Datatek
Well-Known Member
The ones you can buy are often not the same quality as the ones fitted by the factory.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
You do not know that they have all failed.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Good point. Plus the hand book states the tail gate upper should be left open to disable the EAS when lifting.
I put mine down to access height, open the tail gate and lift from there. It reduces the pressure in the suspension.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I have never bothered to change from motorway height when lifting but I do always open the tailgate. As long as there is some pressure in the system, I don't see a problem.I put mine down to access height, open the tail gate and lift from there. It reduces the pressure in the suspension.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
If you were able to raise the pressure to 40psi via emergency valves, apart from the one that is hissing, the others were obviously holding pressure.
JamesBB
Active Member
I will not know for another 2 weeks, but it only lifted maybe half an inch. I will hard wire and bypass the 2 footwell connectors first as they are so corroded. Then lift with a jack and look at the one that was hissing, then work my way around all 4.
The front driver side made a loud pop as it started to inflate, the front passenger would not move, and it was badly distorted and folded in on itself. The rears I have not seen or heard yet, too low.
The front driver side made a loud pop as it started to inflate, the front passenger would not move, and it was badly distorted and folded in on itself. The rears I have not seen or heard yet, too low.
JamesBB
Active Member
Update, but not much of one.
Emergency inflate valves removed. What air was in there was still in there as it shot out when pulling the valves.
I jumpered the EAS relay and the compressor comes on. Nothing odd there as it is brand new.
I cleaned the contacts in the multiplugs behind each kick panel with a very small file and sprayed them with contact cleaner.
Going back today to check the system can talk to the laptop ok. If not I guess I have to get busy with the soldering iron, but as I am short of time that will not be until next week.
Fingers crossed for a good connection to the system from the laptop.
One thing I noted was under each front carpet the sound deadening was soaking wet. Lifted it and propped it all up.
Need to fix the leak, suspect rain through the pollen filters as usual.
Update later or tomorrow.
Emergency inflate valves removed. What air was in there was still in there as it shot out when pulling the valves.
I jumpered the EAS relay and the compressor comes on. Nothing odd there as it is brand new.
I cleaned the contacts in the multiplugs behind each kick panel with a very small file and sprayed them with contact cleaner.
Going back today to check the system can talk to the laptop ok. If not I guess I have to get busy with the soldering iron, but as I am short of time that will not be until next week.
Fingers crossed for a good connection to the system from the laptop.
One thing I noted was under each front carpet the sound deadening was soaking wet. Lifted it and propped it all up.
Need to fix the leak, suspect rain through the pollen filters as usual.
Update later or tomorrow.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Corrosion between the pins is one problem. Not sure I like the idea of filing the pins as that will make them smaller and reduce contact pressure.
+1 on don't file the pins. Clean them instead.
apart from the PCB dry joints, I found two main issues with P38 connectors:
1. The socket contacts lose their springyness so become intermittent.
2. Corrosion on the copper wire itself inside the contact crimp. Soldering green copper wire does not work !!
apart from the PCB dry joints, I found two main issues with P38 connectors:
1. The socket contacts lose their springyness so become intermittent.
2. Corrosion on the copper wire itself inside the contact crimp. Soldering green copper wire does not work !!
JamesBB
Active Member
OK maybe filing is too strong a term. I used a very small pointy needle file to drag over the pins and scrape the corrosion off. then sprayed clean with contact cleaner.
This resulted in me getting a good idle on the link to EAS Unlock.
Engine running.
These seem to be the faults logged:
RL signal incorrect
RR signal incorrect
Vehicle has moved.
However, it only lasted that one session, after that, it was back to not idling well at all and back to the following:
I suspect this is all down to the quality of the mechanical connection around those corroded white connectors behind the passenger side kick panel as it did work, the decided not to again. No adjustments were made on the blue sliders in the picure.
while the engine was running, the compressor came on for a short time, there were also no beeps, but the 35MPH max was still there. The height indicators were initially all flashing, then settled as shown here:
From memory this is trying to give me a code but I cannot find the document or info that tells me what this combination of lights is trying to tell me. Please can somebody point me to this? What does it mean? Periodically in this state the compressor runs for a short period (maybe a minute), but nothing else happens, it keeps repeating, so every few minutes the compressor comes back on.
