Not too bad, then. Goes to show how subjective the MOT is though - my cross member wasn't as bad as yours and they still failed it. B*****ds.

I reckon it's worth going for the replacement complete drop-arm. It looks like a pain the backside to replace just the joint, and I seem to recall reading of someone who kept re-assembling joint and the circlip popping out due to the groove it sits in being worn - not good.

What welding is needed?

Ian.
 
Looked into it abit more and i'm going to replace the whole box with a recon ( including drop arm ) for £125 from the local landy place. I'm all for repairing stuff, but from what i've read the drop arm is seriously locked on, ie it'll need a hell of a puller to get it off, probably too much for the tools i have. At least with a recon part i get 12 months guarentee anorl, more than replacement seals no doubt ;)

Welding wise, it looks to be nice n simple, corrosion in the passenger footwell, pic here:



Although from what i can gather it's been welding on the inside already, unfortuantely it's covered in some sticky heat/sound proofing which i've got to remove first before getting a good look. The MOT guy couldn't see if it had been done either.
 
Not too bad then Paul , with reguard to your foot well you might as well cut it out and fit a replacement pannel for around £20 mate :) , your right about the drop arms tho there a right B*****D to get off sometimes but its your call on a new box tho .

Bet the seat belt damage is where its been shut in the door :)
Head light - shut your garage door and level it up with your drivers side beam patten .
Steering device insecure - what part ? Split pin missing ? .

All easy stuff to do tho mate :)
 
That photo of your footwell could have been mine earlier this year - I had to replace both of mine to get through the MOT. I took the wings off to get in there properly.

That price for the steering box ain't bad at all!

Ian
 
sypher said:
Steering device insecure - what part ?
Click to expand...

2 of the clamps were loose on the track rod NS and front drag link ( 1 of 2 ), it was down to the numpty who fitted it all back together...



..that was me yesterday in a rush :eek::eek: but in my defense i had actually tightened them up but they were pretty fooked so the bolts had stripped the threads on closer inspection.

I'm picking up a new rod & ends anyway ( cheap enough, £30 )

I'll give the headlight/garage door a go, i may just strip the wing down and give it a proper panel bash depending on the height difference in the beams.

Surprisingly enough, it passed emissions even though i was smoking out the garage at the time :p:D
 
Up early, day off and time to remove the steering box ready for the recon, i'll tackle the welding issue anorl today if i get time & if all goes well get it booked back in for the retest on friday.
 
Got the box off, wasn't as bad as i thought, most issues with the Landy seem to be on the NS of it, tells a tale of it being parked up on a busy or well used road for a part of it's life.

Anyway, a few pics of the removal side of the box itself:

Firstly remove the steering rod ( note lack of said rod )



Underneath ready for my removing process:




I firstly tried to remove the drag link bar, it wasn't having it, so after propping up the Landy on axle stands ( via the axles ofc ) i attempted to lift the drag link bar up with the bottle jack so the weight of the Landy body was pushing down...it didn't work :(



So i had to remove the steering box with the drag link attached as there is no room to use a puller. Emptying out the box:



Now emptyish, time to remove the draglink with a puller, as the fooker was pretty well on tight, i rigged up the puller with a clamp to stop it spreading:





and gave it some beef, and it popped off:



Next up was basically cleaning the fooker and draining anymore fluid from it, giving the drop arm a few turns emptied the rest of the liquid ( a little left but not enough to cover the counter at the local Landy place when exchanging ):







Now waiting for me mate to wake up ( been working in London on nights ) so i can whip over and pick up the recon unit and a few other bits ( mirror, new trackrod & possible steering damper )
 
Last edited:
PaulWilde said:
Rather than keep starting a thread about wtf this does or how do i do that and telling you what i did, thought i'd bung it all into one thread, nice n simples ;)

List of things to do/done ( in no particular order )


Replace Injectors ( done )
Remove standard fan and replace with an electric one ( done )
Replace front bumper
Try and panel bash front headlight surround ( done )
Replace fuel pump ( done )
Investigate and fix leak in PAS area ( see Fix Axle Leak )
Remove Steering guard ( done )
Fix/replace screen wash pump ( done )
Re do the dash with bits n bobs ( ongoing )
Fit 2 6x9 speakers in the rear somewhere ( done )
Fit a clock
Investigate and fix clunking sound on quick release of clutch ( done )
Replace Sump plug washer ( done )
Remove, investigate & fix oil leak from Timing cover ( Not to be done )
Replace air filter ( done )
Replace track rod ends ( done )
Replace glow plugs ( done )
Fit a cup holder somewhere
Remove tow bar ( done )
Fit Spotlights to front Bullbar ( done )
Investigate and remedy front near side light problem
Click to expand...

Updated :D
 
Me mate is still fookin asleep the bugger, will have to get over tomorrow at some point, glad i didn't shove the Landy out the garage too much otherwise it'd be stuck there hehe
 
Jeeze i'm a **** sometimes, the recon box was £225 and not £125....good job i had some spare cash on me :p :D


Time to fit the bugger now.
 
