tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
True, the rebore was on the 4.2 E Type.
True, the rebore was on the 4.2 E Type.
StuckAgainSteve
Well-Known Member
I've replaced main and big-end shells (in situ) in tired Rover V8s before and managed to get another 40K miles out of the engine before the point where the crank needs a regrind - older Rover V8s had bugger-all oil pressure to begin with so worn shells were usually the first job when the oil light started flickering at idle. They're cheap and easy to do - what have you got to lose? Worn shells are usually caused by swarf from excessive rocker arm/shaft or camlobe wear.
SpiggyTopes
Active Member
Saint - I don't know if this will help but I was in a similar position to you a few months ago.
Horrible noises, tapping etc.
Bought all the bits I thought needed doing - shells, camshaft, tappets, timing gear, oil pump gears.
When the workshop stripped the engine they found plenty of wear in no. 7 bore and other general wear.
It could have been fettled locally but with unsure outcome, so I opted for a Turner short engine. (top hats you know).
I was nervous at the expense and hadn't properly factored in the labour and additional parts like head bolts, head overhaul, valve seals gaskets etc.
I now wish I'd paid the extra for the full engine.
Good luck with it.
Horrible noises, tapping etc.
Bought all the bits I thought needed doing - shells, camshaft, tappets, timing gear, oil pump gears.
When the workshop stripped the engine they found plenty of wear in no. 7 bore and other general wear.
It could have been fettled locally but with unsure outcome, so I opted for a Turner short engine. (top hats you know).
I was nervous at the expense and hadn't properly factored in the labour and additional parts like head bolts, head overhaul, valve seals gaskets etc.
I now wish I'd paid the extra for the full engine.
Good luck with it.
Thanks for the horror story Spiggy!! 
Elected to heed the advice you fine chaps have given me, as the Crank journals look to be in OK condition (will do my best to mic them in-situ) and the bearing shells haven't spun or look to be heat damaged, I will haul the Range Rover off the road for a few days, drive the BRIGHT YELLOW FIAT 500 (and I am 6'3" and the wrong side of the BMI chart !! so will get many laughs and jibes from the Engineers at work) and order the required Main bearing shells and Big End Shells and replace those before any further damage may occur.
Oil light flickers at idle if stood for a couple minutes at the lights so pressure is leaking past the Mains and I would rather be laughed at a few times in the Fiat than pull the engine and face a huge bill.
Once the Mains and Biggies are done, in the new year I will no doubt look to the Cam and Rocker Shafts along with followers.
Love Range Rover ownership, it is what makes life less dull
Elected to heed the advice you fine chaps have given me, as the Crank journals look to be in OK condition (will do my best to mic them in-situ) and the bearing shells haven't spun or look to be heat damaged, I will haul the Range Rover off the road for a few days, drive the BRIGHT YELLOW FIAT 500 (and I am 6'3" and the wrong side of the BMI chart !! so will get many laughs and jibes from the Engineers at work) and order the required Main bearing shells and Big End Shells and replace those before any further damage may occur.
Oil light flickers at idle if stood for a couple minutes at the lights so pressure is leaking past the Mains and I would rather be laughed at a few times in the Fiat than pull the engine and face a huge bill.
Once the Mains and Biggies are done, in the new year I will no doubt look to the Cam and Rocker Shafts along with followers.
Love Range Rover ownership, it is what makes life less dull
Right, had the main bearing and one of the Big End shells out again....no size numbers stamped so can I assume they are standard??....
All they have on them is as per the photos...tried a search on the numbers and feck all turns up that can ID them as a part!
Any clues?
Also the Biggie looks rough in places, but the crank journals are groove and mark free, so looks like they haven't been spun, over heated or damaged the crank.
Also the tip for sliding the top shell out is grand, only thing is the oil way in the crank is not straight and is drilled at an angle so I had to modify the rivet to have a really short stubby tail to fit squarely!
All they have on them is as per the photos...tried a search on the numbers and feck all turns up that can ID them as a part!
Any clues?
Also the Biggie looks rough in places, but the crank journals are groove and mark free, so looks like they haven't been spun, over heated or damaged the crank.
Also the tip for sliding the top shell out is grand, only thing is the oil way in the crank is not straight and is drilled at an angle so I had to modify the rivet to have a really short stubby tail to fit squarely!
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jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
they are std and big ends worst shell will be the one in the rod not cap
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
If, as you say that the crank looks ok then I am sure that a bearing supplier can cross reference the shell numbers. I would guess that they are standard as there are no + values stamped on the shells. Good man for not driving it any further. glad the rivet tip worked
glad the rivet tip worked
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jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
presumably youll be getting stc4299 and stc1426
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
I should think so, 4299's where listed at £21.89 on the bay of E, sure they will 1426's
Did push the piston up the bore about an inch but as I had to refit so I could move the vehicle back out the workshop into the yard (I was doing this last night - got in at 2am) before the weekend shift started, I didn't want to pull the rod end shell only to find I couldn't get it back on without a faff as I hadn't taken the plugs out to make life easier!! but yes, due to the loading cycle, the top shell is bound to be much worse!
Rivet tip was sound!, yep after you chaps gave me some advice on best not to drive it, I do like to heed advice and act on it where possible.....I did get a few comments from the hairy arsed engineers I work with about turning up in a bright yellow Fiat 500 mind you..!!If, as you say that the crank looks ok then I am sure that a bearing supplier can cross reference the shell numbers. I would guess that they are standard as there are no + values stamped on the shells. Good man for not driving it any further.
ERR1773 are std big ends new number STC1426. ERR1765 does not compute but as big ends are std can't see mains being different. New number is STC4299.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Sod the engineers, they are not picking up the bill for a complete engine rebuild if you keep on driving it.
Was considering these...
Bearings Big End Con Rod V8 4.0/4.6 (STD) STC1426G Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.
Bearings Main V8 4.0/4.6 (STD) STC4299G Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.
Con Rod Cap Bolt ERR1772 Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.
And as soon as I can find a supplier of the main cap bolts, the main cap cross bolts and the sealing washers I'll add them too!
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Change con rod bolts for sure, but main bearing bolts should be fine as they are torqued and not angle tightened.
Con rod bolts a stretch (angle tightened) so need changing, main cap bolts are torqued and don't need changing. But if it suits him to change them that is up to him.
Change con rod bolts for sure, but main bearing bolts should be fine as they are torqued and not angle tightened.
Just thought it would be good practise to do so!!
Certainly on stretch bolts for sure. But the main caps for their size are not that tight so receive a lot less stress. But it's up to you. Maybe that's why you can't find a supplier because they are not called for that often.
Range Rover 2 V8 Cylinder Block Components at www.rimmerbros.co.uk
Not that tight??????
I am a fairly hefty lad, and using a 2 & 1/2 foot breaking bar I nearly popped my shoulder out trying to get the main caps undone...the big ends were fecking tight as well!!
