Ahhh. Never thought of that. Loosening nuts :eek:

One more question for you, where do you source your chequerplate from? I want to skin my boot floor with it (ain't rusty or owt, just always got the dog in so want to take carpet out from under the loadspace rubber mat.)

I've had a look about and it's always seemed pricey.
 
hi paul, i bought the chequerplate as a ready mate kit off rebel4x4

it is pricey stuff though, especially aluminium or stainless.

well over 100 quid for an 8x4 sheet.

im afriad i wouldnt know where to get it, you need to speak to a local fabricators or steel stockist!

cheers.
 
i went to local steel merchants and got a 8x sheet of 4mm ally cheq for £40 so may be worth ringing around abit and asking for trade prices
 
Thanks for the replies, I want stainless, that's why it's so bleeding expensive! Will keep looking and asking around for offcuts big enough.

Once again, nice motor, loving the air lockers!
 
My commercial came fully chequer plated out :) but still dont help with the rot lol! What size are the wheels on your motor Mr noisey ??
 
Hi guys!

Yeah no doubt stainless is dear! We used some of the small print stuff to make some side panels and steps for a boat trailer. Off cuts were the order of the day!! :D

Regards the air lockers, mate, it's like chalk and cheese. It's now not a case of 'will I be able to tackle that difficult section?' but 'what's the least damaging way of driving that difficult section?'

I had an LSD in my last car, a civic, and that taught me enough to realise that standard diffs are a cost cutting device. You aint going to get anywhere near the limit with an open diff, be it an off roader or a track car.

I would recommend lockers and braided brake lines to anyone. Make them your first mods if you can afford it, you'll do far better than any suspension kit could ever manage!!

The wheels are 15x10 with -50mm offset mate, from garageand4x4.com , a really nice guy called Craig. They do a few other nice bits, beadlockers n all (something im looking at for the future)

The gammatronix battery monitors are off eBay mate, do a search for battery monitor or volt meter. They are about 25 pound each I think, very well made and do a top job. There are various different types available in their eBay shop.

Cheers, sam :)
 
Do you press a big button to start it?

If no then it's not finished:D

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There you go mate :D
 
Also, after a pay and play at the weekend that was more like a winch challenge, today fitted:

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Yeah tbh mate i did think about a marginally comedy button, but then i thought 'dont be silly' :D

I tried the button again this morning... does feel very exciting pressing a button to start it.

I will use the key normally, so the button should maintain it's novelty for a long time :D
 
hi, just noticed this post. must say your disco looks bloody ace. have to get xmas out of the way, then start altering mine.
steve
 
Yeah tbh mate i did think about a marginally comedy button, but then i thought 'dont be silly' :D

I tried the button again this morning... does feel very exciting pressing a button to start it.

I will use the key normally, so the button should maintain it's novelty for a long time :D

Noisy, this is mine although tbh only fitted it as low cost fix, was broken into with previous owner resulting in busted ignition barrel..

photo-1326.jpg
 
hey, still looks the part though!

ahem, im assuming that is an ignition switch and a start button? :eek:

does it still require the immobiliser to start, or???
 
picked up a heated screen out of a 300 shape today :)

my heater box is full of mud, so the heat it puts out is weak at the best of times and the fan rarely works.

the solution i thought? flick a switch and wear a coat.

will post up pics etc of the interesting bits :D

cheers
 
So, updates...

I have spent time/money recently addressing things that I felt I needed rather more than wanted. I was fed up of the crap sound system in the Disco, as I was just running front door speakers. I thought "hey, it's only an offroader" but tbh I decided I wanted to have some more fun in the car too so some sounds would be good!

Thus:

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Yep, you guessed it, a cheeky 10" subwoofer! I picked up the sub cheap on eBay, and the rest of the bits I had lying around in the cellar from previous installs.

Cost me about 50 in total and sounds great!! :D

I also added some rear speakers in pods to match up with the front door speakers:

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The mid speakers are powered by the headunit, and with the bass turned down and then the amp for the sub set accordingly, the sound is remarkably good! I spent a lot of money on a system in a car once, spent ages setting it up properly, and to me it didn't sound a grand better than this cheapo job. As such I'd recommend it to anyone!

Wiring wise, i didnt want to run wires to the back of the car - because the floor area gets a beating. I could have run them in the roof, but instead picked up power from an unused auxiliary power supply provided for the White towing socket. This was in the rear corner blanket off, and has it's own fuse in the fuse box. Ideal supply for my small amp! I also got a speaker to phono converter from Halfords, so I could link up to the rear speaker wires to provide a signal for the amp, rather than having to run a phono cable from the head unit.

Otherwise, the heaters in a 200 shape are pretty average, and cos mine had been often filled with muddy water, they were even worse still. I decided to fit a heated screen from a 300 shape. This turned out to be quite a PITA because the 300 screen is taller but narrower, too narrow to bond into a 200 but too tall to use the 200 rubber.

In the end I had to hammer down the fitting lip atop the firewall, and grind about 1/4" off it in the centre 50%. With a lot of swearing me and my bro eventually squeezed it in with my original gasket. We then emptied a tube of sealant all around the seal, to take up the gaps. I think I have 1 tiny leak, which i am in no way bothered about!

I had to make up my own wiring, so I got another 200 heated rear window switch to use, and a warning lamp from Halfords:

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The heated screen has a left and right circuit, so I made up two separate circuits, one for each side. The switch connects to both relays, which are separately fused. I first fitted 15A fuses, which did not blow, but got so hot in use they melted themselves, as did 20A, so I settled on 30A per side which seems to work just fine. Power is supplied directly front the bulkhead fitting where live enters the cabin from the engine bay.

I was working on a Jag X Type the other day with a faulty screen, this was just a corroded connector, but I noticed that ran 30A fuses each side for a similar size screen, so i was happy that the Disco was probably ok too.

Heres the relay setup:

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And the final problem was the handbrake, generally being useless **** due to mud, and me being fed up of rebuilding it all the time. Hence I completed my saving and finally plumped for an X-Brake.

I just fitted it this evening, took me two hours approx. Fitted fine with no probs, mud in the eye was the worst thing.

Far better so far cos it actually works, and doesn't jam on!

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So that concludes my story for today, hope I didn't bore everyone, maybe some or you found it interesting!! :D

Cheers, sam.
 
WTF......Absolutely spot on mate, I love it.
I'm restoring/building a 300 just now and your project has given me some much needed inspiration to get cracking this Winter.
Superb.....
 

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