Did this job Wednesday on a friends FL1 battery earth off, take the weight of the engine with a trolley jack piece under the sump, manifold was already removed from a previous job, starter motor removed, top mount removed, jack up the engine a little to gain access to the blanking plug 17mm, remove the 21mm sprocket nut, insert first part of the special tool screw in fully then back it off at least three threads, insert second part and turn anticlockwise just to find the thread then turn clockwise to screw in, once you have it started screw in a little then tighten up the first part the rest should be ok.
Cheers buddy , not my issue though.
Repeatedly tried loosening part 1 of the tool. Makes 0 difference .
 
Update for anyone following
After failing to fit the LR tool part 2 .
Removed LR tool part 1
And tried to insert & screw part 2 in
Succes .. part 2 does screw in without part 1.
Now I'm assuming this is because my pump shaft is actually bent / misaligned
( a result of trying to undo my crankshaft pulley bolt with a impact gun & no locking tool ) And therfore it simply won't align while part 1 is inserted.
Assumptions on assumptions here but it makes sence.

Anyway being left with simply no alternative
I decided to remove the pump without LR tool part 1 .
Inserted part 2 and Tightened bolt to make contact with pump shaft ..succes it popped off.
Short lived succes though as the sprocket has moved and now clearly doesn't align.
I've tried to realign it and fit part 1 which holds the socket in place but without succes.
See attached picture of current alightnlment
I figure I'm into buying a new pump at this point and trying to fit it with the hopes it will pull itself into alignment. Any thoughts more than welcome 🙏
 
20250209_133829.jpg
 
Oh dear.
Sorry to be bearer of bad news, the reason the HP pulley has moved is due to tension on timing chain and valve springs etc.
You may be able to pull it back into line, but not without the tool fitting. Do you know why the tool didn't fit? Is the pump bent?

If that pulley moves too much you could loose timing which is a pig of a job as the timing chain cover cannot be removed without taking the cylinder head off. Hidden bolt !!

Also, never should you use an impact wrench on a TD4 fragile cast iron crankshaft, the crankshaft generally breaks just behind the oil seal inside the engine if you do.
 
Aye i feared as much but I'm going to give it a shot anyway, running on hopes and dreams, Where's there's a will there's a way and all that other b*ll*cks .
Still no idea why the tool wouldn't work other than the pump being bent itself? This fuel pump leak started immediately after I completed my crankshaft pulley so must be responsible . I firstly tried a blowtorch and a very powerful 1/2 gun
2000 nm breakaway ... never worked and in the end I used a 3/4 inch breaker bar set and 4ft pole . So I'm putting it down to the impact gun 🙃 don't follow youtube vids I guess guys
 
I would say it is virtually impossible to to bend the tapered end on the HPFP, the damage or fault as now occurred so as you say you now need to find a solution to realign the sprocket if that is at possible, the tool should not be used without part one, lesson here for other do not do it.

Aup6wMpl.jpg
1

wsmXtDHl.jpg
2

nHMON6Hl.jpg
3

tqKNfibl.jpg
4

LFjZxbtl.jpg
5

AN0sn04l.jpg
6

j9Cfn2ul.jpg
7

oDQMnEJl.jpg
8

25xGDq0l.jpg
9

GLwDf2ol.jpg
10

FbHT8M9l.jpg
11
Maybe try a round bar inside the cog to lift it while trying to add the part 1 of the special tool ?
 
I would say it is virtually impossible to to bend the tapered end on the HPFP, the damage or fault as now occurred so as you say you now need to find a solution to realign the sprocket if that is at possible, the tool should not be used without part one, lesson here for other do not do it.

Aup6wMpl.jpg
1

wsmXtDHl.jpg
2

nHMON6Hl.jpg
3

tqKNfibl.jpg
4

LFjZxbtl.jpg
5

AN0sn04l.jpg
6

j9Cfn2ul.jpg
7

oDQMnEJl.jpg
8

25xGDq0l.jpg
9

GLwDf2ol.jpg
10

FbHT8M9l.jpg
11
Maybe try a round bar inside the cog to lift it while trying to add the part 1 of the special tool ?
Aye had a go earlier with no luck , ideally need a second set of hands to screw part 1 in as I manoeuvre it . Could this be the fault of the tool ? Cheap ÂĢ17 for a set of 2 m47 & m57 . Still find it far too coincidental that the pump started to leak the second I did the crankshaft pulley .
Will you yous all posted on the sh*t show
 
Aye had a go earlier with no luck , ideally need a second set of hands to screw part 1 in as I manoeuvre it . Could this be the fault of the tool ? Cheap ÂĢ17 for a set of 2 m47 & m57 . Still find it far too coincidental that the pump started to leak the second I did the crankshaft pulley .
Will you yous all posted on the sh*t show

There is a warning on the workshop manual, that you should never remove the tool ( that keep the timing chain gear in place ) before installing the pump.

Once the gear is not maintained it will fall, there is no way to put it back in place.

