RangeRoller dt said:
i have an alternative method that will vent all that anger :p
(replacement pump required :D)
Click to expand...

idk why but i feel like you want me to chop of parts of my waterpump and put it in my vice and fiddle with it outside the car instead..

I am not far away from that :eek:

and tbh, this thread is about changing my waterpump (+ belts, and thermostat), so my replacement pump is indeed in my garage ;) + a ****part pump i mistakedly got sent.


Is it easy to saw trough the outer part of waterpump, right before the viscous fan? + maybe a few cm to spare so my vice has something to grab to?
 
synchro said:
i fiddled with crowbars etc... afraid to break the head of the bolt by using waaay to much pressure.... ill give it a hammer time tmw again. Nice to get some agression out anyhow :p
Click to expand...

Have you got a bar you could make some slots in to slide over the bolts to hold it in place?

The tool just has a hook to catch under one bolt and then a pivoting leg to jam against the opposing bolt. Has to be thin as there isn't much space. Remember to slide some cardboard down the back of the rad to protect the fins while you're fiddling.

32mm spanner rings a bell. Reverse thread so loosens the opposite way than you'd expect.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Have you got a bar you could make some slots in to slide over the bolts to hold it in place?

The tool just has a hook to catch under one bolt and then a pivoting leg to jam against the opposing bolt. Has to be thin as there isn't much space. Remember to slide some cardboard down the back of the rad to protect the fins while you're fiddling.

32mm spanner rings a bell. Reverse thread so loosens the opposite way than you'd expect.
Click to expand...

It's not my garage, and its really not much usefull things there. Just a bunch of thin copper pipes (which obviously just bends)

After some investigating in RAVE ( i think i've got rave atleast, has a green first page?) it seems like LRT-12-093 should fit the 2.5dse .... so im telling island 4x4 to just ship it. i just want it now.

The drivebelt/waterpump is making some hefty noise...
 
synchro said:
It's not my garage, and its really not much usefull things there. Just a bunch of thin copper pipes (which obviously just bends)

After some investigating in RAVE ( i think i've got rave atleast, has a green first page?) it seems like LRT-12-093 should fit the 2.5dse .... so im telling island 4x4 to just ship it. i just want it now.

The drivebelt/waterpump is making some hefty noise...
Click to expand...

Mine certainly works on the v8 as well. I think it will work on a number if cars to be honest.
 
well, the special tool didnt work. I dont know why rave says its the correct tool when its not? OOr am i using it wrong? Island4x4 said it didnt fit on the p38 diesel yet its the correct part number from rave so waaat??
Ive started drilling holes in the tool.... so i guess i am making my own tool on the wrong tool, making it a multi tool :eek:

This is what i bougth 1 x Viscous Coupling Holding Tool V8/TDS/2.5 TD /300TDI LRT-12-093 (LRT-12-093) = £70.00

It looks like the attatchment ive added. 5x horse shoe bolt openings and the other is a flat thingy.
The flat thingy fits just about on the outside of the bolts, but is a pain in the ass to actually hold still...
So ive started modding the horse shoe end, drilling new holes for the bolts on the pulley...

Jesus what a difficult viscous fan.. I even used a huge adjustable wrench which is easy 2KG, and smacked the **** out of the viscous connection. Won't budge.

The only thing which happends when i hold/hammering is that it un-tensions the drive belt (i can actually pull the drive belt off, by just holding the spanner on the viscous fan tiighly, but it obviously won't go all the way off due to the viscous..

But my main objective is to change water pump :oops:

Why is this such a bugger guys :oops: I can with honesty say i am smacking it real good. Because my fan shroud tasted abit smacking and yeah.. abit plastic is gone :confused:

Used plenty of penetrating fluid, and rust dissolver. I've tried to shock the threads with a blunt tool.

I tried to fit my bayo/tiger saw down there, to tight :(

Car is not in a proper driveable condition after all my fan belt and waterpump abuse now :oops:

I know heat was suggested, but since its so much plastic and rubber there i dont know...

Picture of my attempt of making the tool... Hard to drill tru..


By the way, the tool says the horseshoe is for the petrols, and the flat ends are for the diesel, but i dont understand how that would even work, they just dont get a good grip at all, and falls right off of at any, any pressure.


THIS IS THE LINK TO THE TOOL https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/viscous-coupling-holding-tool-v8tds25-300tdi-lrt12093-p-6728.html
 

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Just a guess but the adjustable spanner mechanism thread might be absorbing the hammer shock, I think I’d be looking at fixed heavy 32mm spanner and wedges or something to lock the pulley. But having said that I’ve only got v8 experience :rolleyes: Definitely hitting it in same direction as fan spins?
 
