Bought mine off ebay last year, just had it's MOT and the emissions figure was down by 25% so either the bypass has helped or the new BMW crankcase filter mod, bypass cost me £30 including delivery. As Mad Hat Man suggests loads of info on this subject if you try a search for EGR bypass.
MULDERKE
Well-Known Member
Hello all.
Well my EGR blanking kit came today so plan to fit it at the weekend as per MINGS pic's.
My question is, do i need new seals for the inlet manifold or can they be reused when putting it all back together?
Are there any gaskets i need to obtain before i start the job?
And last, the EGR bypass has a cork gasket attached to it where it mates upto the manifold. Do i need any type of sealer on this or just fit it as it is?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Cheers
Well my EGR blanking kit came today so plan to fit it at the weekend as per MINGS pic's.
My question is, do i need new seals for the inlet manifold or can they be reused when putting it all back together?
Are there any gaskets i need to obtain before i start the job?
And last, the EGR bypass has a cork gasket attached to it where it mates upto the manifold. Do i need any type of sealer on this or just fit it as it is?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Cheers
ming
SPACE TWOT
Hello all.
My question is, do i need new seals for the inlet manifold or can they be reused when putting it all back together?
Are there any gaskets i need to obtain before i start the job?
And last, the EGR bypass has a cork gasket attached to it where it mates upto the manifold. Do i need any type of sealer on this or just fit it as it is?
quote]. . . . .No Earthling ,use the existing seals just inspect them for damage, clean up seals and mating sufaces and use copper anti seize [the heat prove type] this is only to help if you take it apart again but is good practice , and remember that on the manifold your going from plastic to ali so equal tension hand tight all round and a nip to finish ,if your not confident then use the torque settings
AaronSim
Member
I have recently done this mod and it was all working fine. However when I turn the engine off now there is a weird humming noise.
I think it is the EGR vacuum hose drawing in air past the screw I have put in there. I can live with the noise, I just want to know that the air getting in isn't doing any damage to anything else, as I don't know what that hose goes to or it's purpose.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Aaron
I think it is the EGR vacuum hose drawing in air past the screw I have put in there. I can live with the noise, I just want to know that the air getting in isn't doing any damage to anything else, as I don't know what that hose goes to or it's purpose.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Aaron
Singvogel
Well-Known Member
Aha - you have discovered that endangered species - the Landrover 'dying-duck'. It's call has been likened to many things.
Check here:
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/egr-valve-sounds-like-duck-81578.html
An easy fix - once you find out.
Any problems after your read through it - get back to me.
Singvogel.
MULDERKE
Well-Known Member
Thanks.
To all that have contributed to this thread and to Ming!
What difference in driving!
The inlet system was cacked up in Sh*t ,that can not be good for any engine. The stuff in the inlet manifold was really thick GUNGE and took some removing.
With basic tools, this is a worth while MOD
To all that have contributed to this thread and to Ming!
What difference in driving!
The inlet system was cacked up in Sh*t ,that can not be good for any engine. The stuff in the inlet manifold was really thick GUNGE and took some removing.
With basic tools, this is a worth while MOD
Freelander vanman
New Member
Very 1st "mod" on my 05 td4 auto van.
Ordered from Alisport, arrived 2 days later.
Got my brand new Halfords tool kit out and 15mins later it was done.
(not road tested yet - so it could still all go t@ts up)
Lots of black sludge/soot on the inlet where the EGR was bolted. Wiped out a load with some cloths. Wasn't sure how best to get this cleaned up properly.
Started first crank over.
Will be interesting to compare old mpg (26 ish) to next weeks...
Good instructions on here. Thanks.
Mark
Pic of old EGR all crusted up :
Ordered from Alisport, arrived 2 days later.
Got my brand new Halfords tool kit out and 15mins later it was done.
(not road tested yet - so it could still all go t@ts up)
Lots of black sludge/soot on the inlet where the EGR was bolted. Wiped out a load with some cloths. Wasn't sure how best to get this cleaned up properly.
Started first crank over.
Will be interesting to compare old mpg (26 ish) to next weeks...
Good instructions on here. Thanks.
Mark
Pic of old EGR all crusted up :
Freelander vanman
New Member
Quick update.
Drove into town and back ths afternoon.
Appeared to be marginally more responsive. It's never going to be a veyron, but it does feel quicker/better.
Have brimmed the tank and reset the "meter" so will be interested to see what mpg I get.
Drove into town and back ths afternoon.
Appeared to be marginally more responsive. It's never going to be a veyron, but it does feel quicker/better.
Have brimmed the tank and reset the "meter" so will be interested to see what mpg I get.
Freelander vanman
New Member
I have got a new synergy box, sat on my desk, arrived last week.
Was contemplating fitting it this wkend. I bought the kit with a new Maf and a switch for the dash.
Any idea how long it will take (a bit of a numpty like me) to fit ?
Mark
Was contemplating fitting it this wkend. I bought the kit with a new Maf and a switch for the dash.
Any idea how long it will take (a bit of a numpty like me) to fit ?
Mark
Singvogel
Well-Known Member
Hi Mark,
Taking it easy, checking everything twice, even if this is the first time you've opened the air filter cover, it should take no more than a couple of hours - absolutely tops.
Did Ron send you the long 5mm Allen key for the air filter cover?
Have you got the security torx bits?
I think those are the only tools you'll need.
The tricky bit is actually finding a way through the bulkhead for the switch cable. Very easy if you have an Auto. If yours is a manual g/box, I'll let someone else explain the best way to do it.
Best place to put the box is up behind the fusebox at the top back right of the engine bay (looking from the front) Mine is wrapped in bubble-wrap and then in a zip-lock bag with just enough left open for the cable, to keep it safe from any spray or splash from the wheel arch space.
That's my best advice - but wait a bit and hear what others have to say.
Cheers,
Singvogel.
Freelander vanman
New Member
Many thanks. Your always so helpful.
Mines an auto. I'll prob end up getting one of our works electricians to chek my cabling one afternoon. I did buy the security torx set in advance. Not sure on the Allen key.
Must unwrap the synergy parcel and see what I'm up against
Mark
Mines an auto. I'll prob end up getting one of our works electricians to chek my cabling one afternoon. I did buy the security torx set in advance. Not sure on the Allen key.
Must unwrap the synergy parcel and see what I'm up against
Mark
Singvogel
Well-Known Member
Many thanks. Your always so helpful.
Mines an auto. I'll prob end up getting one of our works electricians to chek my cabling one afternoon. I did buy the security torx set in advance. Not sure on the Allen key.
Must unwrap the synergy parcel and see what I'm up against
Mark
As it's an auto the cable for the dash-swith is routed through a rubber bung on the bulkhead. Down a bit and right of the brake servo. Roughly in line with the oil filler cap looking from the front. The rubber plug is there for the clutch pedal - but you (and I) don't have one.
If you don't have a long 5mm Allen key getting at the 2 screws at the back of the air-filter is a bit of a pain. The front 3 Allen screws are obvious and simple.
Singvogel.
davidstoncold
Member
after reading all these threads about the egr . i bought one off ebay a while back just got round to fitting it today . i took the inlet manifold off as well £10 worth of petrol as loads of rags pushed through manifold pipes etc. them i jetwashed all the pipes through and a final swill out with more petrol it was well gunged up . made the world of difference to the cars smoothness it now feels like it did when i bought it over 4 years ago.
just one question the pipe that comes up from the exhaust and fixes to the egr bypass is letting a bit off air up it what the best way to seal this up or will it seal itself . any tip welcome.
just one question the pipe that comes up from the exhaust and fixes to the egr bypass is letting a bit off air up it what the best way to seal this up or will it seal itself . any tip welcome.
Singvogel
Well-Known Member
Hi David,
If you just seal up or plug the pipe you are likely to get the 'duck noise' - check for threads on here about it - very annoying, it is.
It's the sound of the vacuum leaking past the EGR solenoid valve after the ignition is switched off.
Disconnecting or plugging the vacuum pipe going to the EGR is not enough. You need to stop the vacuum in the pipe at the source.
If you go to the brake servo you should see a shiny black vacuum pipe about 8mm diameter. Follow that pipe across the bulkhead - the pipe turns forwards away from the bulkhead and connects to a black valve about 30mm diameter. This is at a position roughly halfway between the engine and the ECU box. That valve has a braid-covered small vacuum pipe coming off from it at 90degrees, heading initially towards the passenger side wheel arch before it loops round and down towards the EGR solenoid which is hidden away in an awkward position down below.
Now for the clever bit - you need a small metal 'peg' - I used the little metal peg that comes with IKEA furniture to hold up a shelf in a cupboard. I'm sure you know the type of thing that pushes into a 4mm hole in the upright wood. Cut the braid pipe about 25mm from the valve and then join them again using the peg.
Result - the EGR solenoid is not activated with your brake servo and turbo vanes unaffected. This mod is of course reversible as all you need to do is remove the peg.
Cheers,
Singvogel.
Last edited:
Hi Ming cleaned out manifold today and fitted egr unit my manifold was full of sludge rather than carbon what a mess took me longer to clean the work area and my self then it did to do the manifold and modREET SO GO BUY ONE FIRST. . . .Strip off these bits[1]ok take off old egr[four bolts] undo the turbo electrical plug lhs [push metal plunger in and push down to realease] undo rhs electrical grommet with cables ,undo all manifold bolts and pull off ,should end up here [2]
using Slobs idea use oven cleaner to clean plastic manifold ,wash out with water, i did it three times [3]sorry bout young Porky. . . . .take off all the seals and check um/and clean ,smeer with anti sieze and when dry put mani fold back ,if your not confident on motors use the correct tourque remember this is plastic to ally[4]fit new egr blanking plate, I found it tight and had to put screw driver in the holes to line it [smeer wiff anti seize on mate faces][5]put every thing back and double check. . . .put a screw or ball bearing in egr vacuum hose and cable tie it in a safe place [so it wont flap in the fan houseing] last check start motor [mine went first time] then test run . . . . .job done ,refere to heinz manwell un rave fer details. . . . .i wood like to thank Porky fer his tecknickle help un no how . . . . .well he did the whole job really i wez int pub
Hi Guys, well today i did the egr blank off thingy and i think i have a problem. The new bypass doesnt line up exactly with the exhaust its like 3 mm too short. I managed to get the jubille clip around them sort of and tighten in but teh seal isnt perfect , and when i started her up she sounded like a tractor when i pressed the gas??? any ideas???
