Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Not compared to my LR, but I'd happily convert it to full EV, if I had the money.You have just summed it up in your last line. They are not yet practical
Not compared to my LR, but I'd happily convert it to full EV, if I had the money.You have just summed it up in your last line. They are not yet practical
They will have to take my steering wheel from my cold dead hands.To be honest I am not that bothered about any of them because I can not afford the prices that are asked for them . Plus I would never consider one second hand. It's just a case of trying to get us older poorer ill old folk of the roads who can't afford them
If they become common, they will not be cheaper to run as the government will tax charging to make up from the lost revenue on petrol & diesel. Smart electricity meters will allow variable pricing.They're too expensive, agreed, but it's the way the world is going.
Why not? They're much cheaper to run long term, with none of those expensive service items like timing belts, clutches, gearbox fluid changes, and basically anything else a BEV doesn't need. Oh and most of the fuel is free, if you have solar!!
However for me, they're not as practical as my LR, so for the moment, I'll be driving that.
Was he the guy who removed the motor and battery and blew the rest up in a quarry?If they become common, they will not be cheaper to run as the government will tax charging to make up from the lost revenue on petrol & diesel. Smart electricity meters will allow variable pricing.
Recently over here a motoring magazine conducted a comparison test between a small BEV and a small ICE car over a long auto route run. according to them, the BEV cost more per kilometre due to the cost at auto route charging points.
You need a lot of solar to recharge a BEV unless you are prepared to wait for hours.
You not read about the guy with a battery failure on his Tesla that was quoted €22,000 to fix it?
Sure was. It was mighty spectacular to watch. Think its on the tubeWas he the guy who removed the motor and battery and blew the rest up in a quarry?
Don't recharge your BEV or use your tumble dryer etc or there may be power cuts
So can my generatorOn the plus side, many newer BEVs can power your house if needed in an emergency.
And mine, but with fuel now at £8.60 a gallon, I'd not run it long.So can my generator
I keep 100 litres in stock bought at about £1.08 a litreAnd mine, but with fuel now at £8.60 a gallon, I'd not run it long.
Was sensible, although it's not been £1.08 here for about 20 months, so the fuel would be stale by now anyway.I keep 100 litres in stock bought at about £1.08 a litre
Generator runs fine even on 5 year old petrol. It's not fussy as long as it still goes bang. I always keep stock not just for the generator but for mowers, strimmer and chain saw. The electricity supply used to be erratic, it's better now but we still get short interruptions.Was sensible, although it's not been £1.08 here for about 20 months, so the fuel would be stale by now anyway.
Generator runs fine even on 5 year old petrol. It's not fussy as long as it still goes bang. I always keep stock not just for the generator but for mowers, strimmer and chain saw. The electricity supply used to be erratic, it's better now but we still get short interruptions.
I have had my 3Kw Honda generator for a very long time, it kept my business running during the miners strikes and during the great storm of 1987 it ran for weeks, we were the only house in the area with power so we were heating food for babies and some elderly neighbours. It kept our freezers cold and the oil fired central heating going. I would never want to be without it, I would though prefer a diesel version as our heating runs on red diesel so we have lots of that in stock.I must admit that my small genny seems to run on kero just fine, although I don't know if it's doing any damage, but it's much cheaper than petrol, and I've several hundred litres of it in a the tank.
It is normally the alarm and other bits that run when car is not used that runs the battery downNo, just some quick in my head maths.
Here's it worked out accurately, and yes I'm slightly wrong.
If an EV battery charged to 100% looses 2% of it's remaining capacity each month for 6 months, it works out as this.
Month 1 the remaining capacity drops from 100% to 98%.
Month 2 the remaining capacity starts at 98% minus 2% leaves 96.04%.
Month 3, 96.04% - 2% = 94.11%.
Month 4, 94.11% - 2% = 92.22%.
Month 5, 92.22% - 2% = 90.37%.
Month 6, 90.37% - 2% = 88.56% remaining.
This is a loss of 11.44% over 6 months of sitting, so I was 1.44% out, but that's not even remotely close to being flat.
The alarm? Why would that be? Unless you super lock there is no current draw from the alarm.It is normally the alarm and other bits that run when car is not used that runs the battery down
the sensors use a small amount of power, there is normally a flashing LED, I had a problem with my van running the battery down over night, so was watching it, the batteries voltage changed very little with the battery disconnected but 0.2 to 0.3 V if left connected over night, I put it down to the alarm, but may be wrong I remember connecting a amp meter and if the van was locked it was drawing more current than unlocked, you where only taking about a small amount but over some months could be a problemThe alarm? Why would that be? Unless you super lock there is no current draw from the alarm.
That comes off the 12 Volts battery, which bizarrely does go flat in time, even if the main traction battery has plenty of energy in it. Unfortunately the main contractors in the traction battery are switched by the 12V Volt battery, so a dead battery means no energy from the traction battery.It is normally the alarm and other bits that run when car is not used that runs the battery down