Graculus
Well-Known Member
That's fast enough for the injectors to be triggered.
charlie@autoworxengineeri
Active Member
Ha, that's fine I really appreciate your help. I'll look tomorrow if I get that data actually as I think it does. Defibately a weird one though from what the guy said.
Graculus
Well-Known Member
Check them from the connectors on top of the engine, no need to access them directly. All things being equal, it should fire at >5deg. C. with a bit of hesitation, start straight up at >10deg. C. with the glow plugs not working / disconnected. TBH I doubt that's the issue as that wouldn't cause it to cut out dead, neither would a camshaft chain failing as it would still run (badly) on the unaffected bank. If you can access the fuel filter (on chassis rail drivers side, you can just see the top of it looking through the OSF wheelarch looking towards the gearbox) can you draw off some contents from the drain on the bottom of it? Just to check for water or other contamination and to check it is actually diesel coming up.Easy to check them how, without taking them out? From what I understand isn't one under the pump?thanks
charlie@autoworxengineeri
Active Member
Yeah good shout...as you say back to basics, although it was nice clean diesel coming out of the top valve. I agree ref glow plugs though. I genuinely think this is something simple which is why I'm reluctant to send it elsewhere.
charlie@autoworxengineeri
Active Member
Ah I do actually, I bought a couple of silverline ones but they're so bad I would happily sacrifice one
0.5 bar that's about 7 psi so not sure how accurate it'll be at that level but worth a shot. I would like to think previous people had changed fuel filters but who knows as I haven't yet.So is the only filter the one on chassis that you mentioned or is there a strainer type thing near the tank like the 300 tdi?
Graculus
Well-Known Member
There's a strainer on the bottom of the pump module, you need to drop the tank to get to it - not as bad as it sounds, generally if that's blocked the in-tank pump is very noisy and you get a low fuel pressure DTC - but only once it's running!.
I wouldn't advise bypassing the fuel filter as any contamination will go straight into the HP pump, which is bad.
I wouldn't advise bypassing the fuel filter as any contamination will go straight into the HP pump, which is bad.
charlie@autoworxengineeri
Active Member
Yeah I don't see the point in dropping the tank. The codes I posted originally was all there was in there and can only presume that was from when it was running. I still have an inkling that it's fuel related as everything else checks out. I'll try and measure presure in the morning.
charlie@autoworxengineeri
Active Member
Is there any particular brand of fuel filter to buy or avoid?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
That's too slow for reliable starting. I'd expect to see over 200 RPM while cranking, preferably closer to 250 RPM.
Have you checked the throttle body plate isn't stuck closed?
charlie@autoworxengineeri
Active Member
No I haven't, is that just before the Y piece?
charlie@autoworxengineeri
Active Member
Not had throttle body out, just pipe.off to squirt the not so magic juice
Graculus
Well-Known Member
If you've had the pipe off, you'd have seen if the throttle butterfly was closed - you can remove it, electrically connect it and try starting to eliminate. Did you ever get around to checking the manifold vacuum?Not had throttle body out, just pipe.off to squirt the not so magic juice
charlie@autoworxengineeri
Active Member
Not checked vacuum as don't have correct tooling yet. I took blue silicone pipe (possibly not original) off intake of Y piece and didn't look in it, but yes I suppose there is a giant actuator there. Are you suggesting trying to power up the actuator to open it and squirtung some magic juice in
charlie@autoworxengineeri
Active Member
I know
I keep on but I'm still struggling to understand why it would not fire or at least cough on easy start. Even if the injectors didn't fire and every other electrical thing wasn't working, surely it would still cough, unless there was a valve train or timing issue....
