Today I also finished off painting all of the horrible peeling grey console pieces, I have taken them all out and sprayed them satin black (except the head end unit bits as I'll be replacing with an Android unit soon).

Very satisfying to see it all in place and no more horrible peeling grey console pieces (do not have a pic of before).
 

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Thank you, not everyones cup of tea I know, but I'm going for an 'all black' look, have the side vents to do next.

I love the all black look. That is what my P38 is like. One day I will get around to doing the cosmetics of it, for instance replacing the RANGE ROVER f&r to blacked out as well.

One day.
I need to get the electrics and other things done before I get there.
 
Today I also finished off painting all of the horrible peeling grey console pieces, I have taken them all out and sprayed them satin black (except the head end unit bits as I'll be replacing with an Android unit soon).

Very satisfying to see it all in place and no more horrible peeling grey console pieces (do not have a pic of before).
wow, that looks considerably better than that horrible sticky silver paint that definitely does not age well.

Are you doing the area behind centre armrest, with the switches for rear passengers?
 
wow, that looks considerably better than that horrible sticky silver paint that definitely does not age well.

Are you doing the area behind centre armrest, with the switches for rear passengers?

Yep, did those bits today (didn't get a pic), have also done the door handle trim bits on all four doors and the door card storage area bits (forgot the name!, at the bottom of the door card). @gold rover will kill me as he was the one that told me the name of them and I've forgotten already!!
 
Yep, did those bits today (didn't get a pic), have also done the door handle trim bits on all four doors and the door card storage area bits (forgot the name!, at the bottom of the door card). @gold rover will kill me as he was the one that told me the name of them and I've forgotten already!!
well done. I think I saw in an earlier post you mentioned starting a youtube channel, you probably should have, I think this is some quality content and you'd get a bucket load of views.
 
well done.
Thanks!

I think I saw in an earlier post you mentioned starting a youtube channel, you probably should have, I think this is some quality content and you'd get a bucket load of views.
Really? I was joking (other than making a fool out of myself for buying a car to do up without actually knowing much about cars, but its something I've always wanted to do...

Most of the material would be me swearing and asking myself why I actually got myself into this! My L322 is now affectionally known as 'the money pit'!

Thanks for your comments.
 
Okay, so today I got somewhat into the direction of forwards but still some curveballs.
The first thing I did was apply power directly to the instrument cluster (after having removed it) to see if the lights for the instruments, speedo, and such were working. And the good news is they are. Which to be fair I did expect that. So, while the IC was out I tested connectors 0233 & C1280 for continuity across their corresponding pins.
Here's what I have so far found (I hope this shows well);
C1280 C0233
1<--------->3
2<--------->2
3<--------->15
4<--------->none
5<--------->18
6<--------->none
7<--------->none
8<--------->16
9<--------->13
10<------->12
11<------->5
12<------->none
13<------->none
14 <------>8
15<------->10
16<------->9

So as you can see (hopefully) is that they don't all have a corresponding pin on either of these connectors. So what I am trying to find out in RAVE, looking at the schematic, is where those wires that don't match on these two actually go. On C0233, RAVE says pin 6 goes to the interior lights & pin 20 goes to the HEVAC, 4 & 14 are power(I believe they both must come from connector C1276 but I haven't as yet checked that yet. I'm trying to trace them via RAVE and see where they actually connect). 7 & 17 both go to earth/ground, and when I checked continuity with them and the earth point in the drivers RHS footwell it was all good. I don't yet know where wires 1, 6, 11, 18, 19 on connector C0233 go and I also don't know where pins 6, 7, 12 & 13 on C1280 go.
What I do know is that pin 6, the red & white wire on C0233, when checked for continuity with the ground point in the driver's footwell it says it's a closed circuit. Yet RAVE says that should go to the interior lamps. It is all pretty confusing for me but I will soldier on. As I say up until this problem started about a month ago everything was working fine.
 
Yep, did those bits today (didn't get a pic), have also done the door handle trim bits on all four doors and the door card storage area bits (forgot the name!, at the bottom of the door card). @gold rover will kill me as she was the one that told me the name of them and I've forgotten already!!
Fixed that for you
I've also forgotten :( , but it's ok because lrcat hasn't :D
 
Got her back yesterday, with lock fixed. Immediately on pick up the EAS fault was resolved. So low battery causing issues, as usual. Put the interior light fuses back in. Which gave me my windscreen wipers, and washer motor back.
CD player which was also being a PITA decided it was happy too.
These beasties, go in a huff for no reason, then love you for no reason. And people wonder why we call them 'she' :D
 
Ah, hat the MOT / TÜV today. And giess what? She passed woth flying colors, NO findings, as in none! Not even oil leaks, so the silicone worked wonders.

Emissions: 4.1% CO at 500 rpm (official measurement). I didn't check what the manual says yet, legal limits are 3.5% with 1% tolerance. Not too bad having it done the first time, without a CO gauge and balancing them by ear.
 
Yesterday, almost recovered now, after a full day at work spent 3 hours under / over / in the engine bay eventually managing to get the passenger side heatshield off the exhaust so I can get the manifold bolts / head off in due course. Dremel with flexi drive and cutting discs - still couldn't get the angle and reach for cutting the bolts off. Ended up with wife's expensive makeup mirror balanced on the chassis leg and a worklight underneath to see / get to the bottom bolts. And gave up on bolts but just cut a groove round them through the outer heat shield until I could work it loose.
Why didn't LR just make the outer in 2 pieces that had tabs / folded over sections at the edge and overlapped in the middle with a pair of stainless bolts into the long mounts off the manifold? Would be an easy 5 minute job then.

Tonight I will be reassembling the first rocker shaft. Shaft in the freezer and the mounting posts will be in the oven after dinner to try to get a little more clearance and easier fitting. Contrast picture afterwards maybe of the un-worked on drivers side (very well done) with the raw state of the refurbished passenger one.
 
Well the Kurust arrived this morning so was underneath with the wire brush and cleaned the rest of the chassis paying particular attention to where the shock absorbers and air bags mount thanks @Henry_b ,then gave it a coat of smooth black metal paint. Took the sill finishers off and cleaned the inner sills, bit of welding to be done:( can't find the part numbers for the mounting clips on lr.cat:(bugger.:rolleyes:
 

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