With mine, every time you turn the ignition on it tries to reset the flaps. If I leave it on the setting it won’t change to, after a few startups it changes.
This is because my blend motors are sticking. They are brothel to get to ;)
 
Salut! Nico,

where is France are you, we do have some English posters that live in France, you never know they may be close.

as a recommendation I would suggest you consider something like the GAP IID Tool. Expensive, but it can pay for itself in no time sorting problems out, especially if reasonably priced parts are not easy to come by in France.
 
Nico2121 said:
Yes, it's left, driver side.

I have already closed all the right side to leave only the left sides open but it has not changed anything.
Click to expand...

Cheers

the motors are therefore sticking , would be a very good idea as @ukadamwest also suggest to get it plugged into diagnostics , plus 1 ref the gap iid

also try changing just on the drivers side to alter the seatings from windscreen, face and flor vents , that will then at least help narrow which motor is sticking

do u ever gets problems when its set just on cold air

also a video showing where they are


 
Last edited:
ukadamwest said:
Salut! Nico,

where is France are you, we do have some English posters that live in France, you never know they may be close.

as a recommendation I would suggest you consider something like the GAP IID Tool. Expensive, but it can pay for itself in no time sorting problems out, especially if reasonably priced parts are not easy to come by in France.
Click to expand...


i live pas de calais.

I know someone who has a Nanocom, it's the same, no?

I will see it tomorrow, for cons or I find a program for the range rover sport because he has the program for a disco tdv6 but not for a sport range.

gstuart said:
Cheers

the motors are therefore sticking , would be a very good idea as @ukadamwest also suggest to get it plugged into diagnostics , plus 1 ref the gap iid

also try changing just on the drivers side to alter the seatings from windscreen, face and flor vents , that will then at least help narrow which motor is sticking

do u ever gets problems when its set just on cold air

also a video showing where they are


Click to expand...


I have no heat on the whole left side up, middle and low, and yesterday I moved all the shutters for about ten minutes but it did not work.

For the video I had seen, and I think there is at least 3 hours of work to disassemble everything, right? :eek:


There are no dismantling instructions?

Mark Piercy said:
Merde, une peux travaux pour gagner un peu chaleur ??

:p
Click to expand...
gstuart said:
lol, only a little amount of work for heat ,
Click to expand...


The most annoying thing is this winter, I could not de-ice a side of the windshield, and the worst is that it's the driver side. :p
 
Vous n'avez pas une pare brise chauffé ?
Mais le nanocom est juste pour le P38 malheureusement...:(
Gap id, comme il vous dit pour votre model. Cette une très bon outil et avec vous gagnez le temps et l'argent.:cool:
Désolé pour la grammaire:p
 
My windshield is heated by the air and as I have no hot air left, it will defrost badly.

And if it's not a nanocom, it's another name, it's a software that allows you to see the defects but you can not erase them.

And I too apologize for my grammar and spelling that must not be terrible
 
Did u have a look at the link I posted earlier , has a full description of the system

https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=!AMrvOm7c4l3jJkg&cid=4BC2D89C85C7C171&id=4BC2D89C85C7C171!26586&parId=4BC2D89C85C7C171!26574&o=OneUp

it won’t hurt if u try the nanocom in ur RRS as it’s virtually the same systems used in the D3 , u might be lucky and it provides u with some fault codes

hope that helps and plse have a look at the manual, includes fault codes etc

CAEF7271-D918-4B31-A659-39326111BC50.jpeg
F7B796DE-CBDC-406C-B495-70A35697139E.jpeg
ECE98BFA-B567-44DB-AB89-EDBCEB77FC0F.jpeg
EA5F1E86-25AB-445C-A623-7495FEEA528B.jpeg
00EE4A22-466D-4C17-8DF1-1C0BF4AD9DD0.jpeg
7B2AF068-143C-438F-95B6-6904BF7328EF.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Nico2121 said:
My windshield is heated by the air and as I have no hot air left, it will defrost badly.

And if it's not a nanocom, it's another name, it's a software that allows you to see the defects but you can not erase them.

And I too apologize for my grammar and spelling that must not be terrible
Click to expand...

hi

Just doing some more digging for u and going through all the information I have to see if I have anything else that may help

Do u work on the RRS yourself or rely on garages plse, cheers

gary
 
gstuart said:
hi

Just doing some more digging for u and going through all the information I have to see if I have anything else that may help

Do u work on the RRS yourself or rely on garages plse, cheers

gary
Click to expand...


Hello

I just had it but I work mainly by myself. No garage.
 
Nico2121 said:
Yes I had looked but I did not really understand how it worked. Your schemas are really good, thank you.

For the devices, it has the Nanocom evolution and another basremap.
Click to expand...

no problems , have edited the pictures so they are clearer

Putting it simply , the motor opens and closes a flap so either hot or cold comes through the ducts ,, in ur case the motor that controls the drivers side heat isn’t opening the flap,

could be a failed motor or an electrical issue going to the motor , but a diagnostic reader should give u a fault code
 
Nico2121 said:
Hello

I just had it but I work mainly by myself. No garage.
Click to expand...

hi

so that’s handy then ur able to do this work urself, just need a code reader and if u intend to keep it having a code reader is really a must

will save u a fortune and pay for them selves very quickly , the gap iid is very good , cheaper readers are available but can’t do as much

as a side note have all the timing belts and oil pump cover been replaced
 
Also looking at the picture , ref number 7

that’s the flap thats causing the issues , it isn’t closing , so not shutting off the cold air coming into the ducting

assume u have cold air coming out of ur drivers side vents

there can be other issues, that why u need the codes to be read
 
In code reader, is "Icarsoft Tf930" good?

"IIDControl Gap" function by cable or bluetooth?

My range is a Belgian tracked at land rover since the beginning, and at the level of the timing belt, it is simply written "timing belt" in the maintenance book without more details.



I also think that it is the valve 7 that does not get infected and that lets only cold air see a little hot air.
 
Last edited:
We ordered this, I will send it back to you after receiving it. TF930 icarsoft

https://www.paddockspares.com/icarsoft-diagnostics-scanner-for-land-rover.html

I still have 2 questions about bluetooth, I can call but about my directory it says "empty directory" while on my android "directory transfer" is ok.
And also at the level of my external retroviers, when I go back, they go down but much too hard, so I tried to adjust them when they are in this position but they always come back too low.

I hope I explained.
 
With what a garage will charge you, then tell you what they think it means - rather than the code you need, you will get your money back through saved garage expenses and mis-diagnosis.
Being able to keep to talk to your vehicle will save you a fortune in long run.
 
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