surplus
Active Member
Well enjoy yourself
myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
Now who's being sarcastic!!
Good boy
Good boy
surplus
Active Member
Not me surely
myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
Well maybe, it's ironing you guys don't do do,,lol scruffy barstewards.
its sounds like a bent chassis! Get it on a flat surface with the wheels as straight as you can. Get a tape and start by measuring from the hub center to hub center. Get it written down. Then start using bumper corners to reference each hub in relation them. This will rule out any real differences and could possibly point to misalignment in the axles. If the front wheels dont turn out to be straight then reposition them until you get a reading that becomes similar on both sides. Your rear axle should have no differences from the rear bumper or rear door hinges for example. Sounds a bit odd but these measurements will confirm to you any oddities. Only other thing if doubting the chassis is to have it on a frame to pinpoint its dimensions, which is fcuking expensive. So, you can do some homework with a flat surface yourself for free. Do you know any history of the car at all?
also if you can get a spirit level small enough to sit flat on your wheels rims to check your wheels all have the same camber in relation to each other. I.e. Both wheels on the same axle! It could help to pin point something. This car could ( but I cant say it has) have been in an accident ...
also if you can get a spirit level small enough to sit flat on your wheels rims to check your wheels all have the same camber in relation to each other. I.e. Both wheels on the same axle! It could help to pin point something. This car could ( but I cant say it has) have been in an accident ...
surplus
Active Member
Never been in an accident or anything like that.
tarphenry
Well-Known Member
There is obviously something major wrong for the vehicle to behave this way. Unless you have owned the car from new, you will have little idea of its history. I presume that Mark was onl saying to start from the beginning and take nothing for granted. you have somewhere a massive problem and until you eliminate all the possibilities ,you will not resolve the issue.
have you had a chance to investigate some dimensions?
surplus
Active Member
It will be this weekend and I will see about ithave you had a chance to investigate some dimensions?
sound, let us know how you get on buddy!
surplus
Active Member
It's seized but not causing the jerking
classic kev
Well-Known Member
I've not been watching this thread but I wonder whether or not you have checked the A frame. If there is excessive play in the ball joint and/or the bushes are shot then the back axle will be able to sway. Sorry if this has already been suggested in which case I'll go back to sleep.
myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
Don't know these machines but an A framed rear axle needs healthy mounts to counter the torque, weird rear steer would be my guess if it's worn.
Only ever had 1 live axled machination, it was cart sprung with de dion tube, prop tube and diff mounted gbox, handled epic.
Only ever had 1 live axled machination, it was cart sprung with de dion tube, prop tube and diff mounted gbox, handled epic.
surplus
Active Member
So by hub center to hub center like the center of the front wheel on the passenger side to the center of the rear wheel on the passenger side and the same for the driver then find a point such as the front bumper and measure from that to the center of the wheel and do that on both sides and see if everything is the same?
surplus
Active Member
I did all the stuff like I said above and everything came out the same.
surplus
Active Member
I think it may be the radius arms bushings they have not been replaced and thats the only thing left to do bushing wise. The a frame on the rear has a brand new ball joint and bushings we put them on b4 i started reposting on here. I thought that would have fixed it bc the ball joint was ****ed and the bushings had a little bit of movement in them but its made no difference. Getting the bushing in the US are expensive af. Its gonna cost me 80 to just get the bushings for the front and rear radius arm when if i was in the uk i could probably get it all for 20 pound lol. Anyone know a sure way of testing them before i go about replacing them.
myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
Given your issue I'd have to suggest foregoing testing and just do them.
You have removed the front prop so any weird interactions via VCU is negated, only bushings remain if your chassis isn't rotten.
In an effort to save some bucks then a big lever or fcuk of screw driver inserted between arm and mount is the usual course of action when checking bushes, but, and this a bigger but than the usual smaller but.....this usually only checks side to side play, I think you may have fore and aft play, mounting design can make it difficult to check F&A play.
A small (1/8") sideways movement in the radius arm would be acceptable, I'd want to see equivocal or less with F&A.
You have removed the front prop so any weird interactions via VCU is negated, only bushings remain if your chassis isn't rotten.
In an effort to save some bucks then a big lever or fcuk of screw driver inserted between arm and mount is the usual course of action when checking bushes, but, and this a bigger but than the usual smaller but.....this usually only checks side to side play, I think you may have fore and aft play, mounting design can make it difficult to check F&A play.
A small (1/8") sideways movement in the radius arm would be acceptable, I'd want to see equivocal or less with F&A.
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