I fear that your only solution is to remove the timing chain cover ... and puting back the new pump in place.

1739372577708.png


Can be done without removing the engine, but you will have very little place to do the work.
You will certainly need a timing chain kit ...

Once you get there you can inspect the timing chain, the guides, the oil pump ...
Better the put a new sealing on the sump, not only on timing chain cover.
 
Last edited:
Thinking about this, the automatic timing chain tensioner will probably have ratcheted to.tighten the chain and so lifting the cog now will be impossible.

Not sure if you can release the tensioner without timing cover off. Timing cover off requires head off.

Unless someone knows different !!
 
Thanks again lads always appreciate it!

There is a warning on the workshop manual, that you should never remove the tool ( that keep the timing chain gear in place ) before installing the pump.

Once the gear is not maintained it will fall, there is no way to put it back in place.

I fear that your only solution is to remove the timing chain cover ... and puting back the new pump in place.

View attachment 334979

Can be done without removing the engine, but you will have very little place to do the work.
You will certainly need a timing chain kit ...

Once you get there you can inspect the timing chain, the guides, the oil pump ...
Better the put a new sealing on the sump, not only on timing chain cover.
Thankfully it's not fallen much as such and more cockled. I did use half of the specalist tool (other half simply would not fit so was left with no choice ) as a result it's caught itself on LR 12 178 part 2. There is also some movement in said sprocket .. so it's not immovable.
I have heard of this exact same horror story happening at BT garage .. transit fuel pump removed without tool and realined again.
Fingers crossed ðŸĪž
 
Thinking about this, the automatic timing chain tensioner will probably have ratcheted to.tighten the chain and so lifting the cog now will be impossible.

Not sure if you can release the tensioner without timing cover off. Timing cover off requires head off.

Unless someone knows different !!
Yeah super sujestion matey , my brother sujested the same solution but I still currently haven't located the tensioner or if its accessible ! Again fingers crossed ðŸĪž

Update on the cause of this is the bearing failing in the fuel pump , which has caused the fuel pump shaft to sit out of line .
So not necessarily bent shaft but the same outcome.
If anyone has this problem , there is no fitting the tool! You either scrap the car or continue with the madness unfolding here I guess ðŸĪ·
 
Quick thought, only way round this without following my madness ...if your unlucky enough to experience this, get a grinder on the specialist tool which would give you some extra wiggle room 😉
 
Looks like tensioner is just spring and hydraulic pressure so should push back without having to access it. RAVE manual refers.

I have a spare tensioner in the workshop, will double check it pushes in tomorrow!!
 
So here's an idea.
Find a hollow tube that will just fit into the cog. Fit to outside of engine. Lift or get a length of wood under the tube (or drill a hole to suit) and jack it up to get pulley central.

Slam the hp pump into position putting the tapered shaft into the tube. When it enters the tube, a shove and push tube out to be replaced by the hp pump shaft.

Worth buying some tube the right size to save your engine.
 
So here's an idea.
Find a hollow tube that will just fit into the cog. Fit to outside of engine. Lift or get a length of wood under the tube (or drill a hole to suit) and jack it up to get pulley central.

Slam the hp pump into position putting the tapered shaft into the tube. When it enters the tube, a shove and push tube out to be replaced by the hp pump shaft.

Worth buying some tube the right size to save your engine.
Knight in shining armour you matey
Can't thank ya enough for your help!
Certainly give this a go at the weekend , Got my brother coming round so am hopeful we can ger it sorted.
I'll shamefully admit I've tried alsorts out there already, had a skipping rope threaded through the entire assembly last week trying to pull it into position ..couldn't quite do it on my own though .
I'll update to let you all know which crazy method worked for me 😉ðŸĪŠ
Thanks again tho Andy may well message ya about the pump ! Thanks !!
 
The tensioner can be held back by inserting a pin/nail but as above the cover needs to be removed.
tqKNfibl.jpg
1

aHyPMP4l.jpg
2

A tube about 3" /4" long the same diameter as the first part of the specialist tool might work, it would fit over part 2 and maybe level it for you ?

iav1GCXl.jpg
3

Because there would be no thread it may lift into place for you ?
AN0sn04l.jpg
4
 
New Fuel pump arrived and has been successfully fitted hallelujah 🙌
Absolute dream to fit.. no need for bars or skipping rope. Used the specialist tool including the bolt (part 2 &3) to move the sprocket and once moved and held in place by hand the fuel pump slid in with little reresistance.
Once in, I decided to retry the tool to see if it would now work ..
Low and behold it did., all parts fitted smoothly. So confirmation the fuel pump bearing had collapsed. If you have this issue the special tool wont fit as instructed so lock up the bottom end and push out your fuel pump with specialist tool part 2&3 .. no need for part 1 in my book .
Then replace .
Special thanks to @andyfreelandy for all the help and supplying the fuel pump!
And also a special thanks to the motto 'Where there's a will there's a way '
 

Similar threads