thks ,do u know what the battery Vdc is with the engine off and then again with engine running
also sounds really daft , checked with a torch to ensure the actual ventilation vents are fully open as I know they can break inside , not telling u how to say I’m eggs, lol
just having a search through the codes for u in better detail to see what I can find
plus when u done the self test did u get any led flashing , as I would assume u did seeing there’s fault codes
Also found this which shows where the motors are
looks like the lower ones u can get to fairly easily
ur ref
Code B1b74 B1b75
Defrost ventilation mode servomotor, front floor
Code B1b76
Servomotor of the mixing valve left
Code B1b77
Servomotor of the mixing valve right
looks like the lower ones u can get to fairly easily
ur ref
Code B1b74 B1b75
Defrost ventilation mode servomotor, front floor
Code B1b76
Servomotor of the mixing valve left
Code B1b77
Servomotor of the mixing valve right
Hi
if the motors work u need to start tracing back towards the heater control module , to ensure there no broken wires or bad connector
pull the plugs out from the back of the centre heater console , then use a multimeter set onto ohms to check for continuity and also u have power coming out of the heater module to the motors
If no joy then need to test again with a multimeter from the ecu to the heated console connectors
the previous links have the full wiring diagrams , will be easier to print out the pages u need
Also with the motor removed can u turn the flap to get heat through the vents , can u leave the motor out for now so u can at least then get heat until u find the fault , just an idea, as I assume the flaps move freely and not jammed up which would of course stop working if the motor was weak
hope that helps
if the motors work u need to start tracing back towards the heater control module , to ensure there no broken wires or bad connector
pull the plugs out from the back of the centre heater console , then use a multimeter set onto ohms to check for continuity and also u have power coming out of the heater module to the motors
If no joy then need to test again with a multimeter from the ecu to the heated console connectors
the previous links have the full wiring diagrams , will be easier to print out the pages u need
Also with the motor removed can u turn the flap to get heat through the vents , can u leave the motor out for now so u can at least then get heat until u find the fault , just an idea, as I assume the flaps move freely and not jammed up which would of course stop working if the motor was weak
hope that helps
Last edited:
that’s great news so fingers crossed don’t have to go any further into the dashboard as we said before seems strange 3 x have failed
Plse let me know if u need the wiring connectors etc for the heater control panel , should be in the wiring diagram but if u get stuck plse give me a shout and see what I can find for u
as the shutters are free maybe can leave a motor out so u can get some heat which would at least take some of the pressure off
Plse keep us updated and wonder if the heater control panel is faulty ??? , but won’t know until tested
That's what you call the control panel, it's what's on the dashboard with the temperature settings.
Sorry but sometimes Google's translations are weird.
yes indeed , have known them to fail , plenty on ebay but then ur just guessing as what’s wrong
it might even be a bad wire / connector on the back on the control panel, can see from ur pic u already have it loose , so using a multimeter set to ohms , can go from connector plug to motor connector to ensure continuity , if all checks out can then test Vdc from the control panel then at the motor
OK, thanks.
But I do not think it's the control panel the problem, because I had the engine in my hands, and when I moved the temperature, the engine was moving according to the temperature I was asking.
I do not know if I express myself correctly.
Ah i see, i wasnt aware of that , so the motors move when u turn the temp dial on the control panel
if that’s the case and 100% the flaps are opening and clear the heat exchanger itself may be faulty , which alas is a big job
so really need to prove 100% the motors are moving fully in order to open the ducts
what happens if u turn off every single vent apart from the small one next to the steering wheel , do u get heat from that plse
also assume u take the control off auto
Plse Let us know how u get on , plus did the heat all of a sudden fail or gradually get worse
Did u also vent the pipes that go into the heat exchanger in the engine bay , ur see the pipes go through the bulkhead , with the heating at full blast do both the pipes get hot
This is a vehicle that I had recently so I do not know the history of the problem.
If not the current problem, it's all right working flawless and left I have a little bit of heat but really a little bit, like +5 degree from the outside.
Tomorrow I would look at the pipes in the engine compartment. I would see if they are all 2 hot.
And a little question ', what is the white pipe that we see on my first photo, it looks like an air hose but it is not connected to anything ...
If not the current problem, it's all right working flawless and left I have a little bit of heat but really a little bit, like +5 degree from the outside.
Tomorrow I would look at the pipes in the engine compartment. I would see if they are all 2 hot.
And a little question ', what is the white pipe that we see on my first photo, it looks like an air hose but it is not connected to anything ...
ok so as u say we don’t know the history ref this fault , so will in these instances work through it step by step because u haven’t got a base line to start from
so then if I may recap please
the pollen cabin filter is nice and clean
Passenger side gets full heat and drivers side doesnt
that white the tube goes up to the dashboard where a sensor sits, that detects the inside temperature of the cabin
ur see on ur dashboard some small slots ,that where that tubes goes to
is there also a difference with the amount of air that comes out of the vents between the drivers side and passengers , or is it just the temperature difference , wish to establish that the force of air is the same both sides
many thks
ok thks, so we then know that flaps arnt stopping air flow , seeing there equal
Have u tried taking the pollen filter out then retrying it please
the more we work through this I’m worried it could be a blocked heat exchanger , as they can block one side, might be able to flush it out but where not there yet
Will see if the heater matrix pipes are equal then plse, expansion vessel topped up correctly and u should also have a vent on the pipes as it goes through the bulkhead to vent any air out
However , fingers crossed it isn’t and can keep going through it step by step
happy to help as much as I can to get this resolved
no probs, we also need to establish that the motor is working that closes off the cold site to allow full heat to come through the vent, think that’s called the blend motor
Indeed Plse let us know what u find , also wonder if u can see the blend motor move when u go from cold to hot
Hello, I put everything back together, I had to run the engine to do the heat test, and when I come back 10 minutes after I have an E on the dashboard, the hazard lights are working and I can not to start the vehicle. I tried to clear the default with icarsoft but they all come back ....
I created another topic not to polish that one https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/degraded-mode-range-rover-sport-2-7-tdv6.352104/
I created another topic not to polish that one https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/degraded-mode-range-rover-sport-2-7-tdv6.352104/
Last edited:
