Guy Prince
Member
When I get more than five mins I'll get the fuel and coolant temp senders changed out.
I need to find the map sender too.
I need to find the map sender too.
The MAP sensor is on the end of the pipe you just put under the manifold. Right in the middle of your photo.
Guy Prince
Member
Bizarre place to put it.
So the only one I need to find now, which affects power apparently is the intake temp sender ((is that right ?)they gum up or block)
So the only one I need to find now, which affects power apparently is the intake temp sender ((is that right ?)they gum up or block)
Under front of manifold.
Guy Prince
Member
Thank you.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Guy Prince
Member
His appearance or "its" appearance ?
Guy Prince
Member
Chavtastic skills
Guy Prince
Member
Found it !
This made it easy...
it was yucky.
Really yucky!
But a nice little clean and application of brake cleaner and it's made a healthy difference,not amazing but the combination has definitely helped the pick up.
This made it easy...
it was yucky.
Really yucky!
But a nice little clean and application of brake cleaner and it's made a healthy difference,not amazing but the combination has definitely helped the pick up.
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Found it !
This made it easy...it was yucky.Really yucky!
But a nice little clean and application of brake cleaner and it's made a healthy difference,not amazing but the combination has definitely helped the pick up.
Really? Wouldn't have thought it would affect that much. Maybe I'll try yanking mine out and giving it a damn good polish.
Guy Prince
Member
It was caked in ****e and I think the combination of the map sensor pipe and this have pepped it up. I wouldn't say it's race car quick as that'll never be but there's a definite extra punch but it's comparitively still a slug. The new turbo, larger fmic and remap at pendle performance will(should) kick that to the kerb. My aim is to have it perfect before then.
myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
Is that called a stage zero tune?
Un-gremlining the thing before whacking a chip in her?
Good call, you'll have already checked yer big ends/thrust washers/ converter/g/box/diff bearings and brakes I presumes,
Just pulling yer leg,
who needs brakes
Un-gremlining the thing before whacking a chip in her?
Good call, you'll have already checked yer big ends/thrust washers/ converter/g/box/diff bearings and brakes I presumes,
Just pulling yer leg,
who needs brakes
Guy Prince
Member
Is that called a stage zero tune?
Un-gremlining the thing before whacking a chip in her?
Good call, you'll have already checked yer big ends/thrust washers/ converter/g/box/diff bearings and brakes I presumes,
Just pulling yer leg,
who needs brakes
I've been building high power vws for years and the starting point is making sure everything is as it should be before starting to meddle as you'll be building on top of someone else's cock ups.
I'm a great believer in bespoke remaps rather than whacking a chip in as you called it, even if it's got a proven end result. Pendle performance are one of the best around (they took my VW t5 lwb from 130 to 215 and just shy of 500ftlbs)
I have a set of grooved discs and new pads to fit all round nearer the time. If these don't have the desired effect I'll look at making a set of porsche brembos I have stashed fit. I have no concerns with the bottom end as it's lived a charmed and gentle life with lube changes every 6 or 7k of its 115k life. If it goes pop, so be it. The intention is only to make it strong and healthy so sub 200hp.
Some of the bimmer boys run these well over 250hp with just head issues being most common.
The box was rebuilt by ashcroft along with the transfer. I've had a reconditioned rear diff.
And brakes are for girls and losers ;-)
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myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
One thing I myself would consider if I was contemplating your goal is an oil analysis, ideally post 2-3k of the last oil change, then you'll have a true perception of your internals and their condition. Cheap way to find out if you have normal amounts wear.
Just a wee thought.
Just a wee thought.
Guy Prince
Member
That's very good idea. It's not dear even. £60 ish for peace of mind.
Ill dump the oil in the morning and look into it. It's only done 3k since august. Thank you .
Ill dump the oil in the morning and look into it. It's only done 3k since august. Thank you .
Manual box can take quite a lot. Auto box might struggle a bit more but if you can get an HP24 off the 4.6 slotted in then it should take it. Brakes should be OK as these things have awesome brakes.
I think you're right, the head is the weak point. I think these engines are already close to their limit and the pattern of heat on the head when extra fuel is thrown in can lead to micro-cracks and failure. Certainly it will find any cooling inefficiencies. Depends how much you tweak it I guess and how heavy your right foot is.
I think you're right, the head is the weak point. I think these engines are already close to their limit and the pattern of heat on the head when extra fuel is thrown in can lead to micro-cracks and failure. Certainly it will find any cooling inefficiencies. Depends how much you tweak it I guess and how heavy your right foot is.
Guy Prince
Member
I have trouble driving manuals since having a stroke in October as I have little no feeling in my left foot. After ashcroft jumped up and down on my debit card when they rebuilt my drive train I'm a little loathed to change it all now.
I'm no Lewis Hamilton and if I want fast we are fortunate enough to own an E46 M3 and a mk2 Golf Gti with a 400hp 20vt conversion so the P38 is my plod about daily and I'm loving the change of pace hugely.
I'm no Lewis Hamilton and if I want fast we are fortunate enough to own an E46 M3 and a mk2 Golf Gti with a 400hp 20vt conversion so the P38 is my plod about daily and I'm loving the change of pace hugely.
Guy Prince
Member
Waterless coolant would certainly help. It really does in my mk2 loads
