variant), is not a 'mode of conveyance' - it is a 'life objective' !!!!!!!!!!
Also trying to repair my compressor pressure switch, (what a complicated mechanism), hoping to use a piece of rubber inner tube to replace the original diaphragm that has perished - thus stopping the compressor from running continuously!
blue02upnorth
New Member
Installed new battery and alternator because prior owner went cheap when batt was replaced.Took full year to burn the brushes out..Always was a little odd(strange lights and beeps)Minute i was done,the dome lights were the brightest they ever were!!Also no more electrical quirks(gauges flat lining,gearbox fault,abs traction control,hissing and buzzing out of radio speakers)
The compressor pressure switch or the diaphragm valve?
I think that every time I drive in bad weather. Some people are just looking to cause a crash.
Wammers,
It was my humble garage air compressor - it's on/off cycle was virtually constant due to the pressure switch diaphragm splitting.
I have made a temporary repair, (cycle inner tube), until I can order a replacement.
Ironically my EAS appears to be working fine, (no errors - even before I found that the front offside height sensor arm was disconnected), it does go up and down but I still need to learn how it works, (I have read my owners handbook a couple of times - but will need to read it again)!
This is obviously because I obtained the EAS cable, (and free software), and an EAS Compressor rebuild kit - prior to looking at the vehicle - Murphy's Law dictates that if you have it - you don't need it!
Likewise the vehicle came with a 'free' Syncmate - which I have yet to use!!!!
OK misunderstood. Owners handbook is pretty useless for understanding EAS. Better downloading RAVE. Syncmate is a good thing to have in the glovebox.
The Boot / Wheel Well area is now looking a tad better than it did before!
Before: -
And After: -
I have now removed the entire headlining prior to my forthcoming 'recovering' project - once I have purchased some suitable material and glue - as per the excellent article by 'Dopey'.
Cleaned out both Sunroof drain grommets in the hope that the boot will now remain dry so that I can replace all of the trim and carpets!
Before: -
And After: -
I have now removed the entire headlining prior to my forthcoming 'recovering' project - once I have purchased some suitable material and glue - as per the excellent article by 'Dopey'.
Cleaned out both Sunroof drain grommets in the hope that the boot will now remain dry so that I can replace all of the trim and carpets!
OK misunderstood. Owners handbook is pretty useless for understanding EAS. Better downloading RAVE. Syncmate is a good thing to have in the glovebox.
Armed with your excellent guide, (and my diagnostics), I am ready for any potential problem - famous last words!
I never leave home without the 'Syncmate' - but wary of leaving it in the vehicle, (when not going out anywhere), as it is probably worth more than my P38 currently!!
Also found one potential cause for my cruise control not working yesterday - the vacuum pipe is perished!
Haven't had time to see where it is taken from as the pipe goes between the firewall and the back of the engine - surprised that it is not affecting engine if it is taken from inlet manifold?
A job for another day!
There is one that goes to a switch on the brake pedal. It releases the vac and switches off cruise when brake is applied. Providing you don't drop below 35 MPH pressing resume or RES button on the steering wheel should return the cruise to it's previous speed.
Wammers, many thanks for the additional info - I will direct my attentions accordingly!
Unfortunately, however, that reminds me of one of my next jobs, (whilst I source the fabric for my headliner), where I need to remove my steering wheel in order to clean up the integral switches, (including the cruise control switches), as they are all gummed up with something nasty!
Back to work, (the real world - not my past time)!
Unfortunately, however, that reminds me of one of my next jobs, (whilst I source the fabric for my headliner), where I need to remove my steering wheel in order to clean up the integral switches, (including the cruise control switches), as they are all gummed up with something nasty!
Back to work, (the real world - not my past time)!
biketeacherdave
Well-Known Member
Again nothing but I do have a box of nice new rockers to go on at some point when I did my head gaskets I found a rocker with a steel pad braking up shoulda just delayed the rebuild but didn't notice it until I went to refit the rocker shaft.
Iv decided my tiny tapping isn't the cam ever hopeful me but just worn rockers, watch this space
Iv decided my tiny tapping isn't the cam ever hopeful me but just worn rockers, watch this space
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