wammers said:
Mine is chipped in the ECU so will give any 4.0 litre Rover V8 a run for it's money. Not far behind a 4.6. But if looked after is a far far more reliable engine. The diesel may be two cylinders short but the exhaust note is not totally reprehensible. I know you are being tongue in cheek as am i. Well sometimes. ;):D:D
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So in your estimation is a 2.5DSE something to look out for if the overall condition of the vehicle is OK?
 
DanClarke said:
So in your estimation is a 2.5DSE something to look out for if the overall condition of the vehicle is OK?
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Yes if it has been looked after. Many diesels because they are reliable and don't break down as often, don't get the service attention all vehicles need and are driven into the ground. So you have to be careful what you choose. But a well maintained diesel will be a far better bet than a well maintained petrol engine. Because they don't have as much to go wrong.
 
...But part of the fun or range rover ownership is fixing the faults eh?

The RV8 has a distinct noise rather different to other V8s and fuel economy isn't that much diffeent between the v8 and diesel.

Not to mention the gearboxes on the 4.0 and 2.5 are cheese. ;)
 
Henry_b said:
...But part of the fun or range rover ownership is fixing the faults eh?

The RV8 has a distinct noise rather different to other V8s and fuel economy isn't that much diffeent between the v8 and diesel.

Not to mention the gearboxes on the 4.0 and 2.5 are cheese. ;)
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You give your location as "Somewhere", is that somewhere in Cloud Cuckoo Land by any chance?:D:D
 
Anyhoooo....back to the op. As said pop (!) the manifold off and have a butchers. Did you run it very long or not at all? Maybe the situation is totally salvageable....I've got a set of picks and hooks about 12 cm long, if you use something like that you maybe able to winkle out the worst of it.
It's not the first time somebody has done this and it certainly won't be the last - on Youtube the other day i saw a guy who rebuilt a blue printed small block and managed to suck in J cloths that he forgot to remove when he put the carb on the inlet manifold. Strangely it didn't appear to do any major damage - plugs out manifold off and he managed to get the shredded bits out ok.
 
Fergie46 said:
Anyhoooo....back to the op. As said pop (!) the manifold off and have a butchers. Did you run it very long or not at all? Maybe the situation is totally salvageable....I've got a set of picks and hooks about 12 cm long, if you use something like that you maybe able to winkle out the worst of it.
It's not the first time somebody has done this and it certainly won't be the last - on Youtube the other day i saw a guy who rebuilt a blue printed small block and managed to suck in J cloths that he forgot to remove when he put the carb on the inlet manifold. Strangely it didn't appear to do any major damage - plugs out manifold off and he managed to get the shredded bits out ok.
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The clearance piston to head is much less on a diesel. A very small amount could bend the con rod. Or jamb the valve and cause it to strike the piston.
 
Last edited:
Ok, everything is now disconnected and I am ready to lift the head. I have bought an engine crane to make life a little easier for me.I am hoping it arrives tomorrow then I can assess the damage an move on.
 
Engine crane arrived this afternoon, so I put it together and tomorrow I will lift the head (nervous laugh)
 
when you are 71 with copd ,lifting cylinder heads off is not an option.I will report my findings tomorrow
 
Just lifted the head, the rag has bent a valve slightly there is a slight gap at the face about the thickness of a cigarette paper. has anyone removed a camshaft without the fancy do dah in rave.I will order a valve tonight.​
 
tarphenry said:
Just lifted the head, the rag has bent a valve slightly there is a slight gap at the face about the thickness of a cigarette paper. has anyone removed a camshaft without the fancy do dah in rave.I will order a valve tonight.​
Click to expand...

Just knock the hold down nuts off progressively and evenly. Same when tightening to replace. After refitting cam set at TDC number one firing and allow head to rest until any valves that are not supposed to be open settle back into place before refitting head. Get new valve stem oil seals old ones will be destroyed removing valves. You should get a set of refitting guards with them.
 
Hi all, rebuild is almost complete but I have a question. The final 90 degree tightening of the head bolts is done after running the engine. I presume that it should be allowed to cool prior to the tightening. it does not say in RAVE. many thanks
 
tarphenry said:
Hi all, rebuild is almost complete but I have a question. The final 90 degree tightening of the head bolts is done after running the engine. I presume that it should be allowed to cool prior to the tightening. it does not say in RAVE. many thanks
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We left it overnight to settle when we did it. Seems to have worked OK. I realise that doesn't explicitly answer your question but personal experience and all that.
 
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