Spent 2 hours with freshly acquired tools, pls an assortment of old ones making progress with Otto. Unfortunately that did include jetwashing my arm and sleeve with coolant while draining the system now I have a 21mm socket for the radiator drain plug.
In the end gave up at this point.
2mdho1t


I think the top end overhaul is going to be very useful. There was quite a bit of sooty gunky oily mess in the plenum / ram pipe section, but I think this is our real culprit for the issues.
2mdmpDN


I'm sure I haven't seen thick carbon soot like that on an intake before. Suggests to me that whatever is wrong we have been getting combustion with number 4 inlet open, and that will be the source of the gasket issue / valve stick to number 2 too. If the gasket has blown between them and 4 is burned or held off the seat then it would be a tad problematical.

Further delving will be complicated by inability to remove the exhaust heat shield bolts - currently thinking best option is to separate at downpipes and take manifolds off with the heads for better access. Please tell me that is possible and they clear the chassis legs, plumbing of various kinds / fluids, wiring, etc?
Also recommendations on slim 5/16 to get to the lower / outer rocker cover bolts. My 5/16 is too bulky to get in there, although it fitted the inner / upper ones fine.
And what am I missing with the injector / etc wiring plugs? Everything else I have worked on has had a wire bar section that pushes in to release the plug, or a single / double plastic press in catches. Those look like the wire bar ones, but with the bar missing, and I don't want to screw them up trying to get them off. Enough problems already....
 
Last edited:
Scotiawhiskers said:
Spent 2 hours with freshly acquired tools, pls an assortment of old ones making progress with Otto. Unfortunately that did include jetwashing my arm and sleeve with coolant while draining the system now I have a 21mm socket for the radiator drain plug.
In the end gave up at this point.
2mdho1t


I think the top end overhaul is going to be very useful. There was quite a bit of sooty gunky oily mess in the plenum / ram pipe section, but I think this is our real culprit for the issues.
2mdmpDN


I'm sure I haven't seen thick carbon soot like that on an intake before. Suggests to me that whatever is wrong we have been getting combustion with number 4 inlet open, and that will be the source of the gasket issue / valve stick to number 2 too. If the gasket has blown between them and 4 is burned or held off the seat then it would be a tad problematical.

Further delving will be complicated by inability to remove the exhaust heat shield bolts - currently thinking best option is to separate at downpipes and take manifolds off with the heads for better access. Please tell me that is possible and they clear the chassis legs, plumbing of various kinds / fluids, wiring, etc?
Also recommendations on slim 5/16 to get to the lower / outer rocker cover bolts. My 5/16 is too bulky to get in there, although it fitted the inner / upper ones fine.
And what am I missing with the injector / etc wiring plugs? Everything else I have worked on has had a wire bar section that pushes in to release the plug, or a single / double plastic press in catches. Those look like the wire bar ones, but with the bar missing, and I don't want to screw them up trying to get them off. Enough problems already....
Click to expand...
I think I saw some of the wires in my tool box, how many are missing?
 
tomcat59alan said:
I think I saw some of the wires in my tool box, how many are missing?
Click to expand...
I don't think anything is missing. It is just a style of connector (injectors, brown multiply above number 1, etc) which I haven't come across and don't want to bugger up trying to remove the wrong way through being a numpty.
Ones like the TPS have the push in wire bar which I am used to from other vehicles, or there are ones with push down plastic latch strip. I just can't see what moves which way on the injector type ones to release them.
 
Scotiawhiskers said:
I don't think anything is missing. It is just a style of connector (injectors, brown multiply above number 1, etc) which I haven't come across and don't want to bugger up trying to remove the wrong way through being a numpty.
Ones like the TPS have the push in wire bar which I am used to from other vehicles, or there are ones with push down plastic latch strip. I just can't see what moves which way on the injector type ones to release them.
Click to expand...

plus 1 with regards trying to get terminals out , then bought a set of these and really did help seeing some of them are like an iq test, lol

have u got a picture please of the terminals ur trying to remove as might have come across it

37F24EED-8368-4B1D-A382-2707EF38A53E.png
 
 
Injector connections on my thor have the wire press thing to undo.
Also the rocket cover bolts on mine are 8mm, i splashed out on 1/4" 12 point socket, worked perfectly, previously I'd spent ages with a small spanner
 
kermit_rr said:
Injector connections on my thor have the wire press thing to undo.
Also the rocket cover bolts on mine are 8mm, i splashed out on 1/4" 12 point socket, worked perfectly, previously I'd spent ages with a small spanner
Click to expand...

12 point = Bi hex ;)

Never understood their reasoning for using them, not like they have to be tamper proof! :confused::D
 
Henry_b said:
12 point = Bi hex ;)

Never understood their reasoning for using them, not like they have to be tamper proof! :confused::D
Click to expand...
Yes and 12 point is easier to spell haha. I've no idea either, first time i saw one i went to the shop looking for a 12 pointed socket :eek: i think i was having a special day
 
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