Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
You sure the splines missing?
Check the make end and you may find a larger spline for locating
Update please
Check the make end and you may find a larger spline for locating
Update please
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
You sure the splines missing?
Check the make end and you may find a larger spline for locating
Update please
quite right! Cept not a big spline but has two green lines down the inside.It looked like there where chunks of metal remaining but was actually just muck!
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Check the nose bearing/transfer box for play while the props off. & any play in the diff rotation.
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Shall do. I check the TX recently and the rear is an LSD, spins around a touch but not much at all.
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Well thats one prop shaft rebuilt. Bit of a pain but not too difficult.
AFrame is being a total pig. Everythings off but I cant get the bolts out of the fulcrum! Even tho ive cut both ends off
Stupid me also cut all the bolts off without having new ones readt had to run down to Gigglepin to get more!
Saw the beast -
AFrame is being a total pig. Everythings off but I cant get the bolts out of the fulcrum! Even tho ive cut both ends off
Stupid me also cut all the bolts off without having new ones readt
had to run down to Gigglepin to get more!Saw the beast -
When I did mine it needed a bit of head and a bath overnight in a bucket of diesel, the heat loosened everything up and the diesel seeped in no problem, next day put the nuts back on and slapped em a few times and job jobbed.
I was very tempted by the adjustable BJ but for the same price I could buy 3 std ones and replace as and when.
That's a special looking motor, surprised you didn't get the chequebook out
I was very tempted by the adjustable BJ but for the same price I could buy 3 std ones and replace as and when.
That's a special looking motor, surprised you didn't get the chequebook out
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
When I did mine it needed a bit of head and a bath overnight in a bucket of diesel, the heat loosened everything up and the diesel seeped in no problem, next day put the nuts back on and slapped em a few times and job jobbed.
I was very tempted by the adjustable BJ but for the same price I could buy 3 std ones and replace as and when.
That's a special looking motor, surprised you didn't get the chequebook out
Have you seen the cost of diesel?
Haha thats Gigglepins U4 racer, LSX V8. Bloody impressive machine!
Right so ive got one side of the a frame off but the bolts sheered and are still stuck!!! Tried drilling them out snapped all my bits
Bucket of diesel's looking cheap now
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Bucket of diesel's looking cheap now
Cheaper & easier to use copper slip when rebuilding. You know your going to have to change it again within 10 years
neilly
Well-Known Member
I know the feeling, tried replacing the dodgy top rear lower link bush and found the lower bush bolts on the axle were seized in the sleeves. Getting the hacksaw treatment this weekend.
Cheers
Cheers
Have you seen the cost of diesel?
Haha thats Gigglepins U4 racer, LSX V8. Bloody impressive machine!
Right so ive got one side of the a frame off but the bolts sheered and are still stuck!!! Tried drilling them out snapped all my bits
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Wait till you build a racer and this is a monthly job...
Unless you rose joint these
Unless you rose joint these
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
Feel you pain buddy, soon you will start dreaming of miniature plasma cutters lolFair point.
Though im about to give up totally. Everything was done and in until i have to put the bolts in. One fine the other wouldnt fit. Turns out the steel center tube and ****ing bent
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
I prefer anti fret ceramic paste, i find copper slip abrasive and does dry out etc.Cheaper & easier to use copper slip when rebuilding. You know your going to have to change it again within 10 years
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Wellll.its done!!! Luckily one of the center tubes from the old LR bushes was intact and *just* about fit!
Its not perfectly done but it is done. If it has to be done again a fecking garage are doing it!
The worst and most frustrating job ive ever done. Glad to see the back of it!
Its not perfectly done but it is done. If it has to be done again a fecking garage are doing it!
The worst and most frustrating job ive ever done. Glad to see the back of it!
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
I did intend to do a step by step for this but the sheer annoyance of this job drove me insane so it is what it is lol
Jack up the rear, youll need blocks & something to extend a trolley jack higher or a hi-lift. Must be jacked up to reveal the castle nut, undo with a 30mm spanner.
No for the hard part! Sometimes this is easy sometimes like this time it will make you wish for death. Mine where rock solid so had to cut them off. Which didnt go to plan, so I had to remove the bracket which holds the A-Frame to the chassis. Which didnt go to plan.... So I had to cut all of those off too. Also helps to have new bolts at hand before you start cutting! I forgot luckily Gigglepin had a few in stock
Finally off! Now to split the A-Fram and remove the bushes. As per the rest of this thread did NOT GO TO PLAN!
No matter what I tried the bolts would not come out. Broke my sledge hammer, blow torch ran out of gas, even snapped a cold chisle! Though Id try the pillar drill, 5 drill bits later and through the other side nothing. Not even a micron of movement!
Gave up in the end. Was just impossible with the tools I had, maybe a 10 tonne press would have done it... Luckily a mate had an a A-Frame he was saving, sold it to me for £50 with bolts removed! New Gwyn Lewis wide angle balljoint & fulcrum fitted, finally Along with a set of Flo-Flex bushes (Don't require a press to fit).
To top it off one of the bolts has well and truely rusted itself to the chassis and WILL NOT MOVE. It's damaged but there hopefully it will work loose and I'll be able to replace it.
Finally done. I don't fancy doing another!
Jack up the rear, youll need blocks & something to extend a trolley jack higher or a hi-lift. Must be jacked up to reveal the castle nut, undo with a 30mm spanner.
No for the hard part! Sometimes this is easy sometimes like this time it will make you wish for death. Mine where rock solid so had to cut them off. Which didnt go to plan, so I had to remove the bracket which holds the A-Frame to the chassis. Which didnt go to plan.... So I had to cut all of those off too. Also helps to have new bolts at hand before you start cutting! I forgot
luckily Gigglepin had a few in stock Finally off! Now to split the A-Fram and remove the bushes. As per the rest of this thread did NOT GO TO PLAN!
No matter what I tried the bolts would not come out. Broke my sledge hammer, blow torch ran out of gas, even snapped a cold chisle!
Though Id try the pillar drill, 5 drill bits later and through the other side nothing. Not even a micron of movement!Gave up in the end. Was just impossible with the tools I had, maybe a 10 tonne press would have done it... Luckily a mate had an a A-Frame he was saving, sold it to me for £50 with bolts removed! New Gwyn Lewis wide angle balljoint & fulcrum fitted, finally
Along with a set of Flo-Flex bushes (Don't require a press to fit).To top it off one of the bolts has well and truely rusted itself to the chassis and WILL NOT MOVE. It's damaged but there hopefully it will work loose and I'll be able to replace it.
Finally done. I don't fancy doing another!