At this point the comms idle was still not working and I noticed unplugging/replugging the connection from the laptop to the OBDII connector stopped/started the continuous beeping, so clearly some level of connection was going on despite a bad idle.
Regarding the connectors, are there replacements available? or am I best just hardwiring and soldering the wires together and heat-shrinking?
I have been soldering for 40 years, so fully understand you cannot solder green corroded copper. It needs to be stripped back and/or bad sections replaced.
If anybody can offer more advice based on the info above it would be wonderful.
Thanks All
James
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
The connectors in the a post are best cut out and soldered the connectors are only there for factory assembly.
from your pic you have the green initialize but not green good idle.
from your pic you have the green initialize but not green good idle.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
+1 ^^^^^^^^
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
+1 here too, its a waste of time trying to clean the connectors, usually the corrosion has gone back further into the wire
Flossie
Well-Known Member
Ref soldering. If you pull the sill step covers off you can get a bit more slack on the cables. One or two? Cables have 2 cables going into 1 on the plugs, watch out for that, I did one at a time so no cock ups. Use glue lined heatshrink. I didn't know until I started the job that quality shrink tubing can come in different shrinkages ie- can shrink 2,3 maybe 4? Times it's initial diameter, makes the job much easier. The cheapy multi selection box I've had for years had to just squeeze past the soldered joint or it barely shrunk enough.
JamesBB
Active Member
Thanks guys. I am going to be busy again Saturday then. I think the EAS cables only go via the passenger side, so I will start there first.
The OBDII socket is a little corroded too. Exactly the same issue. I have a new one, plain socket and one with fly leads. I may well replace that too, it has caused me headaches before, so on this car (as many P38s) a known trouble point.
Does anybody know what the codes are for the lights? I cannot find the doc that explains it. I know it means something specific, not sure what.
Cheers
The OBDII socket is a little corroded too. Exactly the same issue. I have a new one, plain socket and one with fly leads. I may well replace that too, it has caused me headaches before, so on this car (as many P38s) a known trouble point.
Does anybody know what the codes are for the lights? I cannot find the doc that explains it. I know it means something specific, not sure what.
Cheers
Montyjohn
Well-Known Member
I've not read this entire thread, but I think your being a little unfair to your garage.
I usually do all my own work, but when I've asked for simple things from auto-electricians, like crimping on new battery terminals they refuse to do the work because they don't want a response similar to yours just because the P38 is in a bad mood that day. Lot's of places refuse basic work on these cars.
We choose to live with these grumpy cars, we need to put up with it and take responsibility when they misbehave. Which they will.
Short of cutting/drilling through an air hose, I can't think of anything that the garage could have done that they are responsible for.
If lifting it on a high lift over-extended the bags due to the wrong dampers being fitted, or moved the sensors into a dodgy region, then that's a fault with the car.
The fact that somehting packed in on the day they had it really could be just dumb luck. The fact it's been faultless for years just means you're overdue something breaking.
If it really is a failure of all four bags, then there's somehting else with with the suspension set-up that made them vulnerable to being extended.
Sorry if this sounds like I'm having a go, and maybe you've already come to this conclusion, but the quicker we accept that these things just happen, the sooner we'll be happy with our somewhat terrible life choices, and if we all follow this, garages may be more supportive with us.
The height switch lights are simple:
One light means the car is sitting at the correct height.
Two lights mean the car is above or below the target. One is the current height, and the other the target.
Four lights either solid or flashing mean you have a fault somewhere. (Also solid if you just switched the ignition on and not started yet, so the EAS isn't talking to the switch yet)
One light means the car is sitting at the correct height.
Two lights mean the car is above or below the target. One is the current height, and the other the target.
Four lights either solid or flashing mean you have a fault somewhere. (Also solid if you just switched the ignition on and not started yet, so the EAS isn't talking to the switch yet)
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