brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
Wtf?? I sawed 9/10 of the waterpump shaft, then when i was gonna rotate the viscous nut abit to ease it off, it JUST CAME LOOSE???4 hours of sawing, and then it just comes lose when i just try to rotate it????? BRUH
Well at least its of you dont have to struggle getting the stub out, probably a combination of a bit of heat from the cutting and the vibration has loosened ot off
now the work can begin
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Wtf?? I sawed 9/10 of the waterpump shaft, then when i was gonna rotate the viscous nut abit to ease it off, it JUST CAME LOOSE???
Well it is a Land RoverWtf?? I sawed 9/10 of the waterpump shaft, then when i was gonna rotate the viscous nut abit to ease it off, it JUST CAME LOOSE???
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
LooneyZone classic,
page 7 and it forled oft!
page 7 and it forled oft!
Well.
Ive fitted a new waterpump, and old pulley (all torqued up)
New idler pulley
New AC tensioner pulley
New tensioner
However, when i installed my new tensioner pulley the threads in the tensioner bracket said bye bye to me (Yes i used a torque wrench at right torque (50NM)
I assume i must order myself a new bracket...
In the box with the new tensioner it was a paper saying/picturing i haf to strech out the tensioner 3 times for a duration of 5-10 seconds before sttarting the engine?
Is it just me or are theese tensioners a damn fight to stretch? I can barely move the old and the new one. (using force with a small prybar)
(can i also renew my AC pulley on compressor?? it grinds...)
Ive fitted a new waterpump, and old pulley (all torqued up)
New idler pulley
New AC tensioner pulley
New tensioner
However, when i installed my new tensioner pulley the threads in the tensioner bracket said bye bye to me
(Yes i used a torque wrench at right torque (50NM) I assume i must order myself a new bracket...
In the box with the new tensioner it was a paper saying/picturing i haf to strech out the tensioner 3 times for a duration of 5-10 seconds before sttarting the engine?
Is it just me or are theese tensioners a damn fight to stretch? I can barely move the old and the new one. (using force with a small prybar)
(can i also renew my AC pulley on compressor?? it grinds...)
..
View attachment 251868eek.. Just for future reference, cut it between the pulley head and pump body
i think that would be more struggle as theres not much space. It was mounted in the engine, not in the vice.
****work anyhow. Almost bougth a sawsaw for it, even tho it might not have fit.
but hopefully never again… im gonna coppa slip that fekker.
nice drawing
That's why you pull the rad out and unbolt the pump with the fan on it and then you have the ease of cutting it off.
then i had to cut of my gearbox cooling adaptor down at the rad. So alot of cutting anyhow. Hopefully no more cutting
Well.
Ive fitted a new waterpump, and old pulley (all torqued up)
New idler pulley
New AC tensioner pulley
New tensioner
However, when i installed my new tensioner pulley the threads in the tensioner bracket said bye bye to me
I assume i must order myself a new bracket...
In the box with the new tensioner it was a paper saying/picturing i haf to strech out the tensioner 3 times for a duration of 5-10 seconds before sttarting the engine?
Is it just me or are theese tensioners a damn fight to stretch? I can barely move the old and the new one. (using force with a small prybar)
(can i also renew my AC pulley on compressor?? it grinds...)
The tensioner has an oil filled damper so slow steady pressure with a long screwdriver should be enough to compress it enough to pop the belt on or off.
Your getting there and that's all that mattersthen i had to cut of my gearbox cooling adaptor down at the rad. So alot of cutting anyhow. Hopefully no more cutting
I just had to spice this all up again I took out the thermostat housing bolts 1 by 1, the last sayd a high pitch metal sound and woops bolt snapped now i have a bolt which sticks about 1cm or less out of the "block"
So fun
Anyhow, i noticed that my thermostat had a breather hole, but instead of being 12 a clock, this was 6 a clock????
Guess i gotta buy myself a screw extractor set?
I tried to hit it with a flatdriver and a hammer but it doesnt seem to bulge. I have put penetrating fluid on it for now.
I took out the thermostat housing bolts 1 by 1, the last sayd a high pitch metal sound and woops bolt snapped now i have a bolt which sticks about 1cm or less out of the "block" So fun
Anyhow, i noticed that my thermostat had a breather hole, but instead of being 12 a clock, this was 6 a clock????
Guess i gotta buy myself a screw extractor set?
I tried to hit it with a flatdriver and a hammer but it doesnt seem to bulge. I have put penetrating fluid on it for now.
You need a good pair of little molegrips, bite then as hard as you can into the bolt and apply some penetrating fluid and then heat gently the base metal and you could get it out without having to drill...I just had to spice this all up again
So fun
Anyhow, i noticed that my thermostat had a breather hole, but instead of being 12 a clock, this was 6 a clock????
Guess i gotta buy myself a screw extractor set?
I tried to hit it with a flatdriver and a hammer but it doesnt seem to bulge. I have put penetrating fluid on it for now.
^^ +1You need a good pair of little molegrips, bite then as hard as you can into the bolt and apply some penetrating fluid and then heat gently the base metal and you could get it out without having to drill...
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
+1 and the heat from the welding will help.Weld a nut on the end of the bolt
