Mark Piercy · Sep 30, 2019

Recap,
New lift pump,
Swapped out FIP,
Engine timing position confirmed.
So, compression test next then.
Although the engine will be cold it will still reveal a difference if any in compression across the six cylinders.

Grrrrrr · Sep 30, 2019

Did fuel appear at the injector unions after swapping the FIP?

wammers · Sep 30, 2019

RangeRoller dt said:
Injectors are torqued to 48Nm.
Bit of coppaslip on em, check copper washers - anneal/or renew on assembly

65 Nm or 48 lbft NOT 48 Nm.

Lukas018 · Sep 30, 2019

Brill thanks. I will purchase a compression kit, see what brings up.

The FIP was bringing fuel up to injectors, no issue with that.

Off for a operation on Thursday so I will plan to do a compression test when recovered and start the strip down.

wammers · Sep 30, 2019

Think there was a lot more wrong with this motor than just a duff lift pump.

Lukas018 · Sep 30, 2019

agreed. The lift pump had to be replaced regardless as it was split and leaking diesel, it is a case of a process of elimination and not a simple solution. it is a project so just take it for what it is and learn along the way.

RangeRoller dt · Sep 30, 2019

^^^^ that is the guy to learn from.

He’s mentioned this few times...I even pointed out mine (more or less) run fines with no lift pump. There’s something your not telling us

RangeRoller dt · Sep 30, 2019

If you’ve jumped a cog your no4 injector will throw a wobbly and itl splutter, smoke and won’t run properly.
Only way I know how to check timing is certain is take the head off so you are can see it’s at TDC then rebuild it up from there? Big job to me

wammers · Sep 30, 2019

RangeRoller dt said:
If you’ve jumped a cog your no4 injector will throw a wobbly and itl splutter, smoke and won’t run properly.
Only way I know how to check timing is certain is take the head off so you are can see it’s at TDC then rebuild it up from there? Big job to me

If he has jumped a tooth the number four injector will work as normal it is just that the ECU will try to modulate the timing device beyond it's limit of movement. And injection will never be at TDC where it should be.

RangeRoller dt · Sep 30, 2019

That’s what I think he got. Unless no4 is UC

Compression is probably fine, what mileage you got Lukas018?

wammers · Sep 30, 2019

RangeRoller dt said:
That’s what I think he got. Unless no4 is UC

Compression is probably fine, what mileage you got Lukas018?

Number four injector signal has nothing to do with starting.

RangeRoller dt · Sep 30, 2019

Ah right, I see now.

More pics the better, thread watched!

Lukas018 · Sep 30, 2019

Thanks guys, the car has done 178,000 miles, no evidence in service history about engine issues apart from servicing not that would help anything, more so the injectors and chains could be original. I have attached photos (this was just removing the cam cover only not locked in TDC), engine is currently in TDC (according to locking pin and cam holder).

Is it worth taking the front cover plate off first to check timing before removing the head or what is/are the next logical steps please?

If it has jumped a cog, what is the solution?

Thanks,

Wazzajnr · Sep 30, 2019

That looks suspiciously clean for 170k miles!

Datatek · Sep 30, 2019

Lukas018 said:
Thanks guys, the car has done 178,000 miles, no evidence in service history about engine issues apart from servicing not that would help anything, more so the injectors and chains could be original. I have attached photos (this was just removing the cam cover only not locked in TDC), engine is currently in TDC (according to locking pin and cam holder).

Is it worth taking the front cover plate off first to check timing before removing the head or what is/are the next logical steps please?

If it has jumped a cog, what is the solution?

Thanks,

Have you done a compression test?

Lukas018 · Sep 30, 2019

That is my next planned job.

Datatek · Sep 30, 2019

Lukas018 said:
That is my next planned job.

Needs doing before anything else.

RangeRoller dt · Sep 30, 2019

How long have you owned this vehicle, and/or how far have you driven it with no problems??

Here is mine for comparison - just under 145,000m, earliest type P38 (old), very clean as an example but nowhere near as much as yours

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/2-5d-cam-cover.350746/

Lukas018 · Sep 30, 2019

I will do just waiting for compression tools to turn up.

RangeRoller dt - Like that post you done, looked good until the unfortunate happened! I have owned it for 2 years, done about 1,500 miles, it has run sweet, only issue I posted about before was overheating above 70+ MPH, which could be a rad, cracked head or head gasket or all (I managed to turn engine off before it totally overheated but it might have done from prev.owner). I did get a slight weep from the oil cap and around cam cover gasket but nothing major at all and it didn't seem to be under any pressure when removed. It always had a diesel leak which turned out to be rotted return pipes and lift pump failing on the connections to pump leaking fuel and letting air in.

I have probably f#@*ed up somewhere but I have done a process of elimination but still trying to find the actual issue, as all have suggested it could have skipped a cog, dodgy injectors, cracked head, worn cylinders, it goes on.

On a positive note it is not my main car but I just I knew 100% what the issue is but it looks like we are getting closer!

The RR is a 96 so similar to you engine set up on your post.

Lukas018 · Sep 30, 2019

PS need to check that filter in cam cover see if that is clogged I see that in your post

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