kermit_rr said:
Yes and 12 point is easier to spell haha. I've no idea either, first time i saw one i went to the shop looking for a 12 pointed socket :eek: i think i was having a special day
Click to expand...
I remember going in to Machine mart and asking for a Bi-hex 8mm socket and the cashier gave me a 13mm socket and said that it would be close enough :rolleyes::oops::D
 
gstuart said:
@pete12345 , here u go mate ,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233263469662?hash=item364f96145e:g:EuQAAOSwosdcASZe

bit cheaper

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122771420990?_trkparms=aid=1110006&algo=HOMESPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=20200818143230&meid=15fd8bc3018e4be1a0510031c9bb01b5&pid=101224&rk=1&rkt=5&sd=233263469662&itm=122771420990&pmt=1&noa=1&pg=2047675&algv=DefaultOrganic&_trksid=p2047675.c101224.m-1

also got a set of these, are perfect for cleaning up bad terminal pins , plus can be used on small connectors in getting the pins out, as they have small tabs down the side holding the pins in

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350802553272?hash=item51ad7629b8:g:v64AAOSw8S9a7DVw

hope it helps
Click to expand...
Not sure if they are for what I want to do. I just want to disconnect the injector loom plugs from the injectors. Those look like they are for removing wires / pins from multiplugs?

Too dark out there for pictures of the actual plugs but some searching on Google suggests they are a form of junior power timer plug? Like Kermit says, some have the wire loop to press in, like the main cross pin of a staple, and an indent section (as if it was the legs of a staple) moves down each side and releases the catches for the block to be pulled off the fixed part on the injector.

These are like a staple but the cross pin sits in a groove on the edge of the terminal block housing, so doesn't move in, but doesn't pull out easily as a little 0 degree fold on the end of the pin goes round the corner of the block. It looks as though popping those bits out would allow the clip to slide off, and release the catches. But also, knowing my luck, pinging the wire clip off to either lodge somewhere vital and cause havoc or never be seen again.

On the plus side Google also shows that only 2 bolts on the heat shields go into the manifold, so less fraught dealing with them than I had thought. The others hold 2 halves together around the manifold, just shield - to - shield. Much easier to manufacture a resilient but actionable solution to.

Found a picture that looks like them - https://www.electricalcarservices.c...t=400&numMaxWidth=400&numItem=1497&strParent=
 
Henry_b said:
A few weeks ago I mentioned that my next job would be HVAC related!

Well she had an issue with the A/C not working, naturally I thought there were all sorts of issues


So just to amuse myself I connected my A/C gauge..

bSiaQK6l.jpg


That'll be the issue then!

So I topped her off with a small can of refrigerant I had lying around, this reading below is normal when the compressor clutch is disengaged.

nmYGQUml.jpg


Thanks to the small can it is only sat on 20psi which is low however the compressor kicks on and off correctly and the A/C is ice cold

I'm expecting it too all leak out, however its nice to know all te stuff works.

The only issue is a dead interior fan which isn't blowing as much air as is ideal.

Watch this space!
Click to expand...
Put a can of RED ANGEL in there mate which will find and seal the leak. Used it in my Aston Martin A/C system and never had an issue after that and it stayed ice cold too. The leak was sooo small and hidden you could not see it even with the dye added. Its worth a try buddy seeing as you have got it running again.
 
Scotiawhiskers said:
Spent 2 hours with freshly acquired tools, pls an assortment of old ones making progress with Otto. Unfortunately that did include jetwashing my arm and sleeve with coolant while draining the system now I have a 21mm socket for the radiator drain plug.
In the end gave up at this point.
2mdho1t


I think the top end overhaul is going to be very useful. There was quite a bit of sooty gunky oily mess in the plenum / ram pipe section, but I think this is our real culprit for the issues.
2mdmpDN


I'm sure I haven't seen thick carbon soot like that on an intake before. Suggests to me that whatever is wrong we have been getting combustion with number 4 inlet open, and that will be the source of the gasket issue / valve stick to number 2 too. If the gasket has blown between them and 4 is burned or held off the seat then it would be a tad problematical.

Further delving will be complicated by inability to remove the exhaust heat shield bolts - currently thinking best option is to separate at downpipes and take manifolds off with the heads for better access. Please tell me that is possible and they clear the chassis legs, plumbing of various kinds / fluids, wiring, etc?
Also recommendations on slim 5/16 to get to the lower / outer rocker cover bolts. My 5/16 is too bulky to get in there, although it fitted the inner / upper ones fine.
And what am I missing with the injector / etc wiring plugs? Everything else I have worked on has had a wire bar section that pushes in to release the plug, or a single / double plastic press in catches. Those look like the wire bar ones, but with the bar missing, and I don't want to screw them up trying to get them off. Enough problems already....
Click to expand...

My old Halfords set was slim enough but you can get thin walled impact sockets.
 
Enthusiastman said:
Put a can of RED ANGEL in there mate which will find and seal the leak. Used it in my Aston Martin A/C system and never had an issue after that and it stayed ice cold too. The leak was sooo small and hidden you could not see it even with the dye added. Its worth a try buddy seeing as you have got it running again.
Click to expand...
That sounds like stuff that would clog the fine passageways in a condenser
 
Scotiawhiskers said:
Not sure if they are for what I want to do. I just want to disconnect the injector loom plugs from the injectors. Those look like they are for removing wires / pins from multiplugs?

