Saint.V8 · Nov 18, 2014

tomcat59alan said:
Yes, take off the bearing cap that's the easy one. A copper rivet of appropriate size is placed in the oil drilling in the crank and turned so the head of the rivet pushes the top half shell around till it can be removed. Replacement is the reverse. Remember there is a location notch on the shell so turn the crank in the right direction

tomcat59alan said:
Pity you didn't get the numbers off the shells, Ebay STC4299 (Think they are standard) £21.89

Great reply, many thanks! sounds simple enough even for me to do, what pitfalls if any could be encounterd?

tomcat59alan · Nov 18, 2014

Oil dripping into your eyes, do them one at a time as I posted and turn the crank at least one rev before you move to the next. Make sure the shell is seated and the cap torqued correctly. If you do it before the 27th you can pm me if you need any help, or my number

plumbfisher · Nov 18, 2014

Petethebiker's words +1 - and Saint's reply...
One word (rare for me I know!) but sincerely RESPECT

raise:

and well done Saint, hope it lasts the winter.

brianp38dse · Nov 18, 2014

should be a walk in the park for a man of your talents Ant, i like Alans tip with the copper rivet, when i did shells insitu i pushed them round with small screwdriver, biggest problem is having to do everything upside down

Saint.V8 · Nov 18, 2014

tomcat59alan said:
Oil dripping into your eyes, do them one at a time as I posted and turn the crank at least one rev before you move to the next. Make sure the shell is seated and the cap torqued correctly. If you do it before the 27th you can pm me if you need any help, or my number

Many thanks for the kind offer Alan, I won't be able to do it for a few weeks now, but I really do appreciate your offer of telephone assistance!!

Saint.V8 · Nov 18, 2014

brianp38dse said:
should be a walk in the park for a man of your talents Ant, i like Alans tip with the copper rivet, when i did shells insitu i pushed them round with small screwdriver, biggest problem is having to do everything upside down

Have to say I am fed up with having to undo sump bolts....of the whole job I did last night, the worst part by far is the working overhead lying on yer back with a ratchet and long extension bar undoing all those sump bolts!!

Appreciate your words of encouragement!

Saint.V8 · Nov 18, 2014

plumbfisher said:
Petethebiker's words +1 - and Saint's reply...
One word (rare for me I know!) but sincerely RESPECT
raise:

and well done Saint, hope it lasts the winter.

Cheers Plumb....it is only through this forum we gain strength and encouragement to tackle these things!

brianp38dse · Nov 18, 2014

cordless drill works well on lots of small bolts gives your arms a break

wil2813 · Nov 19, 2014

bloomin hell ant you've been busy ps shells are easy & for the mo just treat it to some slick 50 until you get round to changing them m8

N5Fav · Nov 19, 2014

I would get a tube of 'Graphogen' to smear on the crank journals as you fit the new bearings.

It keeps the bearings lubricated when you start the engine until the oil pressure gets up and washes it out.

wammers · Nov 19, 2014

N5Fav said:
I would get a tube of 'Graphogen' to smear on the crank journals as you fit the new bearings.

It keeps the bearings lubricated when you start the engine until the oil pressure gets up and washes it out.

Or some STP which does the same job for half the price. Stick what's left in with the new oil to give the new shells a decent start in life.

jamesmartin · Nov 19, 2014

id be checking journals ,and changing my oil more regularly,unless its done star ship miles in which case the shells wont be the only worn bits

wammers · Nov 19, 2014

jamesmartin said:
id be checking journals ,and changing my oil more regularly,unless its done star ship miles in which case the shells wont be the only worn bits

Yep for sure, when you find shells as knackered as that it's time to get the mic out.

tomcat59alan · Nov 19, 2014

wammers said:
Yep for sure, when you find shells as knackered as that it's time to get the mic out.

Bit difficult with the crank in situ Tony, Have you thought of an air wrench or wing nuts Ant

jamesmartin · Nov 19, 2014

tomcat59alan said:
Bit difficult with the crank in situ Tony, Have you thought of an air wrench or wing nuts Ant

not for the big ends

wammers · Nov 19, 2014

tomcat59alan said:
Bit difficult with the crank in situ Tony, Have you thought of an air wrench or wing nuts Ant

Yep exactly, you might just get a few more miles with new shells but not many. Wonder if he has considered EP140 for the sump oil? The oil pressure would be wonderful for a while at least.

wammers · Nov 19, 2014

jamesmartin said:
not for the big ends

Yep if they are going it's strip down time. Happy days.

tomcat59alan · Nov 19, 2014

True for the big ends, but I thought it was a recovery job. Hopefully mains will cure the pressure problem. If it doesn't then it's engine out and a regrind. The regrind ,new shells, rebore and pistons for the straight six was £500 a couple of years ago

wammers · Nov 19, 2014

tomcat59alan said:
True for the big ends, but I thought it was a recovery job. Hopefully mains will cure the pressure problem. If it doesn't then it's engine out and a regrind. The regrind ,new shells, rebore and pistons for the straight six was £500 a couple of years ago

Unless he sends the engine to Dr Evil who may do it for less.

jamesmartin · Nov 19, 2014

tomcat59alan said:
True for the big ends, but I thought it was a recovery job. Hopefully mains will cure the pressure problem. If it doesn't then it's engine out and a regrind. The regrind ,new shells, rebore and pistons for the straight six was £500 a couple of years ago

if ones gone generally the rest have including big ends , if caught in time a crank polish is often all thats needed, i wouldnt want to rebore a 4 or 4.6 v8 if i could help it , an uncracked 3.9 often cracked soon after rebore im my experience

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