discomark10
Well-Known Member
lovely braid you have there 
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
RobP
Active Member
Why thankyou
Nobody else seems to think so!
Don't tease us with the smallest hoses then. Get on with it so we can admire some proper braid porn!
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
Don't tease us with the smallest hoses then. Get on with it so we can admire some proper braid porn!
That'll be the weekend then...
someone forgot to order the banjo bolts... :behindsofa:
RobP
Active Member
That'll be the weekend then...
someone forgot to order the banjo bolts... :behindsofa:
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
You got it!
Rang Dave at llama and was like "not sure whose fault that was?!"
He said he is so busy organising stuff for the show he forgot to include washers for the banjos but it's my fault for not asking for bolts!
DOH!
anyway hopefully Royal Mail is on my side and something turns up quick snap
Having no brakes is a PITA!
Rang Dave at llama and was like "not sure whose fault that was?!
"He said he is so busy organising stuff for the show he forgot to include washers for the banjos but it's my fault for not asking for bolts!
DOH!
anyway hopefully Royal Mail is on my side and something turns up quick snap
Having no brakes is a PITA!
robbh
Crazier than a box of frogs on acid
Some folk are experimenting with rubbing down chrome swivels and filling them with chemical metal to remove pits then spraying them with a quality acrylic/epoxy paint to smooth them over, with good results.
Regards stub axles, no preference, doesn't seem to be a breakable item.
I have just fitted 4x bearmach so I hope that is true anyway!
Disco 200 rear stub axles are expensive! FRC4320 fits and is cheaper but uses a different lock washer style.
Not sure on price of disco 200 front as have just fitted AEU2522 cv which uses FRC4320 stub axle anyway.
If disco 200 front stubs are cheap then ok to fit 4x fronts all round.
Use RTC3511 inner hub seal, ditch the outer seal, lightly grease your wheel bearings for initial lube and allow your hubs to run in axle/swivel oil
Also do not use one shot swivel grease, use ep90 as originally intended
Use Corteco FTC3401 swivel seals, but must make sure swivel balls are good or oil will leak
This setup works as a complete system, post up if you have queries, getting one part if it wrong could end up in some components without proper lubrication.
Good luck
Hey sam.
Sorry to back peddle the thread a bit but i have a question.
Just in the process of rebuilding a couple of 300tdi axles I've converted to fit leaf springs and would like to try this but still a little confused after reading it a fair few times
I've sussed it for the rear axle, just lose seal FTC3145. (internal stub axle seal)
But front axle is confusing me a bit
do i need to lose one seal or two? So far as i can tell there's an oil seal on the inside of the swivel ball and another just after the cv joint roller bearing are these the seals i need to get shot of to run in oil. And is the dust cap on the end if the drive shaft sufficient to keep oil in the hub if the hub were running in axle oil?
Apologies for sounding dumb but would like to get this right
Cheers
Rob
PS. Those brake lines look very sexual
discomark10
Well-Known Member
I'de also like to add a question to robs, how do you go about filling the oil?
Do you fill from diff and wait for it to drain into the swivels?
and what level do you go with?
Do you fill from diff and wait for it to drain into the swivels?
and what level do you go with?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
swivels are filled through a filler bung on the swivel housing ,theres no level plug on later housings as filled with a premeasured amount of one shot grease ,though its possible to fill with oil and use a stick to guage level which is steering arm height (half way up ball)
quattro6999
New Member
Never managed to get the filler plug out on any of mine, usually I leave to top swivel pin out and fill through there with 1 shot stuff.
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
Hey sam.
Sorry to back peddle the thread a bit but i have a question.
Just in the process of rebuilding a couple of 300tdi axles I've converted to fit leaf springs and would like to try this but still a little confused after reading it a fair few times
I've sussed it for the rear axle, just lose seal FTC3145. (internal stub axle seal)
But front axle is confusing me a bit
And is the dust cap on the end if the drive shaft sufficient to keep oil in the hub if the hub were running in axle oil?
Apologies for sounding dumb but would like to get this right
Cheers
Rob
PS. Those brake lines look very sexual
No worries dude I'm glad you asked.
Yep rear axle is more simple, remove halfshaft seal in the stub axle and fit seal RTC3511 to the inside of the hub, depth to 4mm.
That setup lets axle oil to the bearings and you're winning, the RTC3511 hub seal is a double garter spring seal sinus very good at retaining the oil.
The front, if you imagine, from the stub axle outwards is identical to the rear axle, simply stub axle bolted on, hub fitted to stub, caliper on and drive flange.
Therefore on the same token all you are doing is removing the stub axle seal and fitting RTC3511 to the hub, nice and easy.
Where you are becoming confused is the extra things like the cv thrown in there aswell.
Essentially the swivel and cv are part of a different system to the hubs so we don't actually need to worry about them, but of course the swivel does come into play because as you say, it requires oil in it just like the rear axle does instead of swivel grease that land rover now specify
Unfortunately later swivel knuckles don't have drain and level plugs as James says, land rover were happy with their bodge grease so stopped tapping the knuckles out
You COULD find a pair of early 24 spline knuckles, that's the ideal solution. Otherwise I think they take around 700ml of oil.
The trouble with not having drains is that, well, you can't drain the oil.
This is something you'll want to do quite regularly, why not, it keeps your cvs and bearings happy.
You could drain through the bottom swivel pin bolts, just pop one out, and maybe use a middle swivel seal retainer bolt for a level? Check to see if they are drilled through into the housing.
Otherwise simply drill and tap and 1/8bsp hole somewhere level with the lock stop bolt and use that for your level check
Anyway I digress.
Some people remove the half shaft seal in the swivel ball itself to allow axle oil to mix with swivel oil and thus allow lots if oil to gush in to flush out the wheel bearings regularly BUT that's not for me, off road on and angle it would allow your swivel to drain which could then dry out your cv, not good. Leave the seal in the swivel ball.
With all these mods there are things to watch out for.
Ie, when changing oils or particularly first fill, your hubs will be dry, so when filled, go for a drive to slosh oil into the hubs, but then go back and refill levels.
Your hubs will sit in oil up to the depth of the stub axle hole, so this could empty your swivels a little bit.
Regards drive members, don't run your cvs too tightly shimmed, it won't allow much oil to get into the hubs, let them have a bit of play.
Your cv splines will never be happier running in oil, no more dry fretted splines of rusty red paste on your bearings, you'll love it.
The dust caps will be sufficient, they may weep a bit, fit decent quality new ones if in doubt.
Better still fit HD drive flanges, they have a screw on cap with and O ring.
Hope that helps, don't hesitate to ask for more info
robbh
Crazier than a box of frogs on acid
No worries dude I'm glad you asked.
Yep rear axle is more simple, remove halfshaft seal in the stub axle and fit seal RTC3511 to the inside of the hub, depth to 4mm.
That setup lets axle oil to the bearings and you're winning, the RTC3511 hub seal is a double garter spring seal sinus very good at retaining the oil.
The front, if you imagine, from the stub axle outwards is identical to the rear axle, simply stub axle bolted on, hub fitted to stub, caliper on and drive flange.
Therefore on the same token all you are doing is removing the stub axle seal and fitting RTC3511 to the hub, nice and easy.
Where you are becoming confused is the extra things like the cv thrown in there aswell.
Essentially the swivel and cv are part of a different system to the hubs so we don't actually need to worry about them, but of course the swivel does come into play because as you say, it requires oil in it just like the rear axle does instead of swivel grease that land rover now specify
Unfortunately later swivel knuckles don't have drain and level plugs as James says, land rover were happy with their bodge grease so stopped tapping the knuckles out
You COULD find a pair of early 24 spline knuckles, that's the ideal solution. Otherwise I think they take around 700ml of oil.
The trouble with not having drains is that, well, you can't drain the oil.
This is something you'll want to do quite regularly, why not, it keeps your cvs and bearings happy.
You could drain through the bottom swivel pin bolts, just pop one out, and maybe use a middle swivel seal retainer bolt for a level? Check to see if they are drilled through into the housing.
Otherwise simply drill and tap and 1/8bsp hole somewhere level with the lock stop bolt and use that for your level check
Anyway I digress.
Some people remove the half shaft seal in the swivel ball itself to allow axle oil to mix with swivel oil and thus allow lots if oil to gush in to flush out the wheel bearings regularly BUT that's not for me, off road on and angle it would allow your swivel to drain which could then dry out your cv, not good. Leave the seal in the swivel ball.
With all these mods there are things to watch out for.
Ie, when changing oils or particularly first fill, your hubs will be dry, so when filled, go for a drive to slosh oil into the hubs, but then go back and refill levels.
Your hubs will sit in oil up to the depth of the stub axle hole, so this could empty your swivels a little bit.
Regards drive members, don't run your cvs too tightly shimmed, it won't allow much oil to get into the hubs, let them have a bit of play.
Your cv splines will never be happier running in oil, no more dry fretted splines of rusty red paste on your bearings, you'll love it.
The dust caps will be sufficient, they may weep a bit, fit decent quality new ones if in doubt.
Better still fit HD drive flanges, they have a screw on cap with and O ring.
Hope that helps, don't hesitate to ask for more info
Wow!
An explanation and then some Thank you very much for the very in depth reply dude I'm sure it will help no end!
Definitely a lot simpler than i thought.
And i believe i have 2 pairs of early 24 spline knuckles with filler and drain plugs yet the check the second axle properly but pretty sure as both are from '95 discos.
I did have the horrible red paste you talk about in the front axle i have stripped down at the moment and the top swivel pin was the same. Hence following with this mod with mine.
And as for drive flanges i think i may order a HD set just as piece of mind
Again thanks it's very much appreciated and I'll let you know how i get on
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
Regards drive flanges Ashcroft HD are the beasts, they do 3 different versions but all come in at 90 quid plus vat per pair so are expensive
There are other brands available for 24 spline that will be ok, but you don't know what material they are made of.
They are unlikely to be worse than stock though, and have the O ring setup.
Be careful to not fit worn cv splines to new flanges or your new flanges will suffer, so fit new cvs if necessary
Cheers
There are other brands available for 24 spline that will be ok, but you don't know what material they are made of.
They are unlikely to be worse than stock though, and have the O ring setup.
Be careful to not fit worn cv splines to new flanges or your new flanges will suffer, so fit new cvs if necessary
Cheers
