Given your issue I'd have to suggest foregoing testing and just do them.
You have removed the front prop so any weird interactions via VCU is negated, only bushings remain if your chassis isn't rotten.
In an effort to save some bucks then a big lever or fcuk of screw driver inserted between arm and mount is the usual course of action when checking bushes, but, and this a bigger but than the usual smaller but.....this usually only checks side to side play, I think you may have fore and aft play, mounting design can make it difficult to check F&A play.
A small (1/8") sideways movement in the radius arm would be acceptable, I'd want to see equivocal or less with F&A.
Yup that's what I've dicided. Does anyone know if paddock is a good company I have emailed about a poly bushing set that would cover my front radius arms, rear trailing arms, panhard rod, rear a frame which I already replaced but it's just in the kit, shock bushings, anti roll bar links and bushings. Anyone got anything else I could have a go at if I'm gonna order it from them I would rather do it in one shipment as it's gonna cost me in shipping.
 
Yup that's what I've dicided. Does anyone know if paddock is a good company I have emailed about a poly bushing set that would cover my front radius arms, rear trailing arms, panhard rod, rear a frame which I already replaced but it's just in the kit, shock bushings, anti roll bar links and bushings. Anyone got anything else I could have a go at if I'm gonna order it from them I would rather do it in one shipment as it's gonna cost me in shipping.
I've heard rubber is better than the poly bushes, personally I'd go for oem-its lasted 20 odd years then replace with the same.
 
Alright will all that listed cover any sway caused by bushings
Your number 1 priority is sorting the vcu. The bushes plus a nackered vcu is gonna make tour long wheel base a dog to drive. What's it like on corners? Everything your describing so far is straight line torque related.
 
I think it may be the radius arms bushings they have not been replaced and thats the only thing left to do bushing wise. The a frame on the rear has a brand new ball joint and bushings we put them on b4 i started reposting on here. I thought that would have fixed it bc the ball joint was ****ed and the bushings had a little bit of movement in them but its made no difference. Getting the bushing in the US are expensive af. Its gonna cost me 80 to just get the bushings for the front and rear radius arm when if i was in the uk i could probably get it all for 20 pound lol. Anyone know a sure way of testing them before i go about replacing them.
these kits have every bush the vehicle needs
http://www.paddockspares.com/dc7000-britpart-yellow-polyurethane-bush-kit-discovery-1.html
 
If it was me, and I've done 5 or 6 sets now, I would bite the bullet and get new bolts and nuts washers etc at the same time, quite often the bolts are going to be a problem on the front radius arms at least. Plenty of copper coat on assembly then it will be easy to redo in 10 years time.
 
Well paddock wants 60 dollars to ship so I'm gonna try to find a kit from a us seller I checked Atlantic British but it's alittle pricey

Depending how much of a rush you're in you could post in the courier section on here. @MrGorsky might be shipping his Rangie to the States in a few months so possibly he could get the stuff across the Atlantic. Not sure how you'd get it across the States though. Might not work out much cheaper than £60 considering the time and hassle though.
 
If it was me, and I've done 5 or 6 sets now, I would bite the bullet and get new bolts and nuts washers etc at the same time, quite often the bolts are going to be a problem on the front radius arms at least. Plenty of copper coat on assembly then it will be easy to redo in 10 years time.

If he fits poly bushes he will be doing it again a lot sooner than tens years.
 
If he fits poly bushes he will be doing it again a lot sooner than tens years.
Thats as maybe, depends on usage though. But in any case if done with polys and new fixings now then the whole lot could quite possibly be changed in a single day when needed, rather than putting off what can be a time consuming job. :)
 
Thats as maybe, depends on usage though. But in any case if done with polys and new fixings now then the whole lot could quite possibly be changed in a single day when needed, rather than putting off what can be a time consuming job. :)

True but the metalastics are a lot better and last a lot longer.
 
True but the metalastics are a lot better and last a lot longer.
Yes they do last longer, quite often because people don't like changing them ;) They might well be better as well but proper polys are not bad in comparison.
In my case as I don't have access to the sort of tooling to press out/in metalastics it makes sense to me to use the polys.:):)
 
Yes they do last longer, quite often because people don't like changing them ;) They might well be better as well but proper polys are not bad in comparison.
In my case as I don't have access to the sort of tooling to press out/in metalastics it makes sense to me to use the polys.:):)

Ok use what is easiest for you. But proper metalastic bushes are several times better than poly bushes. That is why manufactures fit them instead of the much cheaper and less durable poly ones. ;);)
 
Ok use what is easiest for you. But proper metalastic bushes are several times better than poly bushes. That is why manufactures fit them instead of the much cheaper and less durable poly ones. ;);)

You are entititled to your opinion, but it isnt the same as mine! :)

Polybushes work pretty well for me, I have fitted several sets, current ones working well since 2008! :)

My mate drove all the way to Cape Town in a polybushed series, the bushes were about the only bit he didnt have issues with! :D

Polybush kits were available from the 1970s as an upgrade for Saabs that were used in unusually rough conditions!
 

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