RangeRoller dt · Dec 12, 2019

id Want to see proof rather than what some guys friends dog says. I think the baffle is needed, bad design for longevity on LRs part but integral to cooling with the way the hoses work.
Same with the stat - as Brian pointed out to me...why is it after the rad?!?

TwoAndAQuarter · Dec 15, 2019

I've hit a stumbling block reassembling the engine. The woodruff key on the FIP was very slightly misaligned (less than a degree) with the sprocket when refitting, so I used LRT-12-118 to ever so slightly rotate the FIP to correct align. This was how I interpreted RAVE when it advises:

'NOTE: Align FIP shaft to sprocket keyways using tool LRT-12-118 prior to fully engaging sprockets'.

Obviously I've gone wrong as the spring action in the FIP prevented it from aligning anywhere but where it was sat (woodruff key vertical) until stupidly I turned it to the next position (which must be the next cylinder onwards). I have read Wammer's advise that the FIP must NOT be turned backwards (anti-clockwise), however LRT-12-118 will not allow me to rotate the FIP all the way around as the oil pump housing is in the way.

Any suggestions other than removing the oil pump / FIP / cutting down the tool?

In hindsight, should I have loosened and rotated the FIP as a whole, as if I were setting the timing?

wammers · Dec 15, 2019

TwoAndAQuarter said:
I've hit a stumbling block reassembling the engine. The woodruff key on the FIP was very slightly misaligned (less than a degree) with the sprocket when refitting, so I used LRT-12-118 to ever so slightly rotate the FIP to correct align. This was how I interpreted RAVE when it advises:

'NOTE: Align FIP shaft to sprocket keyways using tool LRT-12-118 prior to fully engaging sprockets'.

Obviously I've gone wrong as the spring action in the FIP prevented it from aligning anywhere but where it was sat (woodruff key vertical) until stupidly I turned it to the next position (which must be the next cylinder onwards). I have read Wammer's advise that the FIP must NOT be turned backwards (anti-clockwise), however LRT-12-118 will not allow me to rotate the FIP all the way around as the oil pump housing is in the way.

Any suggestions other than removing the oil pump / FIP / cutting down the tool?

In hindsight, should I have loosened and rotated the FIP as a whole, as if I were setting the timing?

Yes you should. Instructions are for fitting an injection pump. With engine locked at TDC number one firing Woodfuff key slot should be almost vertical on sprocket. You turn the pump until it is in the null position between four and one. Four just injected, one about to start injection. That should place the Woodruff key uppermost on the pump shaft to match the slot in the sprocket.

Henry_b · Dec 15, 2019

Or you could just turn everything indeterminately and throw it together

Throw a prayer or 2 in there for good measure and turn the key..

TwoAndAQuarter · Dec 15, 2019

wammers said:
Yes you should. Instructions are for fitting an injection pump. With engine locked at TDC number one firing Woodfuff key slot should be almost vertical on sprocket. You turn the pump until it is in the null position between four and one. Four just injected, one about to start injection. That should place the Woodruff key uppermost on the pump shaft to match the slot in the sprocket.

Thanks Wammers, a little experimentation this evening between the rain shows that indeed my pump body needs slight clockwise rotation to be able to use LRT-12-118 to perfectly align. I managed to restore it back to Woodruff key uppermost (one about to inject) by refitting the pulley, and rotating it using that past cylinder two injected and then using LRT-12-118 to rotate the final cylinder. A small amount of adjustment tomorrow evening and I should be ready to refit the chain.

Henry_b said:
Or you could just turn everything indeterminately and throw it together

Throw a prayer or 2 in there for good measure and turn the key..

Is that how they put the V8s together?

Henry_b · Dec 15, 2019

TwoAndAQuarter said:
Thanks Wammers, a little experimentation this evening between the rain shows that indeed my pump body needs slight clockwise rotation to be able to use LRT-12-118 to perfectly align. I managed to restore it back to Woodruff key uppermost (one about to inject) by refitting the pulley, and rotating it using that past cylinder two injected and then using LRT-12-118 to rotate the final cylinder. A small amount of adjustment tomorrow evening and I should be ready to refit the chain.

Is that how they put the V8s together?

Well it is infact easier to time a V8..

Ya can do it in 5mins

no faffing around

TwoAndAQuarter · Dec 15, 2019

Henry_b said:
Well it is infact easier to time a V8..

Ya can do it in 5mins no faffing around

Ja, but ze Germans want to know everyzing is in ze perfect place....

wammers · Dec 15, 2019

TwoAndAQuarter said:
Thanks Wammers, a little experimentation this evening between the rain shows that indeed my pump body needs slight clockwise rotation to be able to use LRT-12-118 to perfectly align. I managed to restore it back to Woodruff key uppermost (one about to inject) by refitting the pulley, and rotating it using that past cylinder two injected and then using LRT-12-118 to rotate the final cylinder. A small amount of adjustment tomorrow evening and I should be ready to refit the chain.

Is that how they put the V8s together?

Have you changed the chains?

TwoAndAQuarter · Dec 15, 2019

wammers said:
Have you changed the chains?

Yes, brand new Febi Bilstein chains with gold links, new tensioner, tensioner rails and guides.

Datatek · Dec 16, 2019

Henry_b said:
Well it is infact easier to time a V8..

Ya can do it in 5mins no faffing around

Only an ancient V8 with one camshaft

wammers · Dec 16, 2019

TwoAndAQuarter said:
Yes, brand new Febi Bilstein chains with gold links, new tensioner, tensioner rails and guides.

You must slacken the pump mounts so it swivels in order to locate the pump shaft and Woodruff key. Then re time when all is back together. When all is assembled bright links on crank and pump sprocket timing marks. Bright link on pump sprocket must be opposite 6 mark. When front case, head and everything is assembled and engine still locked at TDC number one firing. Fit DTI adaptor and insert DTI. Push in until it registers 2 mm on gauge and lock adaptor. Zero DTI then with pump fasteners nipped so that pump can just be tapped around. Tap top of pump gently towards engine using a piece of wood and an hammer until DTI registers 0.95 mm. Then fully tighten pump fasteners. With new chains cam holder sits flat on head. Number one cam lobes flat across top.

Henry_b · Dec 16, 2019

Datatek said:
Only an ancient V8 with one camshaft

'Yer!!

Pushrod v8

old and simple

Grrrrrr · Dec 16, 2019

As ever, only when you know the answer.

Many thanks to Wammers.

RangeRoller dt · Dec 17, 2019

I originally presumed my 95, being a LR, had a push rod engine. Imagine my amazement when I pulled the cam cover off

Many thanks to Wammers

Henry_b · Dec 17, 2019

RangeRoller dt said:
I originally presumed my 95, being a LR, had a push rod engine. Imagine my amazement when I pulled the cam cover off

Many thanks to Wammers

The clue is "cam cover"

RangeRoller dt · Dec 17, 2019

It doesn’t say that on the unit. Was the cam that give it away

RangeRoller dt · Dec 17, 2019

Big shiny lobey things where my rockers should be!

Datatek · Dec 18, 2019

RangeRoller dt said:
It doesn’t say that on the unit. Was the cam that give it away

The cam is visible from the oil filler cap, never topped it up with oil?

RangeRoller dt · Dec 18, 2019

It’s was a nice feeling when you realise it’s actually a lot better than you expected. 150,000 my cam still seems in good condition

Datatek · Dec 18, 2019

RangeRoller dt said:
It’s was a nice feeling when you realise it’s actually a lot better than you expected. 150,000 my cam still seems in good condition

It's not an old P38 V8

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