To be honest guys my head is up my arse with it ive no idea which way to turn at the moment what would you guys do honestly ???

Rob

I would step back and take a big deep breath. Then I would leave it for a couple of days and come back and look at it with fresh eyes. I was close to tears when my beautiful Disco was an MOT write off and I was told it was worth nothing but I persevered, found someone to do the work it required her for another 2yrs before trading her in. She is still on the road somewhere going strong :D So stay strong and don't give up yet.
 
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Going to buy the gearbox software and then go up again then read the faults it has. its not going to beat me! wish it was mine, its in showroom condition, near concorse standard. when running it will be worth over 4k easy.
 
Going to buy the gearbox software and then go up again then read the faults it has. its not going to beat me! wish it was mine, its in showroom condition, near concorse standard. when running it will be worth over 4k easy.

A man with a mission. Can't be beaten :D
 
Going to buy the gearbox software and then go up again then read the faults it has. its not going to beat me! wish it was mine, its in showroom condition, near concorse standard. when running it will be worth over 4k easy.

Doug you are a legend sir and a credit to this forum. You certainly love a challenge mate. ;)
 
Don't know if it means anything but this looked odd to me.

vin1.png


vin2.png


becm.png


Shouldn't the VINs match if it's locked?

G~
 
where is the fuel rail valve to test fuel pressure ???

The fuel inhibitor switch can i by pass that ??

Coil packs aint been replaced as yet Saint
Crank and cam sensors aint ethier...

Doug mentioned that the brown and green wire from the fusebox to BECM i shorted to try and trace the path that the that wire take through the EBCM and what other components it powers as it comes out, ie which plugs it feeds and where do they go etc... but its not an eas task with no wiring diagram and no idea what your doing lol....

On the p38 there isn't a valve on the fuel rail, you have to find a joint and crack it open using a couple of scanners, but ensure you use a rag to catch any spray that may come out. But you say the plugs are wet when you get them out so I assume there is fuel pressure.

Do you have the RAVE manuals as this would have all the electrical diagrams in to allow you to trace the wires.

Take a few deep breathes and we will get to the bottom of it. Douglas is a top man who won't be beaten by the sounds of it!

We are all here rooting for you 100%
 
Absolutely. Chin up.

I have been knocking around car forums for 8 or so years now, for many different makes. And never, not even once, have I seen such support for the cause as you are getting here. I mean, we are page 25 and counting here.

Doug is quite obviously a legend, and looks pretty determined to get to the bottom of this. Take a couple days off, forget about it, and come back refreshed and ready to get to the bottom of it.

You'll be almost a P38 expert by the time your back on the road, with what sounds like a VERY nice motor.
 
Doug was quearying in the park screen capture the AUTOBOX X/REVERSE says GRN he says that is saying in park that its in reverse ??? as it should be showing 12v im only passing on the infor he has told me ive no idea what this means etc sorry...

The "reverse" signal from this switch is only used when the vehicle has a manual transmission.
 
Hi chaps i was comtemplating starting a new tidyier post but have decided against it now due to your great comments etc i would like to remind you all of the story so far to save people going back to the start...

I bought the car 4 weeks ago and drove it back from down south 240 miles return journey with no issues what so ever of any type rangie was perfect... Ther next 2/3 days was spent making it as mint as possible still no problems at all,, then i drove it ten miles to my mates to take him for a spin out in it, driving along the road all the lights and horns started blasting for no reason, after getting the car home i did some investigation work and made a BOOB... this is the criticle information now following...

I removed the fuse box to check inside for corrosion it looked ok and i refitted it, rangie started fine after fuse box removal and refitting but still with the lights problem evident, someone else mentioned unplug the alarm siren, i did and the fault was still there lights and horns still blasting, but car still started and was running fine...NOW in a fit of daftness when i tried to re plug the alarm siren in i moved the fuse box as it was unbolted and the BROWN/GREEN 10mm stud touched earth and caused some sparking as the battery was still connected, (SCHOOL BOY ERROR )at this point the battery was diconnected as it had been at all other times and fusebox secured, then battery reconnected i checked all the fuses and wiring i could see in the engine bay at this point nothing looked melted or no smell or anything all seemed fine...

Tried to start it and the engine turned over but would not start (only since i shorted the the 10mm terminal out) it had been running 5 mins earlier...

Now Doug has been great he been here three times now and this is where we stand...

OK
1.. £50 worth of fuel in tank half full
2.. EBCM has been replaced and tested working fine
3.. Replacement fusebox tried and still non start (original refitted)
4.. Replacement tested ecu fitted and coded in today still non start
5.. Tested for a spark plug in lead plug earthed no spark at all nothing
6.. Plugs were damp and smelt of fuel

So where are we now ???????????

Doug has tried all he can and has saved me some screen captures from his diagnostic equipment to try and upload on here but he has one concern which is this...

GEARBOX error is coming up when we try and crank the engine it cranks in neutral and park, but dont start in ethier but turns over.. he has looked at the screens on his kit and one of the boxes is showing that when the lever is in park its showing in the box on screen is in reverse ??? ive no idea what this means to be fair...

As it stands today as welll ive tested the wires to the coil packs and i have got the following two coil packs both got 3 wire plugs

1. red wire = no live or earth ??(no live or earth)
2. white wire = 12v ignition on live
3. blue wire = nothing at all (no live or earth)

so the summery is this, it ran and started fine till i shorted out the brown and green 10mm stud on the bottom of the fuse box, the new EBCM has fixed the lights issue and horns so thats sorted but still no spark, ive had ecu replaced and coded in still no spark, and tried another fusebox and still no spark..

