We're these p38 struts from the likes of rimmers/island 4x4 etc or did you source them using cross referencing? I fitted a new centre console strut which made it better but still needs a lift to open(that might be normal?) and tailgate struts from island which ,again, made it better but my mates 38 struts that he got off ebay actually raise the tailgate up to full height with no assistance, I have to lift it all the way, its easy enough though.
I'm finding the plastic welding of the switch 'pins' a faff so had a look to see if it was possible to secure the switch with small self tappers into the remains of the switch studs that originally hold the thing in place. It looks possible but would need tiny screws, an even tinyer pilot hole and maybe a duff switchpack to experiment with. Then I got cold in the garage and the warmth of the soldering iron won the day.
I have always just heated the end of the pin with my soldering iron.I'm finding the plastic welding of the switch 'pins' a faff so had a look to see if it was possible to secure the switch with small self tappers into the remains of the switch studs that originally hold the thing in place. It looks possible but would need tiny screws, an even tinyer pilot hole and maybe a duff switchpack to experiment with. Then I got cold in the garage and the warmth of the soldering iron won the day.
I did a cross-reference. Important to get the bonnet ones right as there are three variants and not all makes (eg QH) have all types. Locking or not, and under-bonnet pad or not. Centre console is neutral on lifting but somehow a lot easier action than before. Tailgate goes up on its own, and when closing I bring it down to a few inches away then let go and it slams itself - but not too hard. Bonnet self-lifts to full height gently.
Itβs just the BeCM keeping you on your toes.
And then on to fun job of front ball joint replacement.... not looking forward to that lol
