Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Replace with a digital read out. You can’t tell if they over/under charge with the LR one
I want the original. I know it is not as good as modern ones but it what has always been fitted. I don’t know if it amps or volts. I know it reads higher when the engine is running so assumed it was volts.Replace with a digital read out. You can’t tell if they over/under charge with the LR one
It’s volts.I want the original. I know it is not as good as modern ones but it what has always been fitted. I don’t know if it amps or volts. I know it reads higher when the engine is running so assumed it was volts.
I may have a blank plate if you would be interested in a trade.It’s volts.
Mine is disconnected…. If only I had a blank plate
Ok. Find the blank or what’s fitted at the moment ?I may have a blank plate if you would be interested in a trade.
My old one that is now very melted had table on as well because I was always very very careful with it. I was expecting to have to fit the raptor metal version.Gawd ! One with tabs,
A later style temperature gauge ?After some trouble with dinitrol application (thread here) I have now completed painting and filling the bulkhead with dinitrol. Hopefully the excess will clean off the visible bits easily enough on Monday once it has cured a little. I am awaiting an order full of little plastic inserts and seals etc. but have the week off so I am hoping to get the new bulkhead built up with the parts from the spare one and maybe even get it fitted tot he vehicle.
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After a little panel beating (not too much) I have managed to straighter the very very bent but virtually free drivers wing enough that I am happy enough with it for now. In time I may replace it with a better one but vehicle back on the road a running is a higher priority than pristine cosmetics. Although this will be the worst panel on the vehicle the rest of it is work used rather than straight and cossetted. will try and get some top coat on it this week as well but the primer went on ok and give and idea of what the finish will be like. I know I could fill the panel and it would improve but the filler would be fairly thick in places and likely to then crack when it is being stood on etc. in the course of daily use.
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I have also managed to get a speedo that is nearly correct, so i am now looking for a cheap mains powered drill (all mine are battery these days) so that I can add about 35k to this speedo. At 100mph that's only 14.5 solid days of running the mileage up with an electric drill! But most importantly look what the replacement brinicle has!!
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I am still after a bonnet, I have a several on enquires on facebook but am awaiting more pictures of the underside so nothing firm yet. Everyone seems to like showing off the fact that is is the wrong colour and needs painting rather than showing the condition of the steel frame that rusts!A later style temperature gauge ?
you still after a bonnet???
Ok. I spotted a 90 bonnet lip in the spares pile. Will dig out tommorow & send some photosI am still after a bonnet, I have a several on enquires on facebook but am awaiting more pictures of the underside so nothing firm yet. Everyone seems to like showing off the fact that is is the wrong colour and needs painting rather than showing the condition of the steel frame that rusts!
I also forgot to check today if I have a gauge blank on the replacement bulkhead. I will get back to you tomorrow on that one.
That would be very much appreciated, but there is no immediate rush. The bonnet will be off for most of the rebuild sorting the bulkhead and engine!Ok. I spotted a 90 bonnet lip in the spares pile. Will dig out tommorow & send some photos
Iv had a few busy weekends & not gone near it
That looks ideal and is probably in better condition than my old bonnet even before the fire damage. Surface rust is not a problem as it will all be treated and painted anyway. The bonnet striker that isn't fitted just screws in doesn't it, I have never removed or played with one?Any good???
Surface rust to the 1 edge. Small dents/ bends. Nothing serious
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Yep the bonnet pin screws in.That looks ideal and is probably in better condition than my old bonnet even before the fire damage. Surface rust is not a problem as it will all be treated and painted anyway. The bonnet striker that isn't fitted just screws in doesn't it, I have never removed or played with one?
If that is available I that's great. PM incoming!
excellent nice and easy to fit then and something else to add to the parts list. My current one has been ground down at some point so although works with the current bonnet would probably want replacing rather than reusing.Yep the bonnet pin screws in.