An interesting night, new box went in fairly straight forward enough and other than leaving the bleed nipple open whilst running it and spraying the engine bay in liquid, it seems to be sorted. The steering still feels a little vague at times, but it's late so i'll give it another look tomorrow for further bleeding.

Few pics, this one is of the new unit:



Not sure how the sticker is supposed to stay on 12 months :p



Gap where it's to go, you will notice the steering damper is abit well worn (especially on the ends ) and i was planning to pick up a new one, but after the price cock up on the steering box, i had to leave it for now. I'll be picking up a new one shortly as well as a new track rod anorl.:




Few fitted pics:







Whilst this was going on, i filtered out the oil from the previous box and system:



and the old oil empty tin:



Quick break, sausage & egg sarnies delivered by the wonderful wifey :D



After i fitted the box, i aligned the wheels the best i could and straightened up the steering wheel, then wedged it straight with a piece of wood whilst i re fitted the steering rod



Whilst bleeding the system, having a running 19J in a garage can cause ya to feel a little light headed, so i fitted an old hoover pipe to the rocker breather pipe and stuck it out the window to give me some cleaner air ( pic was taken just after i fitted it, so yeah there's some smoke already ;) )






Anyway that was all done, time to have a look at the welding needed doing. The previous owner had told me it had been done, but with a lot of insulation sticky stuff all over the footwell it was hard to see, so time to get it out.



Upon removal, the owner had indeed fitted a plate to the footwell, but rather than welding it, he'd pop riveted it with 4 rivets!







So tomorrow it's gonna be time to clean up the surface rust and paint and weld it in.

More pics of that tomorrow after my efforts :D
 
Last edited:
bustersbus said:
Comin' along nicely there mate;)
just wonderin' why ye're filterin' yer old oil??
Click to expand...


Cheers Buster, tbh you're guide was a great help, about time you got a MBE for them ;):D

I filtered it due to when draining it out, ****e around the engine bay and on the box itself got into the pan, so to be sure, gave it a filter to stop any crap being back in the system using the older oil ( used new, but topped up with older, fortunately the new pump came full of oil )
 
PaulWilde said:
Cheers Buster, tbh you're guide was a great help, about time you got a MBE for them ;):D
Click to expand...

It's ok mate, ah've got one o' them Motor Bike Entitlements on me licence already;):D:D

I filtered it due to when draining it out, ****e around the engine bay and on the box itself got into the pan, so to be sure, gave it a filter to stop any crap being back in the system using the older oil ( used new, but topped up with older, fortunately the new pump came full of oil )
Click to expand...
Glad ye used new stuff mate, it'd be a shame tae wreck yer pump if the old stuff was contaminated!
Oh, and ah found the best place fur the sticker was on me fan cowl... as it didn't last too long on the pump fur some strange reason;):D:D
 
Not being one to turn my back on trying something new, it was time to tackle some welding. I've got an arc welder and a mig, but atm i haven't got any gas or regulator for it, so it was time to try my hand on the arc.

Firstly was to prep the area, cleaning everything up i found another hole in the chassis ( sometimes leaving mud alone keeps ya in the dark about these things )





The hole in the chassis:



Pic from the footwell:



and a rather artistic pic of the hole which looks like a Landy.......yes it does.....honest:p



I cut all the rusted metal out:



Cleaned up the paint from around the area:





This was the original plate that was riveted on, so cleaned that up abit:





I attempted to weld the chassis, it's abit rough:








I also attempted the footwell as well, but i blew holes in the metal on the Landy, i tried adjusting the ampage down but i couldn't get a good line, so will leave that to the weekend when i get some gas.

Cheers
 
Last edited:
Hi Paul,
Yeah, the arc welder will be too much for thin metal like the footwells. Even with the MIG you'll need to turn the wire speed right down and work reasonably quickly (depending on what sort of power output your MIG delivers).
Good to see someone else jumping in with both feet - it's absolutely the only way to learn, I reckon :)

Ian.
 
instantsquid said:
Hi Paul,
Yeah, the arc welder will be too much for thin metal like the footwells. Even with the MIG you'll need to turn the wire speed right down and work reasonably quickly (depending on what sort of power output your MIG delivers).
Good to see someone else jumping in with both feet - it's absolutely the only way to learn, I reckon :)

Ian.
Click to expand...

Cheers for the tip Ian, i tried the arc on a scrap bit and got a decent thin line but when back in the footwell it all went pete tong ;)

How do you weld the plate on top btw, a nice bead along the edge of the plate and onto the bodywork?
 
Yeah, I cut my repair panel to fit exactly inside the existing footwell and then welded round all three sides. As I had the wings off I had good access to the backside, so also went round the join there as well. Then I slapped on some seam sealer and red oxide paint. The inside just got a coat of Hammerite.
 
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