salisbury diff nut is 32mm,t/box output flange 30mm as radius arm bolt,those guns are good i have 2 not much they wont undo and as hammer action if doing crank pulley you dont have to hold to stop it turning
 
Another question.... Kai hastaken the prop off. He has undone the nut that holds the input flange in place and got down as far as the seal itself...(which does not want to come out!)

However, I have been looking at the output shaft and it seems to have a lot of play... around 3-4mm in all directions.

Is this right? Should there be a bearing holding the shaft in line or am I missing something? I'll leave it dismantled and remove the diff for some benchwork if necessary it's just that I dont really know the answer.
 
Thanks so much for helping today Adam :) I now smell delightful, and I'll have to make sure I don't light a bbq on the driveway for a few weeks :lol::lol:

One ass of a bolt on the back of the brake caliper meant we couldn't change the bearings but we have fitted some new parts within the hub (can't remember which parts they were lol) and it has taken a lot of the play out of it. Muds are now fitted to my new wolf rims. Fuel tank leak , we are expecting to be something to do with a nut above the fuel tank which connects the spill pipe to the tank. After spending ages draining the tank (and spilling diesel over the driveway :lol: ) it was getting too late to lower it out and we were having trouble removing one pipe. I will take it to a garage tomorrow and they can fix the problems and get mot sorted so hopefully I will be able to get to wales late on wednesday or on thursday some time.
 
Glad to hear that you are making headway LRJ I would be a little owrried about the situation with the brake caliper though. If the bearings go up the shoot while you are in Wales and you can't get the caliper off I could see you being in a whole heap of troubles. Unable to drive the motor and unable to repair it despite having all the necessary tools and so on around you.

Why not ask the Garage to remove the caliper while they are messing with the fuel tank... I would guess that having it up in the aor would make it a relatively quick and painless job for them and will save you a headache.
 
well done LrJack and Beaker!

I went to my uncles house this am downed as many lemsips as I could and have been in bed since 11am achieved bugger all! Found another steering arm not too bent! But need a nice day and way more flu stuff b4 i start it!
 
Don't worry, I will ask the garage to replace the bearing, they will have to use heat probably to remove the bolt but I'm sure the garage will be able to do it.
 
Well the Bolts will have had a good soak in WD40 overnight, so may come out easier, its not too rounded off, can still get some bite with a socket on it. Took a lot of play out by adjusting the free float a bit (as per rave manual), alot less play than there was.

Ended up with a little list for the garage to look at, the track rod ends looked shot as did a couple of other bushes on the front. Main brake lines didn't look too bad but the NSF was leaking brake fluid.

I don't smell as bad as yourself, I let you do the worst bit.... :D:D:D

I think i'd better take mine for a drive on the morrow to test the water a bit
 
they will have to use heat probably to remove the bolt but I'm sure the garage will be able to do it.
Click to expand...

I'm looking at getting some of this spray stuff in this months LRO mag, its a lubricant but freezes the rusted nuts and bolts down to about -40 degrees to allow them to contract therefore creating space to allow lubricant to penetrate... I know it sometimes works but heat makes things expand therefore making a nut tighter... All physics but hey!!

The report says this spray is quite costly but worth its weight as its never failed them.. Might be worth keeping in a tool box!!

Can't remember the name and to lazy to look!!... :D
 
BenjyP said:
I'm looking at getting some of this spray stuff in this months LRO mag, its a lubricant but freezes the rusted nuts and bolts down to about -40 degrees to allow them to contract therefore creating space to allow lubricant to penetrate... I know it sometimes works but heat makes things expand therefore making a nut tighter... All physics but hey!!

The report says this spray is quite costly but worth its weight as its never failed them.. Might be worth keeping in a tool box!!

Can't remember the name and to lazy to look!!... :D
Click to expand...

I'd go back to school if I were you and pay more attention in the physics lessons.
You're saying that a nut becoming bigger through heat makes it smaller on a bolt?:der::confused2::doh:
 
I think there be a typo in there.

The stuffs call Wurth's - Rost Off Ice. German company who make it, so could be good really....
 
GRATCH said:
I'd go back to school if I were you and pay more attention in the physics lessons.
You're saying that a nut becoming bigger through heat makes it smaller on a bolt?:der::confused2::doh:
Click to expand...

If you heat the bolt, and it expands, I think what he is trying to say is it will then be harder to get the nut off it. So you should use heat on the nut but freeze the bolt and you (in theory) will have no problem taking them apart.
 
I know what he meant:D
Basically heating or freezing is a way to 'crack' the rusted together parts so you can undo them.
Wurths are a good make, but most companies do freeze sprays now. Find your local trade motorfactors (where the garages get their parts from, not a car spares shop) they should have some in stock.
 
I got to remove a broken bolt from an old transfer box. The head shered of and they were 8.8's! My plan is to heat the ali around its base on the theory that ali expands more than steel so should make the stud easier to extract.
 
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