Looking good!

What is the grille cable-tied over the spotlights on the bull bar in the last pic?

You mean this one?

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It is just a piece of mesh made out of 3mm steel bar that is then powder coated (and i then painted it black which has slowly flaked off). I picked up a 2m square sheet of it to create guards for the spotlights on the bullbars. it is just held on with heavy duty cable ties which are there to keep it in place any impact will be pushing against it and in that case the bullbar itself will supports it. It prevents my (a long time ago) very expensive Hella spotlights getting broken on branches on overgrown lanes, or close hedge work at the field margins.

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Fitted one to the TD5 I am borrowing and friend has one fitted to his as well all form the same piece of square mash. It might not be necessary on the td5 as they are small led lights that are set further back and more robust than the large diameter glass lens of the hella's but part of it is it is what I am used to and for me is what makes it look "right" and like it is mine. (I replaced the gray seat covers with black ones for the same reason, it just didn't feel right)

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Less positive progress today. I began stripping down the spare complete bulkhead an was not happy with some of the findings.
The loom looks like it has been cut about a fair bit so I will need to carefully inspect and repair that or see if I can find a good replacement at a sensible price. I have looked at new ones but auto sparks say in big letter they do not use the original fuse holders so i need to find out what they use instead.

The lower dash is in very poor shape as is the wiper motor cover which is annoying as it is one of the parts that I need. my fire damaged one is structurally better than this one. I have also noticed on the plastic binicle mount what looks like melting (on the replacement not my one!) any idea what might have caused this? No other signs of melting or fire damage on the replacement. I need to check the raptor website and see if you can get a metal version of this.

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I have a couple of question regarding the steering column on a separate thread (link) and annoyingly looks like I need to find a replacement old style upper column to be able to retain my nice thin four spoke steering wheel rather than use the newer soft fat ones. so something else for the ever growing parts list.

And on a separate note the wiper spindles are not what I was expecting. They have a threaded end rather than a shaped end for a clamp screw on the adapters (pic below). Are these a later version? I need one new wiper arm anyway so it is not a problem if I need a pair just need to make sure I get ones that are suitable and will fit this.

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Less positive progress today. I began stripping down the spare complete bulkhead an was not happy with some of the findings.

And on a separate note the wiper spindles are not what I was expecting. They have a threaded end rather than a shaped end for a clamp screw on the adapters (pic below). Are these a later version? I need one new wiper arm anyway so it is not a problem if I need a pair just need to make sure I get ones that are suitable and will fit this.

View attachment 256612


My two 1994 300tdi’s have the push on spindles while my 2005 td5 has threaded ends
 
Yup, those wiper spindles are the later ones with a nut to hold the wiper on, as fitted to my TD5. I think I prefer them as it's a more positive location. It doesn't really matter what you fit, you've just got to remember to buy wipers with the matching kind of hole in them. The main problem I've found is that the gear wheel can come loose on the spindle. Whilst everything's apart it might be worth putting a couple of dabs of weld where the spindle joins the gear wheel.
 
Yup, those wiper spindles are the later ones with a nut to hold the wiper on, as fitted to my TD5. I think I prefer them as it's a more positive location. It doesn't really matter what you fit, you've just got to remember to buy wipers with the matching kind of hole in them. The main problem I've found is that the gear wheel can come loose on the spindle. Whilst everything's apart it might be worth putting a couple of dabs of weld where the spindle joins the gear wheel.
Thank you I will investigate that. I was planning on using the whole motor and rack assembly form the replacement bulkhead as it is will note require the testing and cleaning the fire damaged on will. A new pair of arms to match shoul dnot break the bank and it all looks to be in good condition. Is there any tell tale for the spindle breaking loose or is it a weld of precaution just in case?
 
Thank you I will investigate that. I was planning on using the whole motor and rack assembly form the replacement bulkhead as it is will note require the testing and cleaning the fire damaged on will. A new pair of arms to match shoul dnot break the bank and it all looks to be in good condition. Is there any tell tale for the spindle breaking loose or is it a weld of precaution just in case?

I've had the wheel come loose on the spindle on nearly brand new ones (Britpart of course), so it's hard to predict. They only seem to be staked or peened into place. A temporary repair can be effected by going round the join between spindle and gear wheel with a centre punch or cold chisel and roughening things up a bit, so the small divots of metal provide a bit of friction. However the last time I treated myself to some new ones I noticed that the wheel had been welded to the spindle. What a good idea, I thought to myself. I must go through some of my old ones and do the same. I haven't quite got round to it yet though.
 
Having fitted the bulkhead todays task was trying to get it positioned correctly against the rear tub by refitting the doors and using them against the tub to make sure it is vertical and the correct distance.
While doing this i found another problem:

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This is the mounting for the clutch pipe on the passenger footwell and it is fouling on the exhaust. Having checked my old bulkhead the bracket is in the same position and the pipe was fitted to it but there must have been enough clearance not only to have the pipe in place but also to fit and remove the unions. Any suggestions? Does anyone have a disco 200tdi conversion and can show me their clutch pipe routing?
 
Having fitted the bulkhead todays task was trying to get it positioned correctly against the rear tub by refitting the doors and using them against the tub to make sure it is vertical and the correct distance.
While doing this i found another problem:

View attachment 257384

This is the mounting for the clutch pipe on the passenger footwell and it is fouling on the exhaust. Having checked my old bulkhead the bracket is in the same position and the pipe was fitted to it but there must have been enough clearance not only to have the pipe in place but also to fit and remove the unions. Any suggestions? Does anyone have a disco 200tdi conversion and can show me their clutch pipe routing?
I do and can take pics tomorrow for you.
 
Also calling all fluid/lubricant experts. Does anyone have any idea what this is:

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I found it on the back of a shelf at the farm I am doing the work at and it has clearly not been used in a very long time. I forgot my copper grease and was looking for some grease. This is very sticky and has the consistency of golden syrup. I have cleaned the label but it still does not give me any idea what is actually is and it should be used for. Is it just a liquid grease a bit like the one shot used in swivels?
 
I do and can take pics tomorrow for you.
That would be very much appreciated if you could. I will be very annoyed if I need to move the bracket having just fitted the bulkhead! But my old one seems to have used this bracket so I am not sure why things do not line up now (other than the fact it is an old land rover!)
 

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