Too dark out there for pictures of the actual plugs but some searching on Google suggests they are a form of junior power timer plug? Like Kermit says, some have the wire loop to press in, like the main cross pin of a staple, and an indent section (as if it was the legs of a staple) moves down each side and releases the catches for the block to be pulled off the fixed part on the injector.

These are like a staple but the cross pin sits in a groove on the edge of the terminal block housing, so doesn't move in, but doesn't pull out easily as a little 0 degree fold on the end of the pin goes round the corner of the block. It looks as though popping those bits out would allow the clip to slide off, and release the catches. But also, knowing my luck, pinging the wire clip off to either lodge somewhere vital and cause havoc or never be seen again.

On the plus side Google also shows that only 2 bolts on the heat shields go into the manifold, so less fraught dealing with them than I had thought. The others hold 2 halves together around the manifold, just shield - to - shield. Much easier to manufacture a resilient but actionable solution to.

Found a picture that looks like them - https://www.electricalcarservices.c...t=400&numMaxWidth=400&numItem=1497&strParent=
Click to expand...
All corrupted on my tablet. These what you mean?
 

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Scotiawhiskers said:
Spent 2 hours with freshly acquired tools, pls an assortment of old ones making progress with Otto. Unfortunately that did include jetwashing my arm and sleeve with coolant while draining the system now I have a 21mm socket for the radiator drain plug.
In the end gave up at this point.
2mdho1t


I think the top end overhaul is going to be very useful. There was quite a bit of sooty gunky oily mess in the plenum / ram pipe section, but I think this is our real culprit for the issues.
2mdmpDN


I'm sure I haven't seen thick carbon soot like that on an intake before. Suggests to me that whatever is wrong we have been getting combustion with number 4 inlet open, and that will be the source of the gasket issue / valve stick to number 2 too. If the gasket has blown between them and 4 is burned or held off the seat then it would be a tad problematical.

Further delving will be complicated by inability to remove the exhaust heat shield bolts - currently thinking best option is to separate at downpipes and take manifolds off with the heads for better access. Please tell me that is possible and they clear the chassis legs, plumbing of various kinds / fluids, wiring, etc?
Also recommendations on slim 5/16 to get to the lower / outer rocker cover bolts. My 5/16 is too bulky to get in there, although it fitted the inner / upper ones fine.
And what am I missing with the injector / etc wiring plugs? Everything else I have worked on has had a wire bar section that pushes in to release the plug, or a single / double plastic press in catches. Those look like the wire bar ones, but with the bar missing, and I don't want to screw them up trying to get them off. Enough problems already....
Click to expand...

Yes the heads will clear the chassis, BUT the manifolds obstruct the head bolts so it's quite difficult. See this post https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...phy-engine-rebuild.299779/page-4#post-4605766

Theoretically you could undo the bolts gradually, while lifting the heads until they can be removed, but I suspect that way the manifolds won't clear the chassis.

5/16 ratchet ring spanner is easier than a socket for the heat-shield bolts.
 
biketeacherdave said:
tried out this polish a mate dropped off it comes in 2 little bottles and i mean little gave the corner of the bonnet a go didnt really expect much.

apply the first coat stage 1 it says basically like a panel wipe type stuff but not.

apply the stage 2 polish polymer based stuff and there is a reaction between the 2.
wait 15 mins and buff up to a shine.

now iv polished me cars with all sorts over the years but feeeeeck me it looks like a totally different colour.

now iv had to wash n dry the car and do the whole car looks amazing. rain stopped play wish id taken a before and after pic.

well nothing broke this week had todo something with me put aside rr time lol
Click to expand...
Wotcha think of it after 7 years?
 
pwood999 said:
Yes the heads will clear the chassis, BUT the manifolds obstruct the head bolts so it's quite difficult. See this post https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...phy-engine-rebuild.299779/page-4#post-4605766

Theoretically you could undo the bolts gradually, while lifting the heads until they can be removed, but I suspect that way the manifolds won't clear the chassis.

5/16 ratchet ring spanner is easier than a socket for the heat-shield bolts.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that @pwood999 - you've made it much clearer what my issues are. I suspect that whatever traditional tool is intended for use, it will no longer work on rusted and rounded heatshield bolts / nuts to get them off. I think I may be spending some time covered in crud while carefully applying a Dremel or multitool blade to cut the old bolts.
I will try mole grips on the central ones first as they look most critical for security. I am sure I can invent an alternative, preferably non-seizing method of securing the peripheral points for reassembly / any future disassembly. If so I will of course share it here for everyone's benefit.
From your photos it looks as though manifold removal is necessary to get to the head bolts too. Not just a case of sliding / easing the heads up past their joint with the manifold. I presume that with the manifolds off it is necessary / best practice to support the exhausts / cats in some manner to avoid strain on the system?
 
tomcat59alan said:
All corrupted on my tablet. These what you mean?
Click to expand...
That is the clip type. As on here.
script>

Only way I can see to remove them is to lever / ping the clip off the connector? Hope it doesn't go anywhere vital and can be found again. Fuel temp and this one (water temp? front of left head) are easy enough to get at, but the injector ones the open ends are hidden by the injector securing clips.
 
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