Fair bit done!

PAS pump changed and bled. Much easier than expected with help from a mate. Still got to road test it tho

New AP slave fitted and bled. Hopefully this one wont leak!

Wiring for the beacons & rear bar about half done, just got to be connected to the switches.

Few more bits left but im rather hungover today so ill carry on tomorrow!
 
Thats a long weekend of working over... Would have been done quicker but you know its been sunny so had to go for a sunny beer! :cool::cool:

Though it is all done! Rear bar wired in, beacons wired in, high level brake lights wired in, clutch slave changed and bled (AP unit failed after 500miles :rolleyes:, Shop4auto replaced within 24hours!), PAS pump changed & bled (came in a blue bag :eek::eek: but was branded). Steering is much lighter now!

Very happy! All the switches light up on sidelight and all have the red ON slit! Just the fog left to be moved (got a sparky mate to sort that, its beyond me) and build an T/C off switch. I could do with tidying up and streamlining the fuse box now but not for a while, though it is a bit of a mess in there!

20180507_152857_resized.jpg

High Levels look good I think, Bowler-esque though I went for a pair instead of quads, can just about see the beacons flashing
20180507_160750_resized.jpg


Rear bar from WOW LED the bar does seem to be better quality than others I've seen and used. Eventually it will be on a keyfob remote but the wiring is tricky!

20180507_152906_resized.jpg

Bit hard to catch the beacons flashing but theres a hint there!
20180507_152916_resized.jpg


As for voltage/current draw with the engine running everything off reads 14.4 - 14.6v. with the LED bars on & beacons drops to 14.1v add the lightforce spots and it drops to 13.4v, they are a big draw!
 
You've been busy ain't you! Looks great dude

Did you know you've been quoted on a certain rust proofing ad in a certain landy publication?
20180506_162534.jpg


Congrats!:confused::D

Post edited to remove identifying photo
 
Last edited:
1988smithy said:
You've been busy ain't you! Looks great dude

Did you know you've been quoted on a certain rust proofing ad in a certain landy publication?
View attachment 148577

Congrats!:confused::D

Post edited to remove identifying photo
Click to expand...

Deary me! Looks like he really trawls the web! :confused: Would have been nice if he PMd asking for permission to be polite...

To clarify it was sorted out soon as I mentjoned it, free of charge and not had an issue since.

Thanks! And yes I have been busy! Very happy too :D

Had a look at the rear bar in the dark. Its bright. VERY bright im impressed for £40!
 
Wooo D44 bumper is at the powder coaters! Should be delivered next week :)

Buzzweld 2k FXLiner ordered too, give the bumper some added protection

Once it arrives I can see if I can easily fit one of the boly in A Bars, best would be if I could fit a similar one to the bar I have now so I can keep my Lightforces!
 
A frame knocking is getting worse now so Gywn Lewis wide angle ball joint + fulcrum ordered (+bolts!) and a new set of FloFlex bushes (they work well and dont need a 10t press)

That plus new rear prop UJs should remove some of tranny slack Ive got.

Now to find some actual time to do so...
 
bankz5152 said:
A frame knocking is getting worse now so Gywn Lewis wide angle ball joint + fulcrum ordered (+bolts!) and a new set of FloFlex bushes (they work well and dont need a 10t press)

That plus new rear prop UJs should remove some of tranny slack Ive got.

Now to find some actual time to do so...
Click to expand...

On my list too for the summer, take some pics when you do yours?
 
KISSMYAURA said:
On my list too for the summer, take some pics when you do yours?
Click to expand...

Shall do. Pretty straight forward and 100x easier if you just cut all the bolts off haha

Castle nut is a bit of a pain got to jack up the rear chassis/xmember and support it to gain decent access.
 
bankz5152 said:
That plus new rear prop UJs should remove some of tranny slack Ive got.
Click to expand...

I found the A frame was a PoP , bit I did replace the whole bracket with a new wide angle adjustable and greaseable joint in it.:p

How bad are you Uj's if they are giving tranny slack?

I change my Uj's as soon as I feel even the slightest slop in them.

Cheers
 
neilly said:
I found the A frame was a PoP , bit I did replace the whole bracket with a new wide angle adjustable and greaseable joint in it.:p

How bad are you Uj's if they are giving tranny slack?

I change my Uj's as soon as I feel even the slightest slop in them.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Just getting the bolts out is a pain! Same unit from Gywn Lewis!

About 1 - 2mm slop so I want to change them, not sure if that is the source of the slack but certainly a componant.

Fronts are rock solid.
 
bankz5152 said:
I would say so yeah. Only one end has play but may as well change both while its off.
Click to expand...

Ok, I change mine if I feel even the slightest l'ill slop in the joint, then put them in the emergency spares bag for off the tarmac fixes if ever needed.. I would have thought 2mm give would have been a noisy vibrating thing of joy to behold at speed and during gear changes.

Cheers
 
Had a day off so thought Id rebuild the rear prop. Whilst doing so I think i found the source of the tranny slack. A missing spline

Anyonr know if you can just buy the sliding member? Or is it a new prop job.

20180521_074717.jpg
 
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