tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
I can lift it but don't think I could lift it underneath the car on to my stomach then up and forward on to the gearbox output shaft.like I did then without a jack.I was fit as feck then
Welcome to the conversation! See post #34 and #36. The question is whether anyone has tried using one. It looks pretty unstable and Borg-Warner transfer box isn't exactly a nice square shape with handles.
When I did the TB on the 110, I put a strap round the box, slipped it under the car then through the centre cubby cover slipped the strap round my neck, lifted the TB up and had both hands free to line it up and bolt on.
But that was easy cos the centre cover is four screws and you have access to the gb and tb from above on the 110!
But that was easy cos the centre cover is four screws and you have access to the gb and tb from above on the 110!
ovalandrover
Well-Known Member
ext thing you will be telling us is that you balanced gearbox on your lap slid under the car took viagra and that lifter the box 10 ins and you had both hands free to line it up
Just checking part numbers for the seals ..
Is this the right one (FTC500010) for the gearbox output seal?
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-FTC500010
And the o-rings for the gearbox oil cooler pipe union are these, FTC1441?
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-FTC1441
For some reason I was thinking one was slightly smaller but maybe I am thinking of the aircon.
Is this the right one (FTC500010) for the gearbox output seal?
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-FTC500010
And the o-rings for the gearbox oil cooler pipe union are these, FTC1441?
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-FTC1441
For some reason I was thinking one was slightly smaller but maybe I am thinking of the aircon.
Only needed 8in and no need for viagra, I am still young and full of spirit...!
To remove transfer box. (1) Obtain 110 yards of stout chain. (2) Wrap chain round transfer box twice secure with a shackle. (3) Secure other end of chain to a telegraph pole base, wrap twice secure with shackle. (4) Accelerate away from telegraph pole as quickly as possible. (5) After travelling 90 yards brace.
To remove transfer box. (1) Obtain 110 yards of stout chain. (2) Wrap chain round transfer box twice secure with a shackle. (3) Secure other end of chain to a telegraph pole base, wrap twice secure with shackle. (4) Accelerate away from telegraph pole as quickly as possible. (5) After travelling 90 yards brace.
I think I might just end up towing a telegraph pole down the hill.
Odd really, telegraph pole. Telegraph was radio based, wasn't it? The poles outside my house never took anything other than telephone yet they're called telegraph poles.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
The original telegraph was by wire.
genius.To remove transfer box. (1) Obtain 110 yards of stout chain. (2) Wrap chain round transfer box twice secure with a shackle. (3) Secure other end of chain to a telegraph pole base, wrap twice secure with shackle. (4) Accelerate away from telegraph pole as quickly as possible. (5) After travelling 90 yards brace.
Alternatively, oxy and acetylene bottles, cut a large hole in the floor and cut through the tranny box bolts leaving an alloy blob on the floor and all your problems will melt away before your eyes. Refit new one with brazing rods and polish the bird shït off afterwards.
Get somebody with a watering can incase a spark cause's a fire?
You never know...
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Fill the watering can with unleadedgenius.
Alternatively, oxy and acetylene bottles, cut a large hole in the floor and cut through the tranny box bolts leaving an alloy blob on the floor and all your problems will melt away before your eyes. Refit new one with brazing rods and polish the bird shït off afterwards.
Get somebody with a watering can incase a spark cause's a fire?
You never know...
Ah, would that be regular 96 or e10?
Would the moisture content in the E10 have a more efficient effect on the sparks?
You haven't ordered the bottles then?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Sounds about right to me, if it moves slowly with the constant application of 13 stone, worry when it doesn't move at all.pretty sure my VCU is goosed!
The only way i can make the wheel turn is if i hang my 13 stone bulk off the end of breaker bar
So i'm guessing it's the same removal procedure for the V8?
pretty sure my VCU is goosed!
The only way i can make the wheel turn is if i hang my 13 stone bulk off the end of breaker bar
So i'm guessing it's the same removal procedure for the V8?
It does move slowly. And it resists if you try to go faster.
I am replacing mine because I feel it is harder than last time I tried. That and at 150k I suspect the morse chain in the box must be tired by now. So it is preventative maintenance more than anything.
What I'll do is test the old and the new box when fitted and let you know the kind of torque required.
Ashcroft give this in their VC section, same part number for RRC & P38.
RRC, Workshop Manual, Section 41 Transfer Gearbox, Overhaul, Dismantle, Inspection & Overhaul.
You can either do this test on the bench or in the car with the handbrake on and one front wheel lifted.
Viscous unit - rolling resistance Bench check NOTE: Testing should be carried out in an ambient of 20 deg C.
1) Secure the output shaft ...
2) Apply a clockwise torque of 27 Nm to the (front propshaft) output flange nut. If no resistance to turn is felt, unit requires replacing.
3) If resistance to turn is felt, apply a clockwise torque of 20Nm to the (front propshaft) output flange nut for 1 minute, this should result in a rotation of approximately 25 deg - 30 deg. If no rotation or a greater force is required, unit requires replacing.
27 Nm = 20 lbf-ft 20 Nm = 15 lbf-ft
RRC, Workshop Manual, Section 41 Transfer Gearbox, Overhaul, Dismantle, Inspection & Overhaul.
You can either do this test on the bench or in the car with the handbrake on and one front wheel lifted.
Viscous unit - rolling resistance Bench check NOTE: Testing should be carried out in an ambient of 20 deg C.
1) Secure the output shaft ...
2) Apply a clockwise torque of 27 Nm to the (front propshaft) output flange nut. If no resistance to turn is felt, unit requires replacing.
3) If resistance to turn is felt, apply a clockwise torque of 20Nm to the (front propshaft) output flange nut for 1 minute, this should result in a rotation of approximately 25 deg - 30 deg. If no rotation or a greater force is required, unit requires replacing.
27 Nm = 20 lbf-ft 20 Nm = 15 lbf-ft
Yeah but that means removing the propshaft which is 8 bolts on your back. Most of us lift a wheel, stick a 32 mm socket on the raised wheel (or 36 mm if someone has put Sh!tpart nuts on) hub-nut and give it a turn. Problem is you have all those angles from the prop and then the diff to turn too. So it is much harder. Question is: how much harder should it be?!
