The 3.0l is timed, the 2.7l is 'phased' - that is, the pump needs to be 'on stroke' when the LH camshaft it's driven from has the least load on it. It was never documented (which is probably why some people say it doesn't matter) but it was a well known cause of poor idle and acceleration within LR dealer workshops. In truth, the camshaft and pump would rarely be moved during rear belt change, some indies seemed to want to move the pump pulley, or maybe it moved during belt removal if they didn't cut it? We never had any issues with dealer-fit belts, occasionally indies or DIY though.

Any vacuum gauge will do it, just remember you need to allow air in to measure the vacuum, if there are restrictor plates, start with the largest hole and work down until you get a meaningful measurement.
 
Graculus said:
The 3.0l is timed, the 2.7l is 'phased' - that is, the pump needs to be 'on stroke' when the LH camshaft it's driven from has the least load on it. It was never documented (which is probably why some people say it doesn't matter) but it was a well known cause of poor idle and acceleration within LR dealer workshops. In truth, the camshaft and pump would rarely be moved during rear belt change, some indies seemed to want to move the pump pulley, or maybe it moved during belt removal if they didn't cut it? We never had any issues with dealer-fit belts, occasionally indies or DIY though.

Any vacuum gauge will do it, just remember you need to allow air in to measure the vacuum, if there are restrictor plates, start with the largest hole and work down until you get a meaningful measurement.
Click to expand...
OK I'll see what I can do. Ill try turning engine over first, but feel this going to get very specialist. It's definitely a strange one.Thanks
 
Graculus said:
The 3.0l is timed, the 2.7l is 'phased' - that is, the pump needs to be 'on stroke' when the LH camshaft it's driven from has the least load on it. It was never documented (which is probably why some people say it doesn't matter) but it was a well known cause of poor idle and acceleration within LR dealer workshops. In truth, the camshaft and pump would rarely be moved during rear belt change, some indies seemed to want to move the pump pulley, or maybe it moved during belt removal if they didn't cut it? We never had any issues with dealer-fit belts, occasionally indies or DIY though.

Any vacuum gauge will do it, just remember you need to allow air in to measure the vacuum, if there are restrictor plates, start with the largest hole and work down until you get a meaningful measurement.
Click to expand...
OK so yes the pump belt turns fine when engine is rotated by hand. Pump belt is on same cam as Cambelt by the looks of things, but I'm presuming if little cam chain had gone on passenger side there would be all sorts of hideous noises. So I am now determining that as I was told all belts etc are fine, so are we looking at some sort of electrical issue? Could cam or crank sensor be bad with no code?
 

these people had a problem with the crank shaft sensor after a rebuild on another video but can not find it, it was the disk on the flywheel, think if there is a problem with crank or cam shaft sensor it will not allow fuel to be injected, should be easy to find if you put it on scan tool and it will say if cam and crank are in sink
 
Ian M in France said:

these people had a problem with the crank shaft sensor after a rebuild on another video but can not find it, it was the disk on the flywheel, think if there is a problem with crank or cam shaft sensor it will not allow fuel to be injected, should be easy to find if you put it on scan tool and it will say if cam and crank are in sink
Click to expand...

Well that's just it there is no code for that. You would normally get a cam to crank correlation code p0016.. but that is the line I am now following I think.
 
There's a lot of DTC's that won't set until the engine is running, a quick way of checking is to read the engine rpm when cranking, if no or very low value, then there's a problem.
 
I refer you to my previous post......you could also have x6 dead glow plugs easy to check them they don't like to start cold that's for sure.
 
You can check the glowplugs with a multimeter from the easy to access plug in loom that supplies power to the glow plugs.
 
Graculus said:
Exactly that.
Click to expand...
I just spoke to the previous owner again for clarification and he confirms car literally cut out on him going up a hill and has only started briefly by garage on easy start. Could this suggest some sort of fuel starvation from the incline? I have fuel at the tyre valve but can I crack off and injector pipe while cranking? Is there even an accesable pipe to crack? Thanks
 
Did you ever measure the pressure? can you read the live values of LP & HP fuel when cranking? Sorry if you have, I've still got 'day job' diag going through my head - 2 x BEV's, 1 x hybrid & assorted other 'hmmmm....' jobs!
 
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