Badger
Well-Known Member
Confused now, stripped the rear hub down, removed 1 oil seal, 2 inner races & bearings and a smaller seal.
Replacement kit comes with 3 oil seals ( all the same size, 2 are slightly different )...where the fook do they go? The 2nd smaller seal isn't in the kit either.., checked the numbers and they're all correct for the kit.
3 oil seals are:
FTC4785 ( i removed this one from the inner side of the hub )
RTC3511
FRC8222
any ideas whilst i google it?
Replacement kit comes with 3 oil seals ( all the same size, 2 are slightly different )...where the fook do they go? The 2nd smaller seal isn't in the kit either.., checked the numbers and they're all correct for the kit.
3 oil seals are:
FTC4785 ( i removed this one from the inner side of the hub )
RTC3511
FRC8222
any ideas whilst i google it?
Badger
Well-Known Member
think i worked it out, RTC3511 replaces the older seal of FTC 4785, this one sits up against the back of the brake housing, FRC8222 sits on the outside...thing is, i didn't remove this one as it wasn't there to start with
All sorted now, driven around today, wheel fine, no visible signs of oil or play atm, so good result, i would supply some pics but the camera ran out of batteries after 4 pics
Track rod ends tonight
Badger
Well-Known Member
Fook me, these buggers are tight!
On ramps, wheels nice n straight, removed the old track rod ends ( took a measurement first ) then copper slipped the new ones and in they went....
and now they're not going any further, i need about to reduce the whole length about another 10mm but these are proving to be the most stubborn mofo's i've ever seen. Already totalled a pair of mole grips using them to grip the track rod with a bar on the end and using another bar on the rod ends to tighten.
Any reason why they should be so damn tight? The thread is the same length, but as I'm tightening, the rod itself is getting hot, which usually means the metal is under alot of stress...
Gonna be a long night me thinks
On ramps, wheels nice n straight, removed the old track rod ends ( took a measurement first ) then copper slipped the new ones and in they went....
and now they're not going any further, i need about to reduce the whole length about another 10mm but these are proving to be the most stubborn mofo's i've ever seen. Already totalled a pair of mole grips using them to grip the track rod with a bar on the end and using another bar on the rod ends to tighten.
Any reason why they should be so damn tight? The thread is the same length, but as I'm tightening, the rod itself is getting hot, which usually means the metal is under alot of stress...
Gonna be a long night me thinks
Check the slot is clean for its full depth. Get the old ball joint, cut four hacksaw slots lengthways at 90degrees to each other and use it as a thread chaser.
Turboman
Mab An Gov
Very sorry to hear that Paul,other people i knowhave had probs too.Can you take the old TREs to a parts place so you can physically compare with new?
Badger
Well-Known Member
i managed to get one of them out and replace with a good old one, but the tracking is now out, i'll have to pick up a new rod as the other one isn't going to come out now.
Chopped 10mm off the new drag link end and it took 10 minutes to fit, typical
Why on earth would they make them 10mm longer though? Part numbers are correct from what i can tell
RTC5869
RTC5870
Now removing the towbar, welding was done in the area of the tow bar on the advisory ( within 30cm ) but after closer inspection there are a few more holes appeared.
Oh and broke my wing mirror reversing in the garage
PAS pump is leaking all over the place from what i can tell, it's the seal on the output shaft, no doubt it'll fail on that.
Chopped 10mm off the new drag link end and it took 10 minutes to fit, typical
Why on earth would they make them 10mm longer though? Part numbers are correct from what i can tell
RTC5869
RTC5870
Now removing the towbar, welding was done in the area of the tow bar on the advisory ( within 30cm ) but after closer inspection there are a few more holes appeared.
Oh and broke my wing mirror reversing in the garage
PAS pump is leaking all over the place from what i can tell, it's the seal on the output shaft, no doubt it'll fail on that.
Badger
Well-Known Member
Took a few pics of the rear area and a few rust areas when i removed the tow bar:
As i removed the first 2 bolts that hold the towbar plate to the rear xmember, the third was a little rusted, pic shows the towbar plate bent outwards
NS facing rearwards
NS again facing rearwards, this also shows the corner of the exhaust mounting bracket ( the rubber attaches to this )
OS near wiring loom, not a real issue, just slightly oversized holes where the rust has set in.
This area was welded up from the last advisory on the MOT
Some of the xmember rusted onto the towbar plate, guess it just didn't want to let go
After removal of the towbar plate, i cleaned up the hole left over, not much to weld to either side really and shows how far in the rust has set.
Another pic of the hole left after the towbar plate removal. On closer inspection, the actual metal has started to expand in the sense that it looks like the edge of a well worn book
Looking across at NS, top of the xmember
Looking across at NS
Overall it looks abit fooked, the areas on the last MOT advisory have been taken care of ( before i got her ) but given the state of the holes it could fail on structural integrity, especially on the NS.
As i removed the first 2 bolts that hold the towbar plate to the rear xmember, the third was a little rusted, pic shows the towbar plate bent outwards
NS facing rearwards
NS again facing rearwards, this also shows the corner of the exhaust mounting bracket ( the rubber attaches to this )
OS near wiring loom, not a real issue, just slightly oversized holes where the rust has set in.
This area was welded up from the last advisory on the MOT
Some of the xmember rusted onto the towbar plate, guess it just didn't want to let go
After removal of the towbar plate, i cleaned up the hole left over, not much to weld to either side really and shows how far in the rust has set.
Another pic of the hole left after the towbar plate removal. On closer inspection, the actual metal has started to expand in the sense that it looks like the edge of a well worn book
Looking across at NS, top of the xmember
Looking across at NS
Overall it looks abit fooked, the areas on the last MOT advisory have been taken care of ( before i got her ) but given the state of the holes it could fail on structural integrity, especially on the NS.
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Badger
Well-Known Member
Bet you cant beat 19 failure points and 9 advisorys...
not that you'd want to i suspect...
No not that bad!
Oki 6 failures and 3 advisories. 2 of the failures were down to me, ie i broke the mirror reversing in the garage last night and didnt tighten up 2 of the clips on the rear track rod, although it ain't going no where for sure!
To sum up, Failures:
001 - Offside Obligatory mirror seriously damaged affecting rear view.
002 - Power steering components leaking from a failed Joint
003 - (to box) Ball joint has excessive play
004 - Steering retaining device insecure
005 - Nearside vehicle structure has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting strength within 30cm of the body mountings
006 - Nearside headlamp too low
Advisories:
007 - Offside seat belt damaged but webbing not significantly weakened
008 - Rear shock has slightly worn rubber bush
009 - Steering damper bush worn/front horse shoe bushes slight play/rear crossmember corrosion.
Just looking into parts atm, with regards to the Ball joint ( steering ) it's whether to just replace the whole drop arm or use one of those kits for repair, cost of stripping it down, i may as well just replace it with a new one ( swivel joint included ofc ).
Seal kit for the bottom of the PAS where the drop arm bolts to, easy to do?
Bit of welding, new mirror, and parts above should have it sorted till next year