Stufer said:
Just a guess but the adjustable spanner mechanism thread might be absorbing the hammer shock, I think I’d be looking at fixed heavy 32mm spanner and wedges or something to lock the pulley. But having said that I’ve only got v8 experience :rolleyes: Definitely hitting it in same direction as fan spins?
Click to expand...

will try to wedge the pulley and belts with cloths etc, and use a torch for a minute or two after work.

i know this is not lefty lousy :)

One thing… when i turn the belt etc around, i am noticing it does not impact the ac belt. Should the ac belt be «fixed» to the drive belt? Aka when one of the belts turns, the other shall too? Crankshaft pulley is in 2 seperate pieces/bearing?

will try to aqquire a heavy fixed 32MM

i will use the torch for a min or two and then **** on it with the 32, never used heat on my car before, but on other metal stuff, so this will be fun, and who knows maybe a torch is a need to have tool?
 
The ac belt is a should turn when the crank pulley is turned, the crank pulley is two piece but bonded for vibration
 
brianp38dse said:
The ac belt is a should turn when the crank pulley is turned, the crank pulley is two piece but bonded for vibration
Click to expand...

oh oh :eek:
Might my vibration damper be a goner? Should i check if theres play in the crankshaft pulley? I dont think there was any play in it tbh..

If i get the viscous off im gonna start the engine without the belts to see if it is pulley related or internal… Pretty sure its the water pump tho as the sound got worse after i had a go at it :D
 
The horse shoe, I guess, locates over the pully bolt heads like my homemade one does? The bolts are not equal spacing if you are aware? It looks bizarre having an open end on the same tool when you need to use both ends at the same time, is the open end 32mm?
 
The horse shoe, I guess, locates over the pully bolt heads like my homemade one does? The bolts are not equal spacing if you are aware? It looks bizarre having an open end on the same tool when you need to use both ends at the same time, is the open end 32mm?
 
i couldnt get my blow torch down towards the nut.. rip...


Your picture @Flossie gave me an idea, to use the flat end on the outer side of all the bolts, then levering/resting it towards the tensioner.

Or will this result in me 100% needing a new tensioner bracket? the roundy fat thing looks sturdy ay?

Im really dumb founded how this viscous fan wont come off. It has soaked in penetrating and rust dissolver fluids for days!

May i just need a more heavier 32mm spanner?? I mean, the one i've got is fairly light. Stupid me buying from fleebay??

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281984488186?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Gosh, this fan has been the hardest problem i've faced on this range rover, and it is quite making me mad now that it slowly is crawling winter time :eek:

I tried with an adjustable already, a fairly heavy one, but as someone said it just absorbs the shock i guess? as it just adjust itself out abit?

I ain't got a welder so can't weld it shut either, but gosh that would fit great.

I obviously want to fix it up fast and drive it :p Gotta have it easy in the winter o_O
 
And yes @Flossie the horse shoe almost fits, but the holes wont line up, + theres 1 extra hole.. Its apparently for the petrol engines.. and yes i've turned the bolts around to check it if fits, but its a no go. Best i can do is make 2 holes and cut off the rest of the shoe..

the diesel side of the pulley holder tool feels/looks like a 36. It fits OK on the outside of all the bolts, but just pops off when i hit with the hammer.. as is why i wonder if i can rest it on the tensioner?

One alternative would be to cut off one of the flat sides and make 2 holes in the other flat side.. I've just made 2 holes in the shoe'

But i feel like i am indeed coming short with this viscous fan spanner, atleast whiles the pulley hold tool is there! hard to smack then!
 
I think I drilled 11mm holes and it just fitted over the bolt heads, only 2 of them. All I did was squeeze the tool and the spanner together and it undid. I was quite surprised really as tw@tting the spanner without the tool did nowt.
The tensioner is very fragile, cast alloy.
I can send you my tool and spanner if you promise to send it backo_O
 
Uhm, I migth actually say yes thank you to that @Flossie , but i will first try to make the tool myself off the 70£ chunk of metal i got :D
Im drilling 11.5mm holes as ive rounded mine abit, and prob not gotten the measurement 100% as its down there....

I'll pm you my adress tho Flossie.
 
Use your new pump as a guide to making the tool.
I put masking tape over the pump flange, rubbed it firmly then removed it to give a template with hole positions.
 
I still recon you need a proper long drop forged tight fit 32mm spanner to shift this, so the energy of whacking it at the top gets transferred to the nut. Just hope the modified tool holds the bugger still while doin it o_O
 
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