TwoAndAQuarter
Member
I've noticed lots of rads have additional outlets at the bottom. Am I right to say the auto model should NOT have these outlets? I've not worked on a manual example before, so assuming they are different.
I've noticed lots of rads have additional outlets at the bottom. Am I right to say the auto model should NOT have these outlets? I've not worked on a manual example before, so assuming they are different.
The manual passes the gearbox oil through a pipe at the bottom of the rad. Just ignore on the auto as that has its own gearbox oil rad.
I do and it has got me out of trouble a few time in SiberiaThis is true But I don't carry epoxy putty in my spares kit
I have one, you just use the spanner to close it up, it's for a manual (it's a pipe outlet) works fineI've noticed lots of rads have additional outlets at the bottom. Am I right to say the auto model should NOT have these outlets? I've not worked on a manual example before, so assuming they are different.
The RAD's split from hot/cold heat cycles at the stress point caused by the ridge across the top for the bleed.I can't find any alloy rads with baffles, so I've sourced a new Nissens one. The plastic top is not a good idea, but I suspect they only burst if the system is overpressurised in the first place.
I will of course check with a borescope to ensure the baffle is there!
That's new chains, new tensioners and guides, new radiator, new QH water pump and thermostat, new hoses, a hot pressure tested head, new oil cooler pipes, new o-rings, Elring head gasket, Elring stretch bolts (and whilst I'm at it, a new aircon condenser and dryer)...... should be nicely sorted for a good few years!
The RAD's split from hot/cold heat cycles at the stress point caused by the ridge across the top for the bleed.
The V8 RAD which doesn't have the ridge across the top does not split. It's got nothing to do with either overheating or over pressure.
As regards the alloy Direnza rad which was in the link that Stig1 put in his, he replied that it does have a baffle as one side gets hot and all is running well.
Ever known a salesman that knows anything about what they are selling?It was the sales team at Direnza who advised me their product does not have the internal baffle.
It was the sales team at Direnza who advised me their product does not have the internal baffle.
Ever known a salesman that knows anything about what they are selling?
That why i asked stig1 as the link he put up was direnza and there was no mention of the baffle then you posted there was not but his one works so there must be one fitted, if not then all there p38 diesel rads a scrap.
need to get direnza to do the marble test and report back
Direnza have responded advising that 'with the coolant system under pressure we can confirm the vehicles coolant flows through the radiator to be cool and a baffle is an unnecessary restriction in the system.'
I will leave it with yourselves to decide on whether that is sufficient......
The coolant will take the path of least resistance, with no baffle, that will be straight across the topDirenza have responded advising that 'with the coolant system under pressure we can confirm the vehicles coolant flows through the radiator to be cool and a baffle is an unnecessary restriction in the system.'
I will leave it with yourselves to decide on whether that is sufficient......
I can't find any alloy rads with baffles, so I've sourced a new Nissens one. The plastic top is not a good idea, but I suspect they only burst if the system is overpressurised in the first place.
I will of course check with a borescope to ensure the baffle is there!
That's new chains, new tensioners and guides, new radiator, new QH water pump and thermostat, new hoses, a hot pressure tested head, new oil cooler pipes, new o-rings, Elring head gasket, Elring stretch bolts (and whilst I'm at it, a new aircon condenser and dryer)...... should be nicely sorted for a good few years!