Badger
Well-Known Member
let us know when your on then fella, il be there to pass comments usefull or otherwise
Will do mate
shedchief
New Member
Typical! After really getting into this story (it's my first day as a forum member) it's over!
Bravo, Mr Wilde, Sir! What a stonkingly good journal of Land Rover ownership and fettling. It's made me feel motivated to tackle a few jobs on mine that I would not normally have even dared to take on. Great stuff!
Bravo, Mr Wilde, Sir! What a stonkingly good journal of Land Rover ownership and fettling. It's made me feel motivated to tackle a few jobs on mine that I would not normally have even dared to take on. Great stuff!
Badger
Well-Known Member
Well Virgin have royally fooked up the internet connection so it's going to be another month before that comes through, so i'm updating this as i go along.
Firstly it's time to get some pictures up of the finished (i use this word loosely! ) front bumper and here it is:
From the original bumper i cut 2 small sections that attached to the chassis with 2 tabs on either side, then folded these back and welded them to create a box section. Drilling a 50mm hole in each side i slid a 3.5mm thick steel tube through them and welded it together. Not finishing there, i then cut the ends off the 2 pieces left of the original bumper, turned them 90 degrees and welded them over the box sections i made. What i ended up with is some sort of tubular ( 50mm ) bumper.
I do have a 100mm steel bollard which i cut 500mm sections and i'm considering sliding these over the ends and welding them on, not sure if they're abit too much though....( the piece of timber is there to hold them in place to get an idea of looks only )
I have also found some steel table supports @ 75mm which i could do the same and aren't as huge! decisions, decisions.....
I've begun replacing the original fuse holders with blade types, after removing the interior furnishing/carpet/noise reducer/soft stuff, whatever it is called, i then removed the cover and plate that holds the electrical gubbins. Screwing a piece of 12mm play which was cut to the shape of the gearbox tunnel, i mounted the blade fuse holders onto this and then went about replacing each cable to the old fusebox, onto the new.
Yes it looks like an explosion in a electrical car shop, but dont panic, it all still works and has done for the past 4 months....( i will get around to finishing it, just re fitted a relay for the front fan today, so took a pic )
I was also having problems with the drivers door not shutting, the interior panel was loose so i took it off to find out why and there are 2 areas which have perished but can be repairable. Firstly the top part has cracked all along a repair weld done before, so i shall re do that:
and the bottom bolt has corroded around the plate and come away, this was repaired with a larger washer:
The bottom of the doors doesn't look too bad, the small sill inside is rotten but the actual bottom of the door is solid thankfully.
However i did notice some damage to the door itself which i cannot for the life of me figure out how it happened:
When i come to re paint the whole landy i'll take this back to metal and weld a line across to seal it up, still remains a mystery as to how it happened....
That's it for now, i have some pics of the truck cab somewhere and i'll upload them when i find them
Cheers
Firstly it's time to get some pictures up of the finished (i use this word loosely! ) front bumper and here it is:
From the original bumper i cut 2 small sections that attached to the chassis with 2 tabs on either side, then folded these back and welded them to create a box section. Drilling a 50mm hole in each side i slid a 3.5mm thick steel tube through them and welded it together. Not finishing there, i then cut the ends off the 2 pieces left of the original bumper, turned them 90 degrees and welded them over the box sections i made. What i ended up with is some sort of tubular ( 50mm ) bumper.
I do have a 100mm steel bollard which i cut 500mm sections and i'm considering sliding these over the ends and welding them on, not sure if they're abit too much though....( the piece of timber is there to hold them in place to get an idea of looks only
)
I have also found some steel table supports @ 75mm which i could do the same and aren't as huge! decisions, decisions.....
I've begun replacing the original fuse holders with blade types, after removing the interior furnishing/carpet/noise reducer/soft stuff, whatever it is called, i then removed the cover and plate that holds the electrical gubbins. Screwing a piece of 12mm play which was cut to the shape of the gearbox tunnel, i mounted the blade fuse holders onto this and then went about replacing each cable to the old fusebox, onto the new.
