Is the fuel quantity not low as a 90 year olds ball sack? Or is it likely to balance out a little after a new temp sensor?

I seem to recall a lot of the values were nowhere near what the Nanocom documentation said they should be but it didn't matter. I had some traces saved but they're all xlsb and I cannot open them on this computer. I'll try and find what mine were.
 
My oil cooler pipes are leaking really badly now. Thinking of fitting a compression fitting and then just standard rubber pipe connected with a barbed fitting. Oil cooler pipe is the worst and has an outer diameter of 5/8". Only connectors I can find are £40 each and I need 4 of them!


EDIT

Found these on eBay. Might do the trick?

 
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That is my understanding too, based on looking at RAVE the fuel temp sensor is under the top cover of the FIP and a new one is about £20 and looks an easy replacement.
Just bought one off the bay for £15 Genuine Bosch Fuel Pressure Sensor 2464509015. Dont put Range Rover in as price sky rockets
 
I thought he had a refurbed FIP on it?
Ironically I do, hasn't worked since it went on in December, which replaced the one that went on in October but failed in November. CN4X4 stopped answering my calls, so slowly getting the tools and parts to fix it all myself.
 
Does it take a load of cranking? Until the static is lowered the pump readings will be all over the place. You should be able to slightly loosen the bolts and tap it towards the engine a little with a block of wood to get it more around the 50ish mark. It’s gonna be much much better once you’re done
 
Ironically I do, hasn't worked since it went on in December, which replaced the one that went on in October but failed in November. CN4X4 stopped answering my calls, so slowly getting the tools and parts to fix it all myself.

FFS. Still got the old one?
 
My oil cooler pipes are leaking really badly now. Thinking of fitting a compression fitting and then just standard rubber pipe connected with a barbed fitting. Oil cooler pipe is the worst and has an outer diameter of 5/8". Only connectors I can find are £40 each and I need 4 of them!


EDIT

Found these on eBay. Might do the trick?


I think I might need @brianp38dse or @gstuart for their opinion here!

5/8" is nearly but not quite 15 mm? My house is all imperial pipework and I know damn well that 15 or 22 mm olives leak every time but you can get olives from Screwfix that fit imperial and take up the slack.

If I were to use a 15 mm fitting with one of those imperial olives, would that hold against oil pressure of 4 bar?
 
I'm guessing the 2.5 DT uses metric bolts. Doubt ARP do studs for them, but you never know ?

Best to get a new set of stretch bolts.
When I get the time and space to do my triumph triple top end I will be getting a local engineering firm to make me up some ARP style dual thread studs to replace the standard stretch bolts.
 
Yes that one was easy, it's the other ones on the left of the pic
You need to take the caliper off and disc undo the back blate and move it round a bit to give better access then give head of that set screw a bloody good headache before you try again its a word of pain if you shear it off, give it some heat if you can aswell did that on my first L322 and this one ( did both sides on both of them).
 
Does it take a load of cranking? Until the static is lowered the pump readings will be all over the place. You should be able to slightly loosen the bolts and tap it towards the engine a little with a block of wood to get it more around the 50ish mark. It’s gonna be much much better once you’re done
It does, bigger issue is it doesn't rev at all, put your foot down and wait. The old girl hasn't been drivable since this pump was fitted. I've got the lads in the metal bay at work making me a timing pin, and I'll get a static timing kit ordered.
 
You need to take the caliper off and disc undo the back blate and move it round a bit to give better access then give head of that set screw a bloody good headache before you try again its a word of pain if you shear it off, give it some heat if you can aswell did that on my first L322 and this one ( did both sides on both of them).
Any idea what the bolt size/thread is? I'll need 2 new ones but island don't sell them
 
It does, bigger issue is it doesn't rev at all, put your foot down and wait. The old girl hasn't been drivable since this pump was fitted. I've got the lads in the metal bay at work making me a timing pin, and I'll get a static timing kit ordered.
As your modulation is at 70% and you have a Nanocom, I can give you an easy way of getting it spot on. PM me with an Email address and I will send the info.
 
I think I might need @brianp38dse or @gstuart for their opinion here!

5/8" is nearly but not quite 15 mm? My house is all imperial pipework and I know damn well that 15 or 22 mm olives leak every time but you can get olives from Screwfix that fit imperial and take up the slack.

If I were to use a 15 mm fitting with one of those imperial olives, would that hold against oil pressure of 4 bar?
I would always use metric olives with metric fittings & vice versa. I used 15mm solder & compression fittings for some 8-bar airline feeds in my garage with no issues.

Have you tried asking some of those custom hose companies that do made to measure stuff ? I googled this "oil cooler pipes made to measure" and these came up.

https://www.customhoses.co.uk/hoses/oil-fuel-coolant

https://www.tomcatwebshop.co.uk/
 
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For anyone who cares, this is how i split the ball joint
17415183619570.jpg
 
It does, bigger issue is it doesn't rev at all, put your foot down and wait. The old girl hasn't been drivable since this pump was fitted. I've got the lads in the metal bay at work making me a timing pin, and I'll get a static timing kit ordered.

Il send you mine if you need to borrow one
 

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