Stretch_TD4
New Member
Just a quick question,
So the EGR valve on my 2001 TD4 is vacuum operated, I checked the valve and it does open and close with the use of a mitivac, so can I not just blank the vacuum hose with a ball bearing or small length of rod to have the same effect as physically blocking the exhaust port?!
So the EGR valve on my 2001 TD4 is vacuum operated, I checked the valve and it does open and close with the use of a mitivac, so can I not just blank the vacuum hose with a ball bearing or small length of rod to have the same effect as physically blocking the exhaust port?!
Singvogel
Well-Known Member
Hi Stretch,
Of course you can do that - that's the easiest / cheapest way of de-activating the EGR.
There is still all the internal gubbins which reduces the diameter, so the next step is a by-pass which gives the full available cross-section so the air-flow is improved.
That's the theory anyway. A by-pass may or may not give an extra improvement in efficiency, but every little helps in the 'Quest for Excellence'.
Singvogel.
Of course you can do that - that's the easiest / cheapest way of de-activating the EGR.
There is still all the internal gubbins which reduces the diameter, so the next step is a by-pass which gives the full available cross-section so the air-flow is improved.
That's the theory anyway. A by-pass may or may not give an extra improvement in efficiency, but every little helps in the 'Quest for Excellence'.
Singvogel.
Hi. This is my first deisel ever, so with all the advise here I bought a bypass valve on eBay £30. when I tried to fit it it was 4/5 cm. too long, so I had to cut and weld to make it fit. Today I failed my MOT( too much smoke) so I think there may be a leak between the bypass and the manifold, I did not replace the gaskrt. What do you think. Malcolm.
Singvogel
Well-Known Member
Yes - you must do something with the little braid vacuum pipe.
Have a search for 'duck noise' - no kidding!
You will get a very irritating noise when you shut the engine off if you don't de-activate it the correct way. If you do nothing then dirty air will be sucked in so you have to do something.
S.
willo
Well-Known Member
As far as I know I was the first to mention that starving duck noise. I heard once a funny noise, it was hardly to hear, but by the time I was out of the car it was stopped. Therefore I took the habit when arriving at home, in the garage, to open the bonnet before I shut down the engine and after a couple of times I could celarly hear the noise. I made a clip on youtube and posted it and where before none had heard it, not even the mechanics working in LR garage, after that clip they started to pay attention and gradually others started to say they had also the noise. I think I gave that first post the title of "spindown noise" or so. (Several years back). What I want to say is that if you are not carefully listening to it or if you shut down your car outside in the street it is possible you won't hear the noise. My neighbour said he never heard the noise either but the first time he stopped on my driveway and he shut down his engine I could clearly hear the duck, so ......
I didn't have the bits as described in other posts so I just disconnected the solenoid vacuum pipe where it joins the main vacuum line, scewed a very small wood screw into the union and then put the the solenoid vacuum pipe back on the union over the screw. ...no duck noise, completely reversible and looks no different to original!
Singvogel
Well-Known Member
As long as the EGR has been cleaned prior to de-activating that should give you a great benefit.
Those of us who have gone further and fitted a by-pass may get a little bit more efficiency, but the main task is stopping the exhaust gases being re-cycled.
S.
Hi looking to do this Mod on my 2002 td4 new to this i have read the posts and am still a little confused could some-one help me in a simple step by step sorry if this is covering old ground but im just not getting complete picture with so many views on things,
1. Which is the best one to buy??? (reading about blank for vacuum line and some are open) not looking for bean can /2p solution just proper kit needs to be straight forward.
2. Gaskets do these need replaced?
3. What is best to clean it with?
4. Do i clean the engine part as well or is there risk of dirt falling in? ( sorry if this isnt sounding right).
5. What is this bloody duck lol how do i stop this problem occuring when mod is done?.
6. What is the synergie thing people are saying they change with this?
1. Which is the best one to buy??? (reading about blank for vacuum line and some are open
) not looking for bean can /2p solution just proper kit needs to be straight forward.2. Gaskets do these need replaced?
3. What is best to clean it with?
4. Do i clean the engine part as well or is there risk of dirt falling in? ( sorry if this isnt sounding right).
5. What is this bloody duck lol how do i stop this problem occuring when mod is done?.
6. What is the synergie thing people are saying they change with this?
Singvogel
Well-Known Member
Hi kendo, and welcome to LandyZone.
I'm surprised you haven't found all the info you need - perhaps you search a bit more.
Anyway here are my responses to your queries.
I'd get the stainless by-pass as some the black coated jobs have had the coating peel off and rust.
They usually come with a cork gasket and you can leave the original 'blade type rubber one in place too.
If you're fitting a by-pass the only bit to clean is the 'engine bit' which is the inlet ducting. Mine wasn't too bad so (although the EGR was) and I just scraped it out with a tea-spoon and wiped it all with a petrol-soaked cloth. Some folks have taken it off and used everything from Mr Muscle to putting it in the dish-washer.
The 'duck noise' is the vacuum in the actuating pipe making strange sounds when you switch off and the vacuum fades away. Some folks get others perhaps can't hear it. There is a thread explaining where to de-activate the pipe farther back nearer the vacuum source.
A Synergy is a completely separate thing - its a tuning box especially designed for the BMW M47R to give more torque and power. Link here:
Tuning-diesels for synergy tuning modules.
I suggest you spend a while more reading up then get back if you need more info.
Oh, and check out pcv / oil separator too - it's important.
Singvogel.
I'm surprised you haven't found all the info you need - perhaps you search a bit more.
Anyway here are my responses to your queries.
I'd get the stainless by-pass as some the black coated jobs have had the coating peel off and rust.
They usually come with a cork gasket and you can leave the original 'blade type rubber one in place too.
If you're fitting a by-pass the only bit to clean is the 'engine bit' which is the inlet ducting. Mine wasn't too bad so (although the EGR was) and I just scraped it out with a tea-spoon and wiped it all with a petrol-soaked cloth. Some folks have taken it off and used everything from Mr Muscle to putting it in the dish-washer.
The 'duck noise' is the vacuum in the actuating pipe making strange sounds when you switch off and the vacuum fades away. Some folks get others perhaps can't hear it. There is a thread explaining where to de-activate the pipe farther back nearer the vacuum source.
A Synergy is a completely separate thing - its a tuning box especially designed for the BMW M47R to give more torque and power. Link here:
Tuning-diesels for synergy tuning modules.
I suggest you spend a while more reading up then get back if you need more info.
Oh, and check out pcv / oil separator too - it's important.
Singvogel.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
cos egr is a poor idea on turbo engine ,hot gas and oil vapour in inlet manifold
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
definately ,the rules on emissions arent conducive with whats best for an engine
