aah, so RCL = CDL, and RLK = Keyswitch ??

Correct. They refer to the Nanocom output rather than the physical CDL and Key switches themselves. Like I say, some sort of logic is being performed somewhere.

Why the door ajar switch is required to work, I don't know. Years ago I seem to remember Marty saying all 3 need to work. Maybe it goes to GND when the door is shut and it only works when the door is shut? Might have a play if I get a chance later.
 
I find the easiest way is to close the latch using a srewdriver with the door still open. Then you can access the latch & wiring, but the BECM thinks the door is closed so will still lock & unlock without the mislock warnings.
 
Correct. They refer to the Nanocom output rather than the physical CDL and Key switches themselves. Like I say, some sort of logic is being performed somewhere.

Why the door ajar switch is required to work, I don't know. Years ago I seem to remember Marty saying all 3 need to work. Maybe it goes to GND when the door is shut and it only works when the door is shut? Might have a play if I get a chance later.
I have a rear door that locks and so on but doesn't turn the interior light on when opened and doesn't isolate the suspension either🤷
 
Correct. They refer to the Nanocom output rather than the physical CDL and Key switches themselves. Like I say, some sort of logic is being performed somewhere.

Why the door ajar switch is required to work, I don't know. Years ago I seem to remember Marty saying all 3 need to work. Maybe it goes to GND when the door is shut and it only works when the door is shut? Might have a play if I get a chance later.
Also remember if Nanocom says 12V then that particular switch is open. The usual fault is the switch failing close to 0V due to wear on the small pip on the switch. As long as all 3 toggle to zero then they are working, although wear in the mechanism can also mean they don't operate at the correct time.
 
Also remember if Nanocom says 12V then that particular switch is open. The usual fault is the switch failing close to 0V due to wear on the small pip on the switch. As long as all 3 toggle to zero then they are working, although wear in the mechanism can also mean they don't operate at the correct time.

Mine's stuck at 12V so that makes sense. Rain stopped play, today. Had enough of getting cold and wet so came back inside.
 
Screenshot 2025-02-13 at 21.59.04.png


This is in the electrical manual from 1996 (5th Edition) onwards... It appears you need your CDL switch to be working or the BECM will never try and resync a key.
 
Passive coil is also mentioned in that same 1996 5th Edition. It's only the 1995 4th edition that doesn't have any mention of the passive coil, or instructions on syncing handsets.

Interestingly, theres no mention of passive immobilisation in the 1995 manual, so maybe that wasn't even a thing on the earliest cars?
 
Passive coil is also mentioned in that same 1996 5th Edition. It's only the 1995 4th edition that doesn't have any mention of the passive coil, or instructions on syncing handsets.

Interestingly, theres no mention of passive immobilisation in the 1995 manual, so maybe that wasn't even a thing on the earliest cars?
It was present on my 94 if I understand what you mean correctly.
 
View attachment 335049

This is in the electrical manual from 1996 (5th Edition) onwards... It appears you need your CDL switch to be working or the BECM will never try and resync a key.

My CDL is fine but the right key switch isn't. So it doesn't know the key is turning.

Oddly, the original key #2 started working again after fiddling the BECM settings and then clearing RF memory. Key #4, a replacement, is having none of it.

No coil on ignition barrel on my '95 but it does have passive immobilisation. You have to use the blipper again if it immobilises itself although I switched it off years ago.
 
My CDL is fine but the right key switch isn't. So it doesn't know the key is turning.

Oddly, the original key #2 started working again after fiddling the BECM settings and then clearing RF memory. Key #4, a replacement, is having none of it.

No coil on ignition barrel on my '95 but it does have passive immobilisation. You have to use the blipper again if it immobilises itself although I switched it off years ago.
I'm really not sure what you mean by "passive immobilisation" The EDC or ECU is where immobilisation occurs and is automatic when the ignition is turned off. The BECM sends a code to mobilise the EDC/ECU. The only exception to this is, in the case of the EDC, is that it is possible to purchase a new EDC which will not have immobilisation enabled unless diagnostics are used to enable it, this is a one time operation, once immobilisation is set, it cannot be unset. You cannot switch off immobilisation in the EDC/ECU, what you did was set the immobiliser to off in the BECM. Immobiliser in that case is a misnomer as it's a mobilisation function, turning it off in effect makes mobilisation automatic.
 
I'm really not sure what you mean by "passive immobilisation" The EDC or ECU is where immobilisation occurs and is automatic when the ignition is turned off. The BECM sends a code to mobilise the EDC/ECU. The only exception to this is, in the case of the EDC, is that it is possible to purchase a new EDC which will not have immobilisation enabled unless diagnostics are used to enable it, this is a one time operation, once immobilisation is set, it cannot be unset. You cannot switch off immobilisation in the EDC/ECU, what you did was set the immobiliser to off in the BECM. Immobiliser in that case is a misnomer as it's a mobilisation function, turning it off in effect makes mobilisation automatic.

If you lock the car you immobilise it. If you unlock it but don't put the key in the ignition within how ever many seconds it immobilises itself unlock you press the fob - that's the passive immobilisation that is disbaled by the setting in the BECM and what I have switched off.

EDIT: passive means in certain circumstances it does it itself rather than you explicitly telling it to by pressing the lock button.
 
If you lock the car you immobilise it. If you unlock it but don't put the key in the ignition within how ever many seconds it immobilises itself unlock you press the fob - that's the passive immobilisation that is disbaled by the setting in the BECM and what I have switched off.

EDIT: passive means in certain circumstances it does it itself rather than you explicitly telling it to by pressing the lock button.
Sorry, locking the car has nothing to do with immobilisation only the alarm. I never lock mine at home but I can assure you that the immobiliser, a function of the EDC is set.
 
Sorry, locking the car has nothing to do with immobilisation only the alarm. I never lock mine at home but I can assure you that the immobiliser, a function of the EDC is set.

I think you need to read section S3 in the electrical troubleshooting section of RAVE to fresh your memory. Locking with the key or fob activates the alarm, the perimeteic monitoring and immobilises the car.
 
I think you need to read section S3 in the electrical troubleshooting section of RAVE to fresh your memory. Locking with the key or fob activates the alarm, the perimeteic monitoring and immobilises the car.
No I do not need to refresh my memory. Locking or super locking does the first two but it does not immobilise the car, simply turning off the ignition does that as it's a function of the EDC/
 

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