Yes it looks like an explosion in a electrical car shop, but dont panic, it all still works and has done for the past 4 months....( i will get around to finishing it, just re fitted a relay for the front fan today, so took a pic
)
I was also having problems with the drivers door not shutting, the interior panel was loose so i took it off to find out why and there are 2 areas which have perished but can be repairable. Firstly the top part has cracked all along a repair weld done before, so i shall re do that:
and the bottom bolt has corroded around the plate and come away, this was repaired with a larger washer:
The bottom of the doors doesn't look too bad, the small sill inside is rotten but the actual bottom of the door is solid thankfully.
However i did notice some damage to the door itself which i cannot for the life of me figure out how it happened:
When i come to re paint the whole landy i'll take this back to metal and weld a line across to seal it up, still remains a mystery as to how it happened....
That's it for now, i have some pics of the truck cab somewhere and i'll upload them when i find them
Cheers
Badger
Well-Known Member
I installed a bar set up in the rear tub for when i carry larger items for work, sheets of ply, osb, plasterboard as well as ladders, lengths of timber, drainage pipes, in fact just about anything
It took a few tries to get the correct height so that any long items rest on the rear of the tub and the bar and just miss the roof but allow stuff not to be stuck up in the air by half a mile!
Grabbing the tubing from the local tip and the brackets i created a square shape with 2 small legs facing the rear of the tub, drilled through and bolted 4 clamps in place and voila, a steady bar set up for the rear.
If i need to remove the bar ir's simply 2 hex bolts in the tub and it's then free to lift out as originally i wanted it to fold down when not in use, but it was easier and much more simple to have the base of the square and small legs permanently fixed.
It took a few tries to get the correct height so that any long items rest on the rear of the tub and the bar and just miss the roof but allow stuff not to be stuck up in the air by half a mile!
Grabbing the tubing from the local tip and the brackets i created a square shape with 2 small legs facing the rear of the tub, drilled through and bolted 4 clamps in place and voila, a steady bar set up for the rear.
If i need to remove the bar ir's simply 2 hex bolts in the tub and it's then free to lift out as originally i wanted it to fold down when not in use, but it was easier and much more simple to have the base of the square and small legs permanently fixed.
bustersbus
Well-Known Member
Dusnae look too bad mate
Badger
Well-Known Member
Ta Buster, you gonna ask me them questions in your PM then?
For today, work finished so removed the drivers door for some welding repairs, it means i've driven up and down the road with no door on and, well, it's an interesting experience!
3 bolts from the hinges came out fine, the 4th had rusted to the back plate so wouldn't unscrew, so i had to drill the fooker out, will possible replace em.
Will post pics later
For today, work finished so removed the drivers door for some welding repairs, it means i've driven up and down the road with no door on and, well, it's an interesting experience!
3 bolts from the hinges came out fine, the 4th had rusted to the back plate so wouldn't unscrew, so i had to drill the fooker out, will possible replace em.
Will post pics later
paddywagon
New Member
tombardier
Well-Known Member
I bought mine from paddocks. I stripped the paint off, and seam welded everywhere I could, because it's just got blobs of weld holding it together, and it looks like mud trap heaven hehe. Have a look at this thread on lr4x4:
Paddocks 110 Rear Crossmember - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum
It looks like they've pulled their finger out a bit since then, because mine isn't nearly so bad, but to be honest, it's not wonderful
Paddocks 110 Rear Crossmember - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum
It looks like they've pulled their finger out a bit since then, because mine isn't nearly so bad, but to be honest, it's not wonderful
Station House
Well-Known Member
Not had to buy one myself, but read lots of +ve comments on LZ about MIB Components of Warwick - do both a standard and heavy duty one I believe
Made 'mental note to self' to check them out if/when I need to
Made 'mental note to self' to check them out if/when I need to
paddywagon
New Member
instantsquid
New Member
Is there an echo in here?
Station House
Well-Known Member
That is impressively observant Ian