Seriously though i dont know where to go now, im going to start compiling offers for the car as is via PM onl please make a bid and i will see what happens, im going to speak to some range rover dismantlers too this week see where i stand value wise, 5ok range rovers as clean as this must be good as a breaker...

I would however still like to fix it but im out my depth now to be fair.....


The gearbox xyz switch indications shown from the screen dumps are correct.If P and N were not correct then the motor would not crank.
You mentioned that the replacement engine ECU has been programmed to the BECM,yet on a motronic you cannot reset the the code in the engine ecu,you have to set it in the BECM .The screen dumps dont show what the EMS code has been set to as the complete page is not shown.
 
Ouch, just looked at the cost of the camshaft sensors!! (£116.66 + Vodka&Tonic from Island) I had a problem with one on an MG2.5 V6 a few years ago, would not start when warm, full stop. Changed the CPS and never had a problem (which incidently was cheaper at the time to buy for a gaylander than the MG, but same part :) ). But, can appreciate not one to 'try' at that cost without checks first. I use my P38 everyday, so sadly can't take mine off to send up as a test. Anyone got a known good CPS they can lend out???

I've said before yours looks just like mine, and I paid £4.5K a year ago, so it is worth keeping after it. Even if you leave it for a few weeks to get your sanity back a bit :) I don't think you said what you paid, but no-one wants to lose that sort of money!!!
 
Absolutely. Chin up.

I have been knocking around car forums for 8 or so years now, for many different makes. And never, not even once, have I seen such support for the cause as you are getting here. I mean, we are page 25 and counting here.

Doug is quite obviously a legend, and looks pretty determined to get to the bottom of this. Take a couple days off, forget about it, and come back refreshed and ready to get to the bottom of it.

You'll be almost a P38 expert by the time your back on the road, with what sounds like a VERY nice motor.
Here, Here....

This is why LandyZone is the best Forum on the internet, not just for Landys and Rangies, but for any marque....

Heed advice and don't do anything rash Neo, it doesn't deserve a trip to a breakers.....keep that chin up.
 
Well, what a great team of guys !
Hats off to you all for all the solid help.
Here's hoping that Neo gets to get the Rangie back on the road.
Well, it won't be for the lack of support and trying that's for sure.
Wish I could offer some thing but any way.
And I don't even own a LR.

vette
 
I'm curious that all the screen shots show an engine temperature of 253C, if it were that hot I think the ECU would shut it down?
 
I hope Doug has been getting lots of tea and cake :)

Rob, as is repeated stick at it. The motor is lovely, and as has been said by the time it's running you'll be an expert on em :)
 
Ah, I see. I misunderstood that his and your more advanced electronic kit could alter those types of values.

G~

Never tried as it's pointless, the BECM can't read the VIN on the plate;) Probably can only be done with the direct access module which I do not have on account of the cost and not needing it to date:)
 
Saintv8= i am 100% sure ive got fuel pressure to be fair but i am going to try it again tomorrow under cranking with a pipe cracked off as you say back to basics i think..ive got rave but no idea about tracing wires and stuff to be fair...

Ive also ordered a brand new dealer crank sensor too at £56 i am also convinced it wont be that but ive been wrong before and i would be more ****ed if i sold it for nowt and it turned out to be a £50 fix etc..

Doug is a proper top bloke one in a million not sure why he is so keen mind as my enthusiasum is now rock bottom to be fair...

XS2man= I totally agree with you mate, you can tell by the support on here its a cracking forum i looked on here last night at 10.30 pm and the range rover section had 110 veiwers current then.. i cant thank you guys enough for all the help so far....

John P38 = yeah the EBCM was set to the new ecu code 1622 or something it so are you saying the readings you can see on the pages look correct ????

marcinbrighton = just ordered a genuine dealer crank sensor from main dealers and its £52.59 inc vat so ive ordered one

strange days = thanks for the support mate.....
 
This is my plan...

going to test again for fuel im sure ive got fuel though to engine 99% but still going to check...i know for sure ive no spark though 100% ive stuck a good plug in lead and eathed body of plug to engine i also tried with a jump lead to plug body to engine lift bracket to make sure i got a good earth return etc...

Ive ordered a new crank sensor to be fair i dont think its that but its another cheap £60 part thats worth a try

Coil packs x 2 i cant see those both being goosed can you guys ???

the cruise control switch out the pedal is disconnected as its snapped and a new one has arrived today i cant see that doing anything ethier lol always hope lol...

the temp as datatek says 256 deg shown in all the screen snap shots (anyone shed any light on that )

Lastly can the fuel interupt thing in the footwell cause no spark ???? i suppose pulling carpet in and out might of triggered it but i cant see that ethier to be fair ??

Is there anything at all people can think off that it still might be as im thinking its heading to be an auto electrians job now for just get shot as is and cut my loses to be fair...
 
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Given a gearbox fault is reported can someone with a similar motor post the values for their gearbox? Are any different?

It may be the fault isn't even related but I'd be tempted to start there if it says there is an error.

J

INFORMATION BELOW MEANS NOTHING TO ME BUT DOUG HAS ASKED ME TO PUT IT UP FOR YOU CLEVER PEOPLE TO LOOK AT LOL...

New ecu fitted
ROBnewecu.jpg

ROB11.jpg

ROB10.jpg

In reverse screen below
ROB9inreverse.jpg

In park screen below
ROB8inpark.jpg

In neutral screen below
ROB7inneutral.jpg

in drive screen below
ROB6indrive.jpg

ROB3.jpg

ROB2.jpg

ROB1.jpg
 

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