RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
We love pics 
More info of actual completed jobs without loose ends betterer for all of us
More info of actual completed jobs without loose ends betterer for all of us
Don't think any of us bothered as RAVE was easy to follow. Was there anything you felt uncertain about?
I found a breaker bar on the crank was nice and long and allowed me to very finely control the angle when turning the engine and looking at the dial. Dial can be a bit fiddly so do it until it is consistent 3 times on the trot. That way you don't have to take it all apart again. Gently Bentley tightening the pump bolts back up or it strips and you really sh!t yourself. I was touching cloth when i did it
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Front cover is an a***. Ask if you not sure
Lukas018
Well-Known Member
Will do hopefully a member will be fitting a refurbished FIP tomorrow with all the tools see if we can get it going. But was concerned on the amount of oil on inlet of cylinders 4 and 5 (see photo), valves look to open and close ok so I hope I dont have worn piston rings. Let me know your thoughts. Also I couldn't see a timing mark on cam sprocket unless there isn't one?
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tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
There isn't one.if the member has all the tools and you follow Rave there shouldn't be a problem. Good luck
Lukas018
Well-Known Member
Ahh I see cheers pal will update tomorrow
The oil will most likely be from the inlet manifold, the gasket/ oring may need replacing?
Lukas018
Well-Known Member
Good Evening All.
Not good news. First of all I would like to tha k ovalandrover for his help today in fitting his refurbished FIP which did not cure the non-starting and running issue. However we have ruled out a faulty FIP.
The car did come into life briefly as it did not idle, we run it enough on high revs for the nanacom only to say an invalid major fault no codes.
The timing was checked on both FIP and chains all in order.
So I am at a complete loss. The Engine does not sound good I can only suspect a damaged valve or piston damage.
As the engine is half stripped I may aswell remove the head and see what we have.
Very frustrated as back to square one.
If anyone has had this before be great to welcome your views.
I will add photos when head is off and see what we have
Not good news. First of all I would like to tha k ovalandrover for his help today in fitting his refurbished FIP which did not cure the non-starting and running issue. However we have ruled out a faulty FIP.
The car did come into life briefly as it did not idle, we run it enough on high revs for the nanacom only to say an invalid major fault no codes.
The timing was checked on both FIP and chains all in order.
So I am at a complete loss. The Engine does not sound good I can only suspect a damaged valve or piston damage.
As the engine is half stripped I may aswell remove the head and see what we have.
Very frustrated as back to square one.
If anyone has had this before be great to welcome your views.
I will add photos when head is off and see what we have
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
You can pressure test the cylinders easily/cheaply. Just take the glow plugs out.
If it’s an injector it’s probably No.4/sensor
Oil does get pushed through into the manifold by the turbo, which can build up over time. If it’s that bad your intercooler is likely clogged. I had it around cyl 1 & 2 like that. Clean out and new manifold gaskets it’s fine.
If it’s an injector it’s probably No.4/sensor
Oil does get pushed through into the manifold by the turbo, which can build up over time. If it’s that bad your intercooler is likely clogged. I had it around cyl 1 & 2 like that. Clean out and new manifold gaskets it’s fine.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Yes 27mm,
You need a window socket like this for inj.4 - (thankyou Bagshot)
Be careful how you twirl the connector wires around they get brittle with age/heat.
You need a window socket like this for inj.4 - (thankyou Bagshot)
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Lukas018
Well-Known Member
Thanks will do. Is it worth doing a leak back test to test injectors?
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
I don’t know I’m afraid. I only know to substitute them over to pinpoint one playing up. Would have to try a known no4 from a donor vehicle in your case.
Ask Wammers is your best bet for anything M51. Hes here often
They have to be set with a proper crack-tester and shims so don’t pull them apart, or if you get refurbed ones make sure they are from a reputable supplier. New ones are crazy money (no4 worst) And the sensor is a non-serviceable part no matter what’s on YouTube
Ask Wammers is your best bet for anything M51. Hes here often
They have to be set with a proper crack-tester and shims so don’t pull them apart, or if you get refurbed ones make sure they are from a reputable supplier. New ones are crazy money (no4 worst) And the sensor is a non-serviceable part no matter what’s on YouTube
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Injectors are torqued to 48lb/ft (65Nm)
Bit of coppaslip on em, check copper washers - anneal/or renew on assembly
Bit of coppaslip on em, check copper washers - anneal/or renew on assembly
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