Datatek
Well-Known Member
Sorry, that is not true, I have removed the airline on one without problems.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Wear gloves and protective glasses and the airlines can be pulled without depressurising at access height with the car jacked as per my airbag replacement guide.Depressurise the system before you pull any airlines, even on access and jacked up you'll get a nasty surprise.
If you can depressurise then get a very sharp knife and with care, carefully cut into the bag for removal. The moment it start to hiss, let it deflate by itself.
sometimes the rear airbag tops can be seized into place with rust and road dirt. A bit of a levering will shift them and then wire brush the airbag top seats as best as you can ready for the new dunlops. I got all four from island4x4, eurospares were the company who supplied mine.
Pressurized air is scary stuff man.
No, you are wrong, for the new ones at least.
I'll take a photo of the guide that came with them. They now have a little brass collet that grabs the line as you pull back after pushing the line in. The only way to get the line back out is to unscrew the brass fitting to the bag and it specifically says not to do this. Now, you probably can do it once or twice and get away with it but seeing as they say not to I assume it isn't a good idea and would invalidate the lifetime guarantee.
As far as i am aware the warranty only applies in the USA. Depending on how you look at it, with a lifetime warranty an item is warranted not to fail until it does. Then the warranty expires.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
If the car is dropped to access, then jacked per my guide, there is next to no pressure in the bag, so no need to depressurise the entire system.Pressurized air is scary stuff man.
Well pointed out, I just did want to be extra careful. I did however depressurise the system anyhow.
And.... I had gigs on
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RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Atleast it’s not boiling water this time
Yes there are minima and maxima for each setting. Try not to go within 5 bits of minimum and maximum preferably 10 bits.
Extended. Front 120-180 Rear 105-150.
Standard. Front 95-150 Rear 85-130.
Low. Front 75-140 Rear 75-120.
Access. Front 50-110 Rear 50-100.
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cheers, i've just read standard height with engine running and system settled, ie all valves closed, doors shut, foot off brake etc and not changing height, i got the following readings;
target live
FL 105 100
FR 108 115
RL 109 109
RR 103 103
seemingly an issue at the front somewhere
target live
FL 105 100
FR 108 115
RL 109 109
RR 103 103
seemingly an issue at the front somewhere
Did you find the nugget in post #90? Of course the car should be on level ground with correct tyre pressures to set heights.
Interestingly a guy on rr.net once reported that his EAS had spontaneously populated with what appeared to be a set of default values. it was poo-poo'd at the time, of course. As an experiment I've adopted these high and standard "default" settings for the last few months, which are more or less mid-range of the parameters quoted above, works fine so far
https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/stock-eas-height-values.25368/
https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/stock-eas-height-values.25368/
Well, ideally you would use calibration blocks for standard height at least, especially if you have a current levelling issue. Then see how far your bit counts differ at each corner to work out how much adjustment the other levels will need (at the time I couldn't be bothered to do calibration blocks for the other levels, just looked at std, but that wd be the way to go if the world were suddenly taken over by a viral pandemic)
Sorry, this was the rr.net link I was meaning to include https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/eas-default-setting-values.322250/#post-2187418
Datatek
Well-Known Member
That will not work, when you change the front, weight transfer will cause the rear to change.
IMO setting blocks are a waste of time, a good measuring stick is the quickest way.
The stick is also handy when you get frustrated and chase members of your family around while foaming at the mouth...
The stick is